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Dryfire With A Dry Erase Board


Matthew_Mink

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In a flash of brilliance last night, I had the ultimate idea on a different way to dryfire practice. But first, a story...

I got an email detailing the stages of fire for our upcoming Sectional. More importantly to me, it told which classifier was going to be shot. Hmmm, Quicky II, possibly a good one. I look at the hhf, look at the classifier diagram and I realize that I could 100% it in Production, if I am on. But how to find out? I can time my draw from the start position, time my reloads and transfer to the strong or weak hand, and guesstimate my splits and transitions, but how to know for sure if I can't go to the range. I am thinking on this when I see a spare dry erase board. Then it hits me. Quicky II only has one start box and no movement, so I could draw out the targets and noshoots on the board as I envision they would look from the start box. Being a competent artist, that was no biggie. Then I hung it on the wall, geared up and grabbed the timer and set a par time. Now I can dryfire this classifier all I want and see where I am at.

But it doesn't stop there, if I need to work on target transitions, I can just draw a couple of targets and dryfire them. If I need to work on hard cover, ditto. Plate racks, ditto. The possibilities are only limited by what one is able to draw on the board.

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Actually, my kits are much different than those Jim sells. The targets in my kits measure roughly 9" x 15", with a perforated A zone of 3" x 5.5", and B, C, and D zones proportionate in size as well. The targets are sized at a 4 to 1 ratio, so one of my targets placed at 3 yards looks exactly like a full size target at 12 yards. The cardboard is the same thickness as that used in full size targets. If memory serves, Jim's targets were much smaller targets and as such were made out of thinner material than those I have. His are more suitable for dryfire at much closer actual distances, assuming you're not practicing long range. Lots of people buy my targets as actual shoot targets as well as dry fire targets. People shoot them with airsoft guns, use them in small indoor ranges to emulate 40 and 50 yard distances, use them as AR targets if their club doesn't have a long distance range, as one of the targets at 50 yards emulates a full size IPSC target at 200 yards.

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Nah, I just draw an X through the no-shoots.

The only drawback to the little sticker kits or cutouts is you can't change the size of them, unless you just put them farther back in the room. With the dry erase board, I literally have an infinate number of targets and sizes. The only limitation is artist ability and board clutter.

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Hi all,

I don't mean to take business away from anybody but you can do your own thing if you have access to some sort of CAD system. You can even use powerpoint. I used a program called Visio and drew the IPSC target using the dimensions in the rule book. A single target that fills an 8.5 x 11.0" sheet is about 1/3 scale. I then copied the image to another sheet, scaled it 1/2 again and put 2 images on the sheet in landscape orientation. I repeated the process and got 8 little bitty targets on one sheet. I printed them on a color printer so things look "normal" I have them hanging all over my home office in sheet protectors. It makes my wife a bit nervous, but then, there are quite a few things that do that. The targets are great for draws/dryfire/target transition.

DVC,

Chuck

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