sgrc1 Posted August 23, 2003 Share Posted August 23, 2003 I finally finished modifying my G23 for IPSC Modified division. Only that it Won´t cycle with every shot , Here is what I have: The GUN : GL23 KKM barrel with compensator JP Enterprise sight melted into the rail Trigger mods (LS firing pin and some other stuff I did from the Rhea article) LS guide rod with 14 pound Wolf spring Brass magwell from Glockmeister +3 mag extensions from Arredondo on standard 13 shot mags Checkered grips (melted, feel very good) All of the above make a gun that does fit into the IPSC box therefore qualifies for Modififed. The loads: VITA N320 at 4.9 grs West coast 180 gr bullets 1130 COL .421-.423 crimp The most common problem I got today was that the round was not feeding into the barrel, it got stuck trying to go into the barrel. the rounds got really stuck as they woulnt come out just by ciclying the gun, I had to use a stronger method (grip slide with hand and hit hard on frame), which made me loose alot of time. Any help will be greatly appreciated, so far I am thinking a few solutions: 1. Try a lower recoil spring (although I havent found anything under 14 pnds) 2. Crimp a little more, maybe .419 3. Do stronger loads Please help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 For starters: Do your rounds drop into a case gauge freely? If you don't have one, remove the barrel from the gun and use that. Your ammo should drop in and fall out. If that's not the problem ---- your recoil spring weight sounds high for any kind of an open gun. I'm running ISMI 13 lb. springs with three coils removed in a Glock 34 with minor loads. You might try them. Is your slide stock? If so it might be too heavy. Are these jams ocurring only with full mags or at any mag capacity? If with full there's a possibility that your mag springs are too strong... It sounds a lot like you need an experienced open smith.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yar Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 Also check to make sure the wire nubbin from the slide stop is under the locking block pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 Someone makes a 12-pound spring (Wolff, I believe). Is the PF for modified 170? If you're using "Glocked" brass in your KKM barrel, that is the most likely culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireglock Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 Buy and use a Lee FCD in your last operation or stage of your progressive. The KKM barrel likes the relaods a lot better after thay've been through the FCD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgrc1 Posted August 24, 2003 Author Share Posted August 24, 2003 Nik, Yes my rounds drop freely into the barrel, I am using a size roller to get the brass back to normal after it expands. The recoil spring could be a solution I was thinking of, I will try to get my hands on a 12 or 13 pound spring to give it a try. As with the mag springs, I am using the Arredondo +3´s and they come with a Wolf spring (which I think is made for the 15 round mag +3 but I phoned arredondo and the guy told me I could use the same one on my 13 round mag +3??). I forgot to mention It is the stock slide but I have cut out the top of it (sort of like the G35) to get some weight off. Yar, Thanks, checked thats ok. 300lbg, I am re-sizing the brass, so the Glocked brass should be the problem. By the way the round gets stuck at the tip, not at the brass. Thats why I am thinking about the crimp. fireglock, What is a lee FCD?? Thanks to all so far for help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireglock Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 A LEE Factory Crimp Die. It crimps and sizes in one step, typically making your rounds work in the tighter chambers of aftermarket barrels. Using a FCD and seating to 1.135" solved the feeding problems I experienced with my 35 w/KKM barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted August 24, 2003 Share Posted August 24, 2003 Check to see how much reward travel your slide has with the new recoil rod and spring. Just pull the slide all the way to the rear by hand...look down into the ejection port from the top...note how much of the frame/ejector is visable. Then do the same with the stock rod and spring. (If there is a difference, then you spring and rod are likely binding in the spring tunnel.) Get a CASE GAUGE. Try the rounds in the gauge normally, and backwards. I also finish my loads off with a Lee Factory Crimp Die (FDC) in the final station. The FDC sizes the whole round, and helps to ensure that you don't get any bullet set-back. Oh...and it allows you to crimp in a seperate station from bullet seating as well. (I load my Zero 180 JHP's to 1.135 OAL) As a final test...unscrew the comp. Take it off. See if the gun cycles without it hanging on the end of the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 So let me make sure I understand this correctly: When the 23 jams, the nose of the bullet hits the ramp and stops, most likely at the bottom edge? Do I have that right? When I took Todd's class, he pointed out the copper on the bottom edge of the ramp on my barrel, and suggested that I shorten my OAL. Between shortening the OAL and taking three coils off the ISMI 13lb spring, the problem has disappeared. You might try the spring first --- then consider a shorter OAL if the spring doesn't solve your problem. Of course if you shorten the OAL you gotta start load development all over.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgrc1 Posted August 25, 2003 Author Share Posted August 25, 2003 Nick: I have not found a 13 pound for the mid frame glock 23, it only appears for the large frame 22. Can use the same one cutting off to the proper length? Or can anyone tell me where can I get specifically a 13 pound spring for G23. Flexmoney: With the lee FCD, I just checked their web site, is this the Lee Carbide factory crimp die you are refering to?. will this die work with my dillon Square deal B?. When you mean the die sizes the whole round, is this equivalent to rolling the brass to get it back to its normal dimensions? In the meantime, I will go tomorrow to try some new rounds and check vrs. stock guide rod, without the comp, mag without the +3 and stock springs, etc.. see how it goes, and I will let you guys know. sgrc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 The SBD uses a different sized die. You can't use the Lee FDC with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgrc1 Posted August 26, 2003 Author Share Posted August 26, 2003 Good news! I just came back from the range and the gun worked perfect!, all I really did was close the crimp to .419 and change de guide rod to the stock guide rod instead of my LS rod with Wolf 15 pound spring. I got a PF of 174 which makes Major. OAL is 1135. I still want to change the stock guide rod, I just don´t like the plastic one. Which one do you guys recommend?. And also since it is working fine with the stock guide rod with stock spring, should I get the same 17 pound spring?, what is the advantage of getting a lower spring? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 I still want to change the stock guide rod, I just don´t like the plastic one. The Glock guide rod is a $6 part. Why not just buy a handfull and chuck them periodically? If your gun works, why keep farting around with it? However, if farting around with your gun is your life's destiny, you could try a guide rod from Glockmeister. I have a captive tungsten from GM and have had zero issues with it. And if the stock recoil spring was what my gun "liked" I'd cannibalize them off the handful of stock Glock parts that I bought. FWIW, the stock recoil spring is fine. I, too, was suspicious at first, but there's really nothing wrong with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Nothing wrong with the plastic rod. If it works, and it feels right...then no harm keeping it. If you do change to an after-market rod, get a spring at each weight..see what you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atmar Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 A LEE Factory Crimp Die. It crimps and sizes in one step, typically making your rounds work in the tighter chambers of aftermarket barrels. Using a FCD and seating to 1.135" solved the feeding problems I experienced with my 35 w/KKM barrel. fireglock, i'm having the same problems w/ the barsto barrel i bought for my 22, do you think the lee fcd will help? or is the barsto barrel tighter than the kkm? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireglock Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 A LEE Factory Crimp Die. It crimps and sizes in one step, typically making your rounds work in the tighter chambers of aftermarket barrels. Using a FCD and seating to 1.135" solved the feeding problems I experienced with my 35 w/KKM barrel. fireglock, i'm having the same problems w/ the barsto barrel i bought for my 22, do you think the lee fcd will help? or is the barsto barrel tighter than the kkm? thanks I think it will. My Barsto has a tighter chamber than the KKM I used. I'm shooting 9mm now so I can't say for a fact about .40. I do think .40 benefits more from a FCD than 9 or .45. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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