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Externally modify a 2011 grip safety


Merlin Orr

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PERMITTED Modifications (Inclusive list):

1. Sights to another notch and post type (see “sights” in

glossary for further information).

2. Grips (no weighted grips; see “weighted grips” in glossary

for further details).

3. Internal accuracy work (includes: replacement of the barrel

with one of factory configuration, the use of Accu-Rails, the

use of Briley Bushings).

4. Factory installed cone style barrels are permitted on pistols

with a barrel length of 4.2” or less.

5. Internal reliability work.

6. Checker frontstrap and backstrap.

7. Checker or square and checker trigger guard.

8. Cosmetic checkering/serrating.

24

9. Extended thumb (may be ambidextrous) and Beavertail grip

safeties.

10. Extended magazine release (button may not be oversize in

diameter or protrude more than .2” out from the frame).

11. Full length guide rod manufactured of material that is no

heavier than common steel.

12. Hammer and other trigger action parts to enhance trigger

pull (includes over travel stop).

13. Beveled magazine well and add-on well extensions.

14. Custom finishes.

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When I built my Caspian I had a gun smith mill a flat spot on the grip safety and weld a 1/2" block of stainless on it so that I could shape a large enough bump to disengage my safety with small hands and a high hold. I checked with HQ prior to doing it and they said no problem with the extra large memory bump.

Grip.jpg

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When I built my Caspian I had a gun smith mill a flat spot on the grip safety and weld a 1/2" block of stainless on it so that I could shape a large enough bump to disengage my safety with small hands and a high hold. I checked with HQ prior to doing it and they said no problem with the extra large memory bump.

Grip.jpg

Did you get some kind of written confirmation? Seems to be stated in the rules (as quoted) that the INCLUSIVE list does not allow... or address maybe... ? (insert hopeful expression icon)

Going from my grip of 10 years with a pinned safety to a non pinned safety plays billy hell with my ability to shoot my fat body .45....Actually I have the same problem with a skinny gun too. I really hate to think I will have to completely change my grip to get the grip safety to work....

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Did you get some kind of written confirmation? Seems to be stated in the rules (as quoted) that the INCLUSIVE list does not allow... or address maybe... ? (insert hopeful expression icon)

Going from my grip of 10 years with a pinned safety to a non pinned safety plays billy hell with my ability to shoot my fat body .45....Actually I have the same problem with a skinny gun too. I really hate to think I will have to completely change my grip to get the grip safety to work....

They said that number 9 on the Permitted Modifications list covered it.

9. Extended thumb (may be ambidextrous) and Beavertail grip

safeties.

I have seen some glue a piece of mouse pad or leather to the grip safety to make it disengage. I went with the permanent steel modification and then tuned the safety for a lite touch release. Be carefull tuning it for a lite release as it doesn't take much to go from working to not working.

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You could, but it would be MUCH easier and less expensive to simply sensitize the grip safety so that, while still totally functional, it will disengage with little inward movement.

Took it to Benny this afternoon and did that very thing. After watching me for a bunch of draws Benny observed that my problem may stem from my being a "scooper". I have been instructed to work on modifying my draw - to get away from the "scoop" method and come down firmly on the gun to ensure my hand placement. After testing the 'down onto the gun" grab many times I had zero failures to properly engage the grip safety. Hopefully I can make the change from scooping draw to a grabbing downward draw without to much pain.......

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried the weld up method on a Kimber GS. I used TIG and limited the heat input by working slowly and letting it cool between passes. After dressing up the weld so it looked decent and reassembly I realized the lenght had shrunk by about 0.040" despite all the care. Now it barely catches under the mainspring housing.

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I tried the weld up method on a Kimber GS. I used TIG and limited the heat input by working slowly and letting it cool between passes. After dressing up the weld so it looked decent and reassembly I realized the lenght had shrunk by about 0.040" despite all the care. Now it barely catches under the mainspring housing.

Chuck Rogers did the addition for me. He milled a flat spot on an Ed Brown Grip safety and then silver soldered a .600" block of stainless on it. He sent it to me like that so that I could shape it into what I wanted. Chuck is a real craftsman and you can't even see the line where it's joined since he had a perfect fit.

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