MTU_327PC Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 With the last two range sessions I've been starting to have problems with my 327 Performance Center. I mostly reload for it, but had some factory ammo sitting around. First off it won't fire factory Winchester ammo (It'll fire single action, but not double action). I figured maybe the double action is a bit light, but I figured no big deal since I load with Federal primers anyways. So today I wanted to Chrono some Hornady LEVERevolution 140 grainers to make sure they'll be up to par for deer season if the bullets I wanted to reload for it didn't arrive in time. First four shots fired no problem (and with great accuracy), but the next 3 rounds didn't go off. So I tried them in single action, and of course nothing happens. Being pissed off at this point I loaded up some factory Blazers, and they don't fire single or double action. I proceeded to take the grips off to play with the tensioner screw, and when the grips were off, a 1/16" x 1/4" rod falls out. My question is what is it? It can be seen in the picture next to the gun. After playing with the tensioning screw I managed to fire off two more Hornady rounds and then nothing. Just to make sure the gun was completely useless, I loaded some some .38 handloads with federal primers, and only every other one fired. Some with single action and some with double. Again my question is does anyone know what that little pin is for? I'm waiting to call Smith on Monday to have them send me box so they can fix this thing. So far I'm not too pleased with my purchase. I wanted a really nice revolver, but ended up buying a club. Maybe I should of listened to my dad and bough a Ruger to throw around. Thanks for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 That looks like the firing pin retaining pin. If that's what it is, you can take off the sideplate and stick it back in it's hole near the top of the hammer. If the firing pin was coming out the back too far sometimes because of not being retained, it could bind up and cause misfires. If you decide to sell your rock for cheap, let me know. Best Regards, Warren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Hey can I cut and paste this to all the "Revolvers never jam" experts ? Is that soemthing to do with the lock in the frame ? or maybe the firing pin retaining pin ? Look here :http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=1980z686-3 If that doesnt work go to mainpage and follow the clickable schematics links, they dont list a 327 but there are quite a few other diagrams, process of what is missing from your gun should help you figure it out, I am thing the hand stock pin or the rebound slide pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 (edited) The lock has never caused me a problem unless the hammer is cut off halfway like Camoney does. Then there is nothing to hold it in place. I only shoot S&W Revolvers. I have only had one time in 30 years one quit on me in a match when the hand pivot pin broke. I have won or moved up in several matches when someone's auto jammed. Edited October 17, 2009 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 I pulled the sideplate off and looking through some schematics to figure this thing out. I'm not the best with revolvers. Thanks for the replies though, I think I might be able to make some headway on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 I think I found where the pin goes. There's a hole that's at the very back corner of the grip frame. According the schematics link ( slightly different gun than mine) its the "stock pin". This would explain why it fell out when I pulled the grips off. But it wouldn't explain why I was having problems before I pulled the grips. I don't know enough about revolvers to fiddle around with it too much. I had seen the firing pin retaining pin, and that seems to still be in place at the top. Thanks for the replies guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Check and see how far the firing pin sticks out when the hammer is all the way down. You may need an extended firing pin. Those can be had from Cylinder & Slide or Brownell's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Right now I'm having a problem putting the slide plate on. It came off pretty stiff of course, but it only goes in partially. I can get the top of the side plate slid in and the part that's over the trigger, but the rest only goes in partially. I don't want to bash on it, but maybe it needs a firm push to go back in? And by looking at the gun now, the firing pin is recessed into the channel by close to a 1/16". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 When you put the gun back together, the hammer block (little flag like thing) has to be all the way up on it's pin on the rebound slide, which is right behind the trigger. Then put the top of the sideplate over the hammer block without disturbing it's position and lower the rest of the sideplate down flat. If it doesn't go fairly easily, raise it back up and see if the hammer block moved and try again. The extra length firing pin is only .012 to .015 longer than the original. A lot of times a few thousandths makes all the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Right now I'm having a problem putting the slide plate on. It came off pretty stiff of course, but it only goes in partially. I can get the top of the side plate slid in and the part that's over the trigger, but the rest only goes in partially. I don't want to bash on it, but maybe it needs a firm push to go back in? And by looking at the gun now, the firing pin is recessed into the channel by close to a 1/16". The hammer block is not lined up properly with the side plate. Look at where it is supposed to lay on the inside of the side plate, you'll see... Tap it in with a rubber mallet once you think you have it lined up. It might take a few tries... Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 I see what you guys are talking about. I haven't got it yet, but still working on it. I'll have to talk to smith about a different firing pin and see if they'll do to make everything right. I have a feeling they will. Otherwise I'll have someone else do it. Again thanks for all the help. I've tried other forums but no one really has anything to say. Thanks, Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Smith won't do anything about the firing pin. You will have to get your own and change it yourself (it's easy) or have a local gunsmith change it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 I'll ask to make sure. If that's the case then I might have some other work done to it. I love the smoothness of the action, but I think I want a bit more out of it. Again thanks for all the help. I'm glad I joined this forum. I've been stalking around for tips the last couple months, but figured I'd better join up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Welcome to the party! Glad we could help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 I'll ask to make sure. If that's the case then I might have some other work done to it. I love the smoothness of the action, but I think I want a bit more out of it. Tell Carmoney what you want, he'll give you a good deal and has fast turn around time. Carmonize! - check out his dealer thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Carefull with that side plate. If everything inside is lined up right you ought to be able to snap it in with your thumbs. Firing pin block is usualy the thing that makes it not want to go home. Taking it apart don't pry. Take all the screws out stocks off and wack the grip frame with a wooden rod. Something like the wood handle of a hammer. It makes the side plate pop right off. You think the strain screw is loose on this gun ? That causes problems for sure. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 (edited) I'm not sure what's going on. I'd really like to have someone look at it. If Smith looks at it great. If they decide in needs a longer firing pin but won't do it, that's fine. I'll find a good gunsmith to look it over. All I need is a functional gun for my IDPA match coming up on the 1st. I'm president of my school's Practical Pistol Club and I feel I need to represent a couple different classes to get guys involved. I know my smith is longer than regulation allows, but we're having a come out and shoot event that's allowing some of our local revo guys to come out and shoot with some of their longer barrels. It's a lot of work getting an event set up, I would at least like to try out my new toy. I'll call around Monday and get some ideas on what to do. I know Smith will have a quick turnaround if they feel they want to look at it. Again I greatly appreciate all the input from you guys. I learned a lot by taking the side plate off. I found that the firing pin block can be a pain when trying to put the plate back on. If nothing else it's been a learning experience. Edited October 18, 2009 by MTU_327PC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 i just bought a 627-3 PC and sent it to Carmoney with out ever touching the gun.. that's how well i like what he did with my 610 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 You guys need to stop talking about this Carmoney. I'm starting to want to send my gun out to him. I wouldn't mind having all that work done, but are the guns useful for hunting afterwards. I'm wanting some more trigger work done, but not be over the top as not being able to carrying it out in the woods. I've read great reviews on this forum about his work. I think the carmonized hammer would be the cat's meow. I've been working on my double action shooting and think with a bit more trigger work I'll even improve more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 i don't see where it would effect the guns usefulness for hunting, i think the smooth as glass trigger pull would help the hunting... but talk to him about it... he is active on the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 I don't send much back to factories or manufacturers. Need to be able to keep my stuff working on short notice. However when I decided to go with a plastic pistol and bought a couple of S&W M&P's sent both back for one problem or another. Striker guns I knew nothing about and Smith is quick on warranty work. There turn around was just over a week. If you bought it new and it won't work you might want to get it back to them. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 If the gun works 100% with Federal primers then it has been tweaked by someone. If it was brand new never been fired and like this, then send it back to the factory. If you bought it used, then more than likely someone just turned out the strain screw. You have a highly sought after gun that at least a dozen wheelgunners here would love to buy if you decide to dump it.... I am not surprised that it wont light off CCIs if it is set up for Federal primers. The short term thing would be send it back to the factory and have them look at it if you dont have a qualified Revo guy in your area. Good luck! DougC <PS....you get a HE-MAN award from me.......no way I am shooting Huntin loads in a gun that light....learned that lesson with the 329.....yikes> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTU_327PC Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 DougCarden-I love those stout rounds. I don't like to call myself a recoil junky, but I do get a grin from ear to ear. I don't think I would ever get rid of this gun. It's probably the most accurate gun I've shot other than some other modded smiths my dad has. I did buy the gun new, so no one has tinkered with it. I'm wondering if the 100 or so full power factory .357 I've shot in it since I've bought it a month ago has jarred anything around. Most of the rounds have been Factory Hunting rounds or self defense, but shouldn't be anything out of the ordinary. Maybe the guns too light for those rounds? Sorry for the rambling, I'm just trying to justify what's happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 (edited) I'd sure try a replacement (longer) firing pin before I'd send it back. If that doesn't "fix" it and you do end up sending it back, send it with the stock pin installed. http://apextactical.com/hp_zencart/index.p...bhgq1vt6qmkhah2 Edited October 18, 2009 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20nickels Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Incidently, what did the H'day lever rev 140's chrono out at. My wife and her friend shot them out of the SP101 and neither complained of recoil. Hornaday must use a soft primer. My tuned 625 ignites their ammo reliably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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