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chirpy

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Just picked up a nice 4" 686 that I want to use in IDPA (Don't say it!). Received a BladeTech (IDPA Approved) holster and tried it on 3 different name brand gun belts. The butt sticks out 2"+ and snags on my vest. This isn't cool in competition let alone CC. Am going to send the holster back. I'm looking for suggestions on another holster to try.

Thanks in advance,

Richard

PS: Yes it still has that ugly hammer spur! Will deal with that later.

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Regarding the ugly hammer spur, a 4"X36" belt sander has the proper radius for removing the spur and blending the hammer to the frame.

Holsters, avoid Side Armor as they have the same problem. I shoot IPSC and ICORE and use an old Gordon Davis holster that holds the revolver where it needs to be but is not IDPA legal. Not a problem for me as I don't shoot with the rule Nazi's anyway.

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Just picked up a nice 4" 686 that I want to use in IDPA (Don't say it!). Received a BladeTech (IDPA Approved) holster and tried it on 3 different name brand gun belts. The butt sticks out 2"+ and snags on my vest. This isn't cool in competition let alone CC. Am going to send the holster back. I'm looking for suggestions on another holster to try.

Thanks in advance,

Richard

PS: Yes it still has that ugly hammer spur! Will deal with that later.

I use Mike Benedict's holsters for most everything including my IDPA revolver. WWW.Talontactical.com Great guy, great service, fair prices and he shoots the game so he knows what you need. If it is a grip problem as stated in the other post, the holster won't change things.

I also use an Alessi belt slide leather holster that works real well for carry and the games.

BTW, where do you have the holster positioned? If the Blade Tech is an IDPA approved holster (There is no longer an IDPA Holster list) and the holster is positioned so that the trigger guard is behind the center line (Pant seam) it should work I would think. (But I have been wrong before <_< )

Edited by Round_Gun_Shooter
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Thanks for the feedback.

No, the grips are not the problem...the revolver is 2"+ away from my side when worn per the rules. Prints like H..L!

IDPA approved is there words not mine.

Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, sight it in or work on the trigger. I have a Dremel (HE, HE, HE!) for the hammer spur.

Anyone had any experience with the Dillon/Mitch Rosen leather holster for the L frame?

Richard

PS: I only shoot IDPA because they changed from USPSA. One of the founders also shoots there!

Edited by chirpy
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Richard - Not a direct answer to your question, but I have a Dillon/Rosen holster for my M&P .45 and it holds the grip well in. My guess is that the L frame version would work as well. I have the older Dillon holster for my 681 (and one for my K frames too) and it's the best L frame carry holster I've seen.

Also, +1 to RGS's recomendation for Talon Tactical. His holsters work well for carry and competition too, and he has excellent customer service.

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Was the holster marked SRB for Sting Ray Belt holster, that is the only one that is close to IDPA legal. I have had to send a couple of them back because the guy that was finishing the holsters was burning the speed cut in the front of the holster too low so that it showed more than an inch of the cylinder. I think that I have got that resolved with them for future orders.

I have to cinch up my belt to get the body gap right and the belt needs to be fairly sturdy.

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Just picked up a nice 4" 686 that I want to use in IDPA (Don't say it!). Received a BladeTech (IDPA Approved) holster and tried it on 3 different name brand gun belts. The butt sticks out 2"+ and snags on my vest. This isn't cool in competition let alone CC. Am going to send the holster back. I'm looking for suggestions on another holster to try.

Thanks in advance,

Richard

PS: Yes it still has that ugly hammer spur! Will deal with that later.

Chirpy I am using a Sidearmor holster for my 625. It's got a huge strut on the back that distributes weight well and holds the gun a bit closer to you. The cant is also easily adjustable so you can get the right angle for your draw. There's no getting around it though, they're heavy guns and you really need to crank down hard on good belt to make them stay upright. I wish I could use my CR Speed belt in IDPA :-/

Here's the holster

02_06_2008_011.sized.jpg

02_06_2008_012.sized.jpg

Back when my 625 still had its hammer spur... and Jerry grips

02_06_2008_013.sized.jpg

I've switched to Houge grips because they're a bit easier on my hands, but they REALLY caught up on my vest until I took one of the silly internal pockets out of the back. The grip would get inside the pocket and would not let go. That's another thing you can check on, if your vest has pockets everywhere it may be hanging up on one.

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I guess I should have included this in the original post but I didn't. I am cranking down on the belt/s! Even had to add another hole on one. The grips are 30+ year old Hogue 2 piece wood that I have had laying around for years because I haven't had a revolver until now after selling my old one. I can't understand my having this problem. Blade Tech is a quality product and I had never heard of this happening.

Thanks,

Richard

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