625-3 3 inch

[Toolguy]

I always have a problem getting lead rounds to seat all the way in a 625 after shooting a cyl. or two. I have found it is due to

the accumulation of lead and powder residue in the corner where the case mouth is supposed to headspace. It is easy to fix

that problem by reaming the sharp corner off with a .45 Colt chamber reamer until it is a smooth tapered transition like a

.44 or any rimmed case. The .45s headspace off the moonclips anyway. By removing the corner, junk goes out the barrel instead of

building up. The rounds then drop into the altered chambers easily and completely. I have done all 3 of my 625s this way

and have had no problems of any kind. All are very accurate to 50 yards. This also allows you to load up to 255 grain

.45 Colt bullets (I have even done 300 grain for bowling pins). I crimp lightly if they have a crimp groove. You can roll crimp

or taper crimp, depending on bullet type. I would reccommend this operation for 9mm or 10mm also, using an appropriate

size reamer in each case. For moonclip revolver only, don't do this to an auto.

[Boats]

Toolguy that makes sense, in fact thinking about it my 45 ACP loads intended for Automatics and using that H&G # 68 SWC fit tight to the Leade in the Auto barrel. Not a good thing for a revolver. Perhaps the round nose bullets will not have that issue and my "Smith" can chamfer the leade some like you say.

Thanks on the crimping too. going to experement with it. Have a couple of ways to crimp 45 cal, dies either for the 45/70 or 45 LC, if they will crimp the shorter case that is. My 45 ACP dies will only taper crimp.

Boats

[Tom E]

Toolguy that makes sense, in fact thinking about it my 45 ACP loads intended for Automatics and using that H&G # 68 SWC fit tight to the Leade in the Auto barrel. Not a good thing for a revolver. Perhaps the round nose bullets will not have that issue and my "Smith" can chamfer the leade some like you say.

Thanks on the crimping too. going to experement with it. Have a couple of ways to crimp 45 cal, dies either for the 45/70 or 45 LC, if they will crimp the shorter case that is. My 45 ACP dies will only taper crimp.

Boats

Are you sure it's buildup at the chamber throat transition "lip"? That certainly can be an issue. Another is brass that's been fired in a semi-auto. The brass swells just above the extractor groove (because the semi-auto chamber is BIG so they'll feed) and many dies don't sqeeze that area back down enough (Lee's do). The cases don't want to go the last ~1/8" into the chamber. Many chambers are also undersize and need reamed and compound the problem. Doesn't mean you don't have a lead buildup issue but you could have both problems.

[Toolguy]

I would agree with Tom E. You need to study the situation to determine your specific needs. We can only guess and give general guidelines

without seeing the gun personally. To clarify the reaming thing, if you want to get rid of the ledge, you have to make it angled all the way out

to the case diameter. If you just "chamfer it some" and leave some of the ledge, you will still have the same problem because there will

still be the corner for junk to collect in. An auto has a heavy slide and spring to jam one shell into the chamber. It can overcome some

buildup. A revolver has only the weight of the cartridges to get six or more all the way in by gravity. There needs to be an unobstructed

path if they are to go in all the way in a reliable and consistent manner. You probably understood this the first time around, I'm just trying

to avoid any confusion. I hope you find this helpful.

[Boats]

Thanks both, and it's real helpfull.

I did understand on the leade but it's a good idea to clarify for the post. Shoot a lot of Cast bullet target rifle and on the good ones have the leade cut to fit my particular bullet mold. One shot only with black powder needs the chamber wiped between shots for any sort of accucary at all. Build up and I have to force the bullet in and it is not good for target work.

Cylinder work on the new 625 is over my head but our local revolver "Smith" is good at it. I do need to know what to tell him needs attention though. On the 45 brass that could well be an issue. Range pick up brass particularly if from a Glock can be real big at the base. I have a hand selected lot of Winchester brass in the tumbler now and will take particular pains with re-sizing and measuring up when loading.

Let you guys know how it all turns out.

Boats

[Revopop]

It could be your load. I have that same problem using 231(HP38) in my .38s. Try 4ish gr. of Clays and crimp the shit out of it. I usually load to 1.250 OAL and about .470 crimp. Never had a problem. Ever.

