ede Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 my 610 has a wider trigger. hard to measure but it looks like the 610 is around 7/16" and the 625 is 5/16". based more on feel than preformance i like the 625s trigger better and am thinking of getting the same width trigger for the 610. is there anything i'm over looking or should consider before doing this. i'm fairly new to revolver competition and have much more to learn than what i know. thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Going from memory, triggers can be the following: .265 serrated .312 smooth .400 serrated .400 smooth .500 serrated I am sure I probably forgot something but those are the basics. I know many prefer the .312 smooth, but with very little feeling in my fingers, I prefer the .400 serrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 RGS pretty much hit it on the head. I too preferr the .400 wide, but like it smooth. Triggers are like pretty women. Come in all sizes !!!! Hop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 If you can take you revo apart and have a Dremel you can take a little off at a time until it is to you liking. Dremel can be a four letter word so you might want someone experienced to do it. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Join the Rotarty Tool Institute! I think Carmoney is teaching the classes again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sinko Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Right... And which Dremel bit is used to cut the grooves into the trigger? ANYBODY can remove them, but I'm still waiting for the gunsmith who can cut them into my smooth triggers, the same width, depth and spacing as on the factory .265" triggers. Damn the MIM parts and smooth triggers! Dave Sinko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Right... And which Dremel bit is used to cut the grooves into the trigger? ANYBODY can remove them, but I'm still waiting for the gunsmith who can cut them into my smooth triggers, the same width, depth and spacing as on the factory .265" triggers. Damn the MIM parts and smooth triggers!Dave Sinko To cut the grooves you will need the cut off wheel and several empty beer bottles. You may regret the results but the process can be extremely entertaining for your friends. -ld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Right... And which Dremel bit is used to cut the grooves into the trigger? ANYBODY can remove them, but I'm still waiting for the gunsmith who can cut them into my smooth triggers, the same width, depth and spacing as on the factory .265" triggers. Damn the MIM parts and smooth triggers!Dave Sinko Believe it or not, skateboard tape solves the problem rather nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Right... And which Dremel bit is used to cut the grooves into the trigger? ANYBODY can remove them, but I'm still waiting for the gunsmith who can cut them into my smooth triggers, the same width, depth and spacing as on the factory .265" triggers. Damn the MIM parts and smooth triggers!Dave Sinko To cut the grooves you will need the cut off wheel and several empty beer bottles. You may regret the results but the process can be extremely entertaining for your friends. -ld I'm not sure of the proper beer factor, but I would guess it at about 8-9 bph (beers per hour) befor starting that project. I suggest 2-3 hours of prep time before starting. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 I believe smooth, narrow, rounded triggers are best for most shooters. The reason is that most shooters will do their best in double-action mode by pulling the trigger with the distal joint (not the pad) of the index finger. And when pulling the trigger with the joint, you want some "slip" between trigger and finger or the gun tends to be moved sideways as the action is cycled. I'm willing to admit this is a matter of personal taste, but until Jerry put out his DVD, most serious revolver people preferred smooth, narrow, round triggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Damn the MIM parts and smooth triggers! And I repeat: MIM parts are not a problem on S&W revolvers. I can afford to shoot whatever revolvers I want, and the guns I choose for USPSA competition have MIM parts. There is no downside that I can perceive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Shooter Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 I believe smooth, narrow, rounded triggers are best for most shooters. The reason is that most shooters will do their best in double-action mode by pulling the trigger with the distal joint (not the pad) of the index finger. And when pulling the trigger with the joint, you want some "slip" between trigger and finger or the gun tends to be moved sideways as the action is cycled. I'm willing to admit this is a matter of personal taste, but until Jerry put out his DVD, most serious revolver people preferred smooth, narrow, round triggers. I agree....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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