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fitting a ti cylinder


speed

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Anyone have any info on adjusting timing on a new cylinder? Just got a brand new ti cylinder and my hammer will only fall on 3 cylinders. I'm assuming that the ratched pads are oversized and need trimming.

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1) Make sure your Head Space and End Play are good. Use the thinnest hand you have.

2) Fit the Ends of the Extractor Star to the Cylinder. On the new style that's what takes the torque. The 2 curved ones (the largest) should both contact the Cylinder at the same time.

3) Make sure all of the Chamfer Job you are going to do is done. Doing anything drastic later can cause it to time late.

4) Carefully work the sides of the Ratchets that the Hand contacts after it pushes the cylinder up. It's actually the lower outer portion. Good thing about the new style is they don't require fitting for the upper limit of the stroke.

5) Don't forget to slightly bevel the bottom edge of the Ratchet Valley where the Hand rides over at the END of it's stroke. And the very top edge of the next Ratchet down that the Hand rides over as it falls back.

New Extractors aren't very expensive so if you screw up it's not the end of the world to get another. Brownells has them.

I've had good luck using a 1911 Slide File. It's thin, flat and has safe portions of the sides and ends.

Edited by pskys2
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You can also get Ti cylinders from Speed Shooters Specialties. Give Kenny a call or order it from the web site. Good guy that supports the sport.also.

AND, he shows 7 shot 686 Ti cylinders on closeout for $120. Doesn't list any other Ti cylinders. Got my Ti 625 cyl from him when he was listing them.

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Can you increase the chamfer on a Ti cylinder? And polish the insides? Or would it be a bad idea? I remember reading something about how Ti cylinders have a special coating that needs to be left alone, but then again I may be wrong.

Edited by dex_games
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You can chamfer a Ti cylinder and polish the chambers. I have done both several times with no problems. (You do need to use a Dremel and proper stone to do the chamfer, though, the hand tool just won't cut it--literally and figuratively.) The special coating is on the outside of the cylinder. I avoid using stainless brushes on them, otherwise they can be treated the same as any other cylinder, from what I've seen.

NOW--(and I know I say this every time the topic of Ti cylinders comes up)--before you start buying and trying to install a Ti cylinder, ask yourself this question: "What am I trying to accomplish with this?" Most of the time, the real answer is, "I don't know, it just seems really cool to have a Ti cylinder!", and that's about it. Good enough reason, I suppose, after all it's your money......

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where did you get a Ti cylinder? I want one for my 686+.

A buddy I got lucky!

Don't forget to slightly bevel the bottom edge of the Ratchet Valley where the Hand rides over at the END of it's stroke.

Could you explain RATchet VALLEY? I'm having trouble understanding what area that is.

Thanks

art

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I would add that Ed McGivern, I think it was him, had stated that his speed with a Revovler was enhanced by the "Flywheel" action of the Revolver Cylinder.

???

You used to hear that all the time in gun magazines. Never made any sense to me. The cylinder stops and starts with every shot. I'm installing my 3rd Ti cylinder. I really like them. There's a noteably reduced torque reaction from the cylinder starting and stopping. Very noticeable difference if you're shooting with a red dot. It's not going to jump me up to GM (or even A or B) but every little bit helps.

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where did you get a Ti cylinder? I want one for my 686+.

A buddy I got lucky!

Don't forget to slightly bevel the bottom edge of the Ratchet Valley where the Hand rides over at the END of it's stroke.

Could you explain RATchet VALLEY? I'm having trouble understanding what area that is.

Thanks

art

Don't know if "Valley" is the correct term, but it's the bottom (or recessed) portion of the Extractor between the raised ratchets (the raised pieces the hand hits to rotate the cylinder).

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