BigDave Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 I have a 1st run 610 that I'm having trouble removing the side plate off of. I've taken the three screws on the right side off and have remove the yoke and cylinder. Is there something I'm missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slughammer Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 Take a plastic screw driver handle and whack the right hand side of the grip frame. The inertia will pull the side plate off. The hammer block will fall out when the side plate comes off. When reinstalling the hammer block, line it up on the pin sticking out of the rebound slide. Push it upward so the top is up between the hammer and the frame. When installing the side plate align the top first with the slot in the sideplate over the hammer block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phara Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 Slugghammer's right! It doesn't make sense until you try it. With the side panel facing up and the screws removed whacking the grip will pop the side panel up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 You may need to whack very hard and multiple times. That didn't come out right.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 Use the wooden handle of a hammer to smack across the frame about 1/2 way down if it's stubborn. I had a 66 that had a plate so tight it was a real bugger to get off and I ended up having to fit (shave) the edge so it would go on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRT Driver Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 And when reinstalling it, walk it down from the top gradually. Then tighten the screws evenly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom-Boom Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 One more thing...On the newer Smiths w/ the frame mounted firing pin, the cross pin that retains the firing pin is held in by the side plate. If you have the side plate off, make sure you take out the cross pin and firing pin and put them somewhere safe because it'll come out on it's own w/o the side plate on. These parts are some of the smallest inside the gun and are easily lost. And no matter how tight it is and how much you want to, don't pry the side plate off w/ a screwdriver. Keep whacking the backstrap and it'll come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George D Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 Like Bountyhunter I use an old hammer handle to tap the side of the grip frame about half-way down. Boom-Boom is right about the small parts in the new Smiths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3strokes Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Do all these instructions (from 2003) still apply to a S&W 617-6 (10-round cylinder)? I'm not a gunsmith and this would be my first foray inside a revolver (of any make/model). I just wouldn't to see things flying off across the room without knowing what they were or where or how to replace them. In this Youtube video it looks pretty straightforward. Would I be biting off more than I can chew? And, BTW, I'm in Canada, so getting to a gunsmith requires paperwork, Government paperwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. The rebound slide is really the only skilled removal/reinstallation. Use a proper screwdriver and hit the screws with a blowtorch for a few seconds before taking it apart, Smith uses loctite on the yoke screw and they apparently buy screws made out of cream cheese. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3strokes Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. The rebound slide is really the only skilled removal/reinstallation. Use a proper screwdriver and hit the screws with a blowtorch for a few seconds before taking it apart, Smith uses loctite on the yoke screw and they apparently buy screws made out of cream cheese. I just received (yesterday) Miculek's DVD about Trigger work for S & W revolvers. Am I ever glad I did. He explains with details, the removal of the side plate and why we must gently whack or tap the frame. I'm still waiting for my set of rebound springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 WOW that's me in this video with my 686-2 about two years ago How is little the world Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3strokes Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 WOW that's me in this video with my 686-2 about two years ago How is little the world And what were the odds. This thread is ten years old. Dunque sei tu l'Italiano che ha fatto il video? Si, il Mundo é piccolo. That's enough Italian. (I speak Spanish and hispano-italiano) I must thank you for this video. It is one of the best on You tube regarding trigger jobs and getting into S&W revolvers. If it had not been for your video, knocking the bare frame grips, and arousing my curiosity as to "Why?" I might have opened it by unscrewing and then prying with a thin blade. I also bought Jerry Miculek's DVD and am waiting to receive the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 (edited) Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. If you lose the transfer bar (hammer block), just wave as it leaves and you'll be a happy camper. Edited April 5, 2013 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 (edited) Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. If you lose the transfer bar, just wave as it leaves and you'll be a happy camper. WARNING: when putting the plate back on, press it HARD with thumbs and get it at least half way down before cranking on the screws. Many new SWs plates are poorly fitted and very hard to get ON/OFF. If you try screwing down with only the tip of the screw in the frame, you can tear the threads out and that is a major hassle. Edited April 5, 2013 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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