[Tom E]

Measure the diameter of your brass just above the extractor groove. If it's bigger than .4710" you have a problem.

Crimping: Over crimping is bad and will result in loss of accuracy and bulets walking out of the cases. Relying on others crimped case mouth diameters can be misleading because case mouth brass thickness varies between different brands of brass and your actual bullet diameter.

Edited December 19, 2008 by Tom E

[20nickels]

I always have a problem getting lead rounds to seat all the way in a 625 after shooting a cyl. or two. I have found it is due to

the accumulation of lead and powder residue in the corner where the case mouth is supposed to headspace. It is easy to fix

that problem by reaming the sharp corner off with a .45 Colt chamber reamer until it is a smooth tapered transition like a

.44 or any rimmed case. The .45s headspace off the moonclips anyway. By removing the corner, junk goes out the barrel instead of

building up. The rounds then drop into the altered chambers easily and completely. I have done all 3 of my 625s this way

and have had no problems of any kind. All are very accurate to 50 yards. This also allows you to load up to 255 grain

.45 Colt bullets (I have even done 300 grain for bowling pins). I crimp lightly if they have a crimp groove. You can roll crimp

or taper crimp, depending on bullet type. I would reccommend this operation for 9mm or 10mm also, using an appropriate

size reamer in each case. For moonclip revolver only, don't do this to an auto.

All I shoot is .45 Colt lead and do not currently have this problem. I am using a .45 ACP Redding Profile Crimp die in a 325 Ti cylinder. I used to have this problem in my 625-8 steel cylinder until it was reamed to the correct size, Tks, Mike!

This is an interesting concept though, smoothing the casemouth step. I've always admired the self cleaning properties of rimmed cartridges. As a side note, a member on THR has shot 500 rds (jacketed I think) through his stock 625 without any cleaning and I believe he eventually just stopped there.

[Boats]

On crimping here is what I know about it. Still much to learn.

Strong crimp will get powder to burn that's not inclined to otherwise. Too strong will mess up a carefully cast bullet. It's a good way to make up for light bullets though. I generally do not measure crimps, rely on a good look with a magnifier, if it looks right it usually is and measurements can be off due to bullet or case size. Plus unless you have some sort of stop jig when measuring it's hard to get accurate readings on tapered cases. Am going to take the crimping advice to heart. My 45 LC & 38-357 give a pretty good crimp and they have been successful. Just never roll crimped the ACP before.

Thanks for that .4710 dim will check my sized brass. I keep a half dozen factory rounds in most calibers to check dims will measure up some old unfired 45 ACP Ball see what it mikes too. I am probably drifting here and will leave the re-loading part alone after. Thanks for the 625 tips.

Boats

Edited December 19, 2008 by Boats

[Boats]

Update on sticky chambering

Had my gunsmith polish & chamfer the cylinders . Still loading sticky. Finally took the boards advice and bought a jug of Clays. Makes a huge difference. Shot 48 rounds with clays no problems chambering the moonclips. Mild load and firm crimp. Brushed the cylinders clean. Ran one moon clip using my old W 231 load and the 2nd clip had to be pushed hard to go home.

Now I wonder if my occasional fail to feed in 1911's was due to W 231.

Boats

Edited January 14, 2009 by Boats

[snertley]

Update on sticky chambering

Now I wonder if my occasional fail to feed in 1911's was due to W 231.

Boats

I've been using W231 for years and for the last 2yrs for my S&W610 in 40S&W. Never have had a problem with sticking or unburned powder. I finaly figured out what was giving me reloading problem last summer. It was the dreaded Glock brass bulge! not my powder. I've never had an issue with W231 for my autos either in 40 or 45.

[Boats]

W231 has been my powder of choice for the 45 ACP for some time. Moved to it from Unique due better measureing ablity. However the revolver is another animal. 1911 only chambers one at a time and has the slide slamming the cartridge home. Revolver you drop 6 in at once and expect them to go home with gravity alone. Difference between 231 and Clays is noticable given that situation. Have a couple of jugs of 231 but once they are gone will see how Clays works for Auto loads. I don't think dirty every gave me a FTF but you never know.

