Boats Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Mike, Read your old post on lube. This due to the beater M 19 I have been fooling with. Bought it rusted good, stripped down completely and have it clean now. No polishing just rust off the internals and externals. Most was outside but the right side of the hammer and trigger inside the frame were real rusty as was the rebound slide. Gun is back together dry. Am going to send it out for plating but want to shoot it some first, make sure it's worth spending the money on. Agree with your advice Mobil 1 on the bearing surfaces sparingly. Normally for rifles I don't like lubed triggers or sears, they attract dirt and the pull changes as the oil gums and gets dirty. I do hear other things about Smiths. In Kuhnhausens manual he recommends grease for the rebound spring and inside the hammer block channel. I don't know how old his book is, could be advice before good lubes like Mobil 1 were available. You also read about high tech slick miracle lubes on the sliding parts like the rebound slide. Would you care to expand on your inside the frame lube advice ? or is it as simple as Mobil 1. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I wasn't sure what I was going to find when I clicked on this topic Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franklin D Wolverton Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I wasn't sure what I was going to find when I clicked on this topic Tom Me either... I didn't know his prices were THAT high... Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigsaxdog Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 i think you should ask 'otis' about lubrication.........he had to have some 'special stuff' last weekend...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 After the shift I have had today I needed a good laugh........ Thanks! DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 i think you should ask 'otis' about lubrication.........he had to have some 'special stuff' last weekend...... What was your favorite?? Cherry or Watermelon??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I wasn't sure what I was going to find when I clicked on this topic Tom Had to know you'd find Cliff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Mike, Read your old post on lube. This due to the beater M 19 I have been fooling with. Bought it rusted good, stripped down completely and have it clean now. No polishing just rust off the internals and externals. Most was outside but the right side of the hammer and trigger inside the frame were real rusty as was the rebound slide. Gun is back together dry. Am going to send it out for plating but want to shoot it some first, make sure it's worth spending the money on. Agree with your advice Mobil 1 on the bearing surfaces sparingly. Normally for rifles I don't like lubed triggers or sears, they attract dirt and the pull changes as the oil gums and gets dirty. I do hear other things about Smiths. In Kuhnhausens manual he recommends grease for the rebound spring and inside the hammer block channel. I don't know how old his book is, could be advice before good lubes like Mobil 1 were available. You also read about high tech slick miracle lubes on the sliding parts like the rebound slide. Would you care to expand on your inside the frame lube advice ? or is it as simple as Mobil 1. Boats Boats, please try to disregard all these cranks, OK? Although I've tried lots of different stuff, Mobil 1 is the only lubricant I have been using on my firearms for several years. It's also the only lube I apply to a customer's revolver when I complete an action job and assemble it for test-fire. I simply put a few drops on the key areas (inside and outside the rebound slide, pivot pins, engagement surfaces) and let it spread to the rest of the internal action. I generally do not add any additional lube to the internal action, unless I take the gun apart, which I generally only do when something breaks, which is pretty rare. Most of my revolvers have not been taken apart for a long time, years in some cases. I like to keep my guns externally clean, and I do add Mobil 1 to the yoke barrel (without taking the cylinder out) from time to time, however I do not add any oil under the extractor. No grease, anywhere, ever. My carry/defensive revolvers are kept completely dry, other than one drop of oil on the yoke barrel. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 No worries, am sure the comments come with affection and fond memories. Agree your advice and going to drop just a bit in this 19. Pivot and sliding parts only. Guy I shoot with is a real life scientist, he said Mobil 1 is different, hangs on better than natural oils and never gums. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Hello I read this post because I was interested in a better lubrication for my 686. I tried it on a friend's advice synthetic engine oil, I found in my house Selenia 10W 40 (i'm from Italy) and the feeling of shooting is very good (and "sounds very good"). Kneads fat and attract dust and fine oil dries too quickly. It 's the right compromise. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 i think you should ask 'otis' about lubrication.........he had to have some 'special stuff' last weekend...... What was your favorite?? Cherry or Watermelon??? Now that scares the He** out of me!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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