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K-22 as a trainer?


Model19

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I have a chance to get a K-22 and am wondering if using it as a least expensive live fire trainer makes any sense. It's a 6" as opposed to my 4" M-19 match gun, and of course there will be zero muzzle flip with a .22. Are those enough differences to make it pointless?? The frame and grips will be identical, which is what interested me.

Geoff

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GET IT!!!!!!!!!!! USE IT!!!!!!!!!!! I use a mdl 18 in steel challenge rimfire and for practice all the time.

That gun was the best gun I have ever owned for learning how to shoot a revolver. Heck a handgun period

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i have a pair of ruger mk IIIs, one with a CMore, and a S&W41 i use for practice on plates for GSSF matches. lot of people say the feel is the same, controls are different, and recoil isn't the same which is all true, but i've never been quicker on plates than when i practice at home with the rimfires.

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Absolutely get the K-22.

For a revolver or pistol shooter it's the way to go.

Because of the low cost you can spend time shooting and you get the chance to learn about sights and trigger smoothness.

It's a good thing for any shooter.

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I got chance to test drive That 22 last night. It's about 20% condition looks-wise. The back of the cylinder shows marks where the firing pin hit it between holes :o , and the trigger occasionally binds and then releases fast or felt like it was stacking up in a weird manner.

WTF

So I had a couple of club buddies that are old time wheelgun guys try it to to make sure I was not dreaming. They both felt the same thing. The seller claims this piece was retimed by a gunsmith recently and shoots fine. Hmm...

So I pulled the grip and side plate to have a look-see. The mainspring has several curves in it, and the backside of the plate shows a tiny round divot with a worn groove leading out of it. Looking at the hammer, the pin holding the double action sear was seated so that it protrudes out the side, and that was what wore the hole and groove in the sideplate. I could not push the pin back in with hand power and a small punch. So if this was actually "timed" by a gunsmith, he's not much of one if he put it back together that way. It looks like a dead simple fix though. It locks up well and did shoot fine otherwise with all the great accuracy you'd expect from a vintage Smith.

The seller wants $150. I think as is it's worth $75 to $100 max. A dealer would probably offer next to nothing if it was offered as a trade in piece.

What do you guys think?

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I would try to get the best price possible. However, it wouldn't take much to make the action fairly good. A small hammer and punch will seat any pins that are sticking up and maybe a new rebound and mainspring should do it. I would still buy it even if they won't come down on the price. You can always have it reblued later for not that much and have a really nice piece.

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