Agree on Glockized cases. For this 625 I have hand seperated a lot of Winchester 45 brass all from the same 1911, and keeping them seperate from my Auto fired cases.

Boats

[Tom E]

Agree on Glockized cases. For this 625 I have hand seperated a lot of Winchester 45 brass all from the same 1911, and keeping them seperate from my Auto fired cases.

Boats

If you use a Lee sizing die you don't have to keep the brass seperated.

[Boats]

Tom

My die set is a Lee, understand they made a run of small base dies too for progressive loaders. However problem I have found with range pick up 45 ACP brass is some cases have a very slight bend to the rim. It may be from Glocks or some other new style 45 acp autoloader. I found some cases not fitting well when put into the shell holder. Chucked them up in my lathe and put a dial indicator on the rims. Was out just a bit, faced off square they load and feed fine. It's hard to see when seperating so rely on any sticky fit in the shellholder to reject cases.

Was this a problem with FTF in a 1911 ? who knows, I don't have a big problem with it but one is a lot when match shooting. For the S&W 625 it's easy to keep brass seperated. Thats a good policy to follow with any gun if possable.

Boats

[Tom E]

Tom

My die set is a Lee, understand they made a run of small base dies too for progressive loaders. However problem I have found with range pick up 45 ACP brass is some cases have a very slight bend to the rim. It may be from Glocks or some other new style 45 acp autoloader. I found some cases not fitting well when put into the shell holder. Chucked them up in my lathe and put a dial indicator on the rims. Was out just a bit, faced off square they load and feed fine. It's hard to see when seperating so rely on any sticky fit in the shellholder to reject cases.

Was this a problem with FTF in a 1911 ? who knows, I don't have a big problem with it but one is a lot when match shooting. For the S&W 625 it's easy to keep brass seperated. Thats a good policy to follow with any gun if possable.

Boats

Makes sense. EGW sells the small base dies but they are just Lee dies that have been shortened to remove part of the entry radius.

[Boats]

Tom, If you want to see what small base dies will do to your brass take the de-capping pin out of your F/L die and shell holder out of the press. Put a washer on the ram and run a case in full. Have to knock it back out with a rod from the top.

Measurements are interesting sometimes.

Boats

[Tom E]

Tom, If you want to see what small base dies will do to your brass take the de-capping pin out of your F/L die and shell holder out of the press. Put a washer on the ram and run a case in full. Have to knock it back out with a rod from the top.

Measurements are interesting sometimes.

Boats

Yep, does what shortening the die does. I have a trimmed shell holder I tried. Same idea but you can get the brass out of the die without a punch. Also tried a .308 size die which actually sized them too much and required an elephant to run the press. I load on a Square Deal B and just settled on sizeing/deprimeing seperately on an old Rock Chucker with a Lee sizing die. I'm looking at modding the primeing cross slide (Square Deal) to make the primer seating depth adjustable. It was a surprise to find how big (dia. just above the extractor groove) resized brass can be vs. new.

[Boats]

Never thought about trimming the shell holder ought to work good. Die itself is so hard it's not easy to trim. Actually right now I don't have a big problem with swelled bases as long as I watch out for those bent rims. Our club allows full auto and it may have come out of somebody's open breech gun.

Back to the 625 just ran 12 dozen moon clips through without a hiccup. All using a 200 gr RN strong crimp and 4.0 of Clays. Think I am home free. Am going to try to classify IDPA with it in a couple of weeks. No doubt the 3 inch barrel will give something up on the 20 yard barricade, hopefully not a lot, all I really need to do is keep 18 shots on the paper. make scores on the rest of the course. 7 yd head shots it seems to shoot right along with my Government models. Rest of the classifier expect no troubles due to the 3 inch barrel. My re-loads are not as fast as with automatics but not many to do in the classifier. The give you right much more time revolver vs automatic 45's.

Plan to carry this revolver with a short boot grip but have put a full size pair of Houges on for matches and classifying. Will see if I can get some pictures up.

Boats

[Boats]

Finally took a picture of the 625 3 inch. Those Houge grips are not it's regular handle, Use a pair of Spegell small boot grips. However was shooting the IDPA 90 shot classifier with it yesterday so switched to the larger.

