hondaman Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I am having terrible troubles getting primers to seat, loading .223 military brass. I have the Dillon super swage, and I am not certain if I am swaging it properly. If I know its being done right, then I can look at the press to find the problem (xl650) I have the pin advanced so that when I insert the case and drop it into the swager, it very nearly touches the black advance plate, and thats with me holding the plate back against the swager as far as it will go. Does that sound about right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Lord Gomer Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I am also very new at it, so take any other advice before mine, but I did notice that when adjusted "too tight" I was expanding the primer pockets too much and had primers literally falling out. Once I got to that point, I backed off on the adjustment until I could feel a consistent pressure necessary to seat every primer. The adjustment id seem to be different for different brands of brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maineshootah Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I am also very new at it, so take any other advice before mine, but I did notice that when adjusted "too tight" I was expanding the primer pockets too much and had primers literally falling out. Once I got to that point, I backed off on the adjustment until I could feel a consistent pressure necessary to seat every primer. The adjustment id seem to be different for different brands of brass. The adjustment will be different for each type of brass. Make it easy on yourself, and sort the brass by head stamp before you start. If you notice that you are warping the flash hole, then you have way too much. Loosen the nut and back the swager out 1/4 turn and try again. You might have to make a few trips from the swager to the 650 to see if you have done it enough, but once set, you will grow accustomed to the "feel" of the downstroke pressure and know if you have it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoedo Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Do you use the Dillon swager on non-military brass? If you have military brass, does it remove the crimp only and require a separate step to remove the spent primer? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Do you use the Dillon swager on non-military brass? If you have military brass, does it remove the crimp only and require a separate step to remove the spent primer? Thanks The primer has to be out before anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGwelder Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I use a uniformer bit first and then into the swager. That seemed to make the feel of the swager more consistant and easier to set up for me. Also as far as I understand, the swage should only be working the outside radius of the primer pocket. Sizing it and making it a smooth radius. Like others stated. Sort by headstand so the thickness of the cases at the flash hole area is the same. I have mine set so the back-up plate is able to move around. I can get a piece of brass in with the backup plate up against the side the pin is on. The pressure to process a casing isn't very much. If it looks like that pin is straining it's too much. Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D. Manley Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 The instructions are pretty basic but are accurate. You want to shoot for a minimal swage...biggest mistake people make with them initially is overestimating the amount of force required. The little suckers have tremendous leverage and if you have to exert any significant force, it's way too much. As a starting point, back off the swage rod a good bit and insert an unswaged case. Drop the handle (as if swaging) and tighten the swage rod as tight as it goes into the pocket. Release the tension and turn tighten the swage rod another 1/4 turn and lock it down. Try a few and check primer seating. Continue until primers seat easily and consistent but not, too easy or loose. Under swaging don't hurt anything, you can adjust and go on...overdone, it's a wasted piece of brass. Until you develop a feel for the required force you'll probably have to re-adjust when you change headstamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Has anyone seen any difference in different lots of Lake City brass. Headstamps include NATO & non-NATO and year lots back into the 70's. I've got several 1000's to pick from so which are preferred? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Do you use the Dillon swager on non-military brass? If you have military brass, does it remove the crimp only and require a separate step to remove the spent primer? Thanks The primer has to be out before anything. /thread drift/ not if you bought the super-swage with the case-feeder attachment, also known as the super 1050 i shouldn't laugh, that was how I talked myself into a $1500 press instead of buying a $100 case swager... on the other hand, it's an awesome piece of equipment that has exceeded all of my expectations, so I have no complaints /end thread drift/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litlratt Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Has anyone seen any difference in different lots of Lake City brass. Headstamps include NATO & non-NATO and year lots back into the 70's. I've got several 1000's to pick from so which are preferred? I've never noticed any difference. Have prepped thousands for highpower practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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