BigDave Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 I just rec'd my new EB cylinder latch (like the one sold in the Dillon Blue Press and Brownells) to install on my 5" 610. I put it on, but it seems as though its taking way too much effort to get it to travel enough to release the cylinder. Just because I could and didn't give a hoot, I took the yoke and cylinder off of the fame and cut one coil off of the small spring on the latch pin (if thats what is called, the thingy that keeps the cylinder locked into the frame). It seems to help some. I also did a small amount of filing on bottom of the latch itself and sanded with fine sandpaper (1500) to help smooth things abit. It help some, but it still seems to take way too much to open the cylinder (the old button is better). Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 FYI: When I put that part of my S&W 686 I was accidentally unlocking the cylinder with my right thumb in recoil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 Big Dave, You could take a black majic marker and mark the entire back of the Cylinder Release button to see if it drags any place. Would also check the front of the mechanism to see if any debris got between it and the back of the rebound shield. I take the spring thingy completely out of my revo hasn't hurt anything yet. I use a ball detent for lock up so there might be some difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 I think I remember when this part came out, the word was spread that S&W had been inconsistant in cutting the slots for the latches over the years, and that you could not count on the part to drop in and work. I had to do some fitting on my 625. The instructions were to file the slot. I chose to file on the new latch. That made the job harder, but everything came out right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 Swing out the cylinder and look at the breech face as you push the latch all the way forward. Is the flat end of the pin getting all the way flush with the face of the recoil shield? If not, that's the problem. Options are to file the slot in the frame, file the edge of the latch where it meets the front of the frame, or build up and machine a little extra material onto the front of the pin that pushes on the cylinder release pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rufus The Bum Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 BigDave, buy "Trigger Job" by Jerrry Miculek, he goes over filing that cylinder latch and the spring that holds tension on it. I installed an old cylinder release from a 629 and filed it like Jerry said and it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phara Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 I had that problem on one of my guns and I found out that when I didn't screw the latch down tight it worked just great. So a little filing on the latch as per Bubbers instructions solved the problem. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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