Have owned a couple of .45 acp Smiths over the years, 1917 M 25 but think I like this little one best of all

Boats

Edited February 10, 2009 by Boats

[Blueridge]

How did the classifier go? I presume that you were classifying in ESR...

[Boats]

Thats it ESR, Fine I guess, Stage III is hard for me, my over 60 eyes don't see the front sight very well. I only dropped a few Stage I and II ,stage III slowed way down trying to make hits based on hold and grip mostly. Classified Marksman which considering I rarely shoot revolver is not too bad. Cub has a BUG match next month, am going to shoot the 625. Will be able to drop the power factor some for that match too.

Boats

Edited February 8, 2009 by Boats

[Blueridge]

Well my eyes are not as "experienced" as yours are, but I have been using a Ruger Alaskan (2 1/2" barrel) using .45 Colt in IDPA and USPSA for the last 2 years (and a few steel challenge matches). While it has been a challenge to do so, I have become accustomed to shooting at the ranges required for all them. Unfortunately I have not had the chance to get classified with the Alaskan. Either my schedule gets in the way, or the club holding the classifier is too far away to make the trip reasonable (closest IDPA club is 2 hours away). I have never had a problem making power factor, but it helps that the case is larger than that of a 45 ACP. Initially I thought that I could compete in SSR with my Ruger, but the Alaskan weighs too much (by 2 ounces ). Therefore I have to compete in the ESR category.

Basically I think that once you get used to it the short barrel won't hamper you that much.

[Boats]

Blueridge I agree the short barrel is very little handicap. In fact our club rarely runs distances in matches as long as III of the classifier and thats were the sights are more important. You know for years I shot largely on my eyesight. Now I have to pay particular attention to grip and positon. If I knew what I know now then no telling what I could have done. Holding the gun exactly the same everytime is one of the two or three keys.

I may be able to shoot the 635-3 into Sharpshooter, but my failing is shooting too many guns, now want to classify in SSR. I have a couple of revolvers to chose from, none perfect for the job. My idea is to classify with all 5 guns, so when match day comes up I can shoot whatever I feel like. Now the 625 is ready for anything with a plus, now classified in ESR I can shoot my 25-5 4 inch .45 LC in matches. It's the card not the gun.

Boats

Edited February 9, 2009 by Boats

[Blueridge]

I was actually told at a USPSA match rather recently by one of my squad members that a particular stage was not good for a revolver with a barrel as short as my Alaskan ( I get those kinds of comments quite a bit) . He did not expect me to do well on the stage, I smiled and proceeded to show him differently . I don't think that he was trying to be negative, I just don't think that he thought he could have done well with what I use. Accuracy wise I manage to be up there in the mix with the top revolver shooters lately, but overall I don't keep up. My times are constantly getting better though.

I have a 625 (5" barrel if I remember correctly) and the gear to use it in competition, but I like using the Ruger Alaskan too much currently. I might start to use it in Steel Challenge occasionally in the future though.

I plan to make a good showing at the NC Sectionals this May and then look to medal again in the State Games of NC in the USPSA competition in June.

I think that it comes down to my being determined (aka stubborn) to finish in the top 3 revolver shooters (in my class) and finish better than as many auto shooters on a quarter of the stages or better with the Alaskan. Yeah I know that is like ice skating uphill, but how fun it would be to manage it.

Edited February 10, 2009 by Blueridge

[Boats]

Blue Ridge agree with you the 3 inch gives up very little to 4 inches.

The mechanical accuracy difference is probably too slight to measure. Sight radius is a bit less but for action shooting events grip, index, and trigger pull are far more important anyway. You use the sights to confirm rather than align. At the absolute top level against strong competition every little thing counts but at my level 3 inches just makes me work a bit harder to make sure I break good shots. And that’s a positive result. Shots I dropped in that classifier were ALL due to trigger pull and saw every blamed one of them go off.

I find I shoot the M&P 9 Compact just as well in matches as the longer M&P 9 L IDPA is supposed to be a sport that shoots your carry gun anyway.

Enjoyed working with the 625 and appreceate all the help you guys gave me getting it up and running. Thats all from me unless something else comes up.

Boats

Edited February 10, 2009 by Boats