HitEcRedNek Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Hi, I've been shooting revolvers for years, but only recently have I become intrested in taking it beyond the club level (shoot what ya brung) and trying Ipsc or Idpa. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the rules.... 1-can a 625 be used in Ipsc, with moon clips and minor loads? 2-can a six inch M-19 be used in Ipsc, with minor 38 special loads? 3-can a 625 be used in Idpa, in SSR, with rimmed brass and speedloaders? Is there any advantage in doing so over shooting a K-frame with 38 specials? thats it for now, but I'll have more once I get going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Hi, I've been shooting revolvers for years, but only recently have I become intrested in taking it beyond the club level (shoot what ya brung) and trying Ipsc or Idpa. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the rules.... 1-can a 625 be used in Ipsc, with moon clips and minor loads? 2-can a six inch M-19 be used in Ipsc, with minor 38 special loads? 3-can a 625 be used in Idpa, in SSR, with rimmed brass and speedloaders? Is there any advantage in doing so over shooting a K-frame with 38 specials? thats it for now, but I'll have more once I get going 1 - Yes 2 - Yes 3 - Don't know, Homie don't play that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viggen Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Hi, I've been shooting revolvers for years, but only recently have I become intrested in taking it beyond the club level (shoot what ya brung) and trying Ipsc or Idpa. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the rules.... 1-can a 625 be used in Ipsc, with moon clips and minor loads? 2-can a six inch M-19 be used in Ipsc, with minor 38 special loads? 3-can a 625 be used in Idpa, in SSR, with rimmed brass and speedloaders? Is there any advantage in doing so over shooting a K-frame with 38 specials? thats it for now, but I'll have more once I get going 1 - Yes 2 - Yes 3 - Don't know, Homie don't play that. Just like WalterM says....1,2,3 You can run minor in IPSC/USPSA - just be accurate. You just need to make 125PF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitEcRedNek Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 thanks, I thought I had read the rules right, but Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagz Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Another newbie query: Is there a proper way to "break-in: a new 625? What's your suggested routine? what to watch out for? How can I verify the serial number? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 thanks, I thought I had read the rules right, but Just to qualify #3 Answer is Yes if the barrel is 4" or less. As to an advantage, there really is none. The larger bullets are an advantage but the lack of good speed loaders is a draw back. Making Power Factor for IDPA SSR is not always easy with the 38spl but it can be done. Don't think because you have factory ammo it makes power factor. Make sure you Crono the loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Another newbie query: Is there a proper way to "break-in: a new 625?What's your suggested routine? what to watch out for? How can I verify the serial number? Thanks. Proper way to break in a new revolver of any kind is go to the range and shoot it. Get yourself about 1000 rounds, some targets, some pasters, a timer and shoot it some more. As for the serial number, on a S&W pull off the grips and look at the butt. That is the only official serial number. There are others, they are many times accurate, but the one on the butt end of the grip frame is the one you go by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 I would guess the way most competitive revolver shooters would "break in" a new revolver is to have a competent gunsmith or revosmith do an action job on the trigger. Basically smoothing the action and reducing trigger pull. Jerry Miculek noted on one of his videos that doing a trigger job was basically doing the same thing as firing about 10,000 rounds. It just smoothes everything inside. As for the serial number. If it is new, the number should match the number on the box it came in. Other than that, I don't know. fwiw dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 #3 I believe is actually No as the 625 is 1oz heavier than the max weight for IDPA SSR. I had looked in to it as I wanted to use my 625 in SSR and ESR so I could get my 5 gun status in IDPA. Amazingly, if you want to go with 4 gun instead, they want it done with SSR only. Take care, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Jerry Miculek noted on one of his videos that doing a trigger job was basically doing the same thing as firing about 10,000 rounds. It just smoothes everything inside. Yeah, but shooting (or dry-firing) a revolver 10,000 times isn't going to do much to change the fact that stock S&W revolvers are almost always ridiculously oversprung, with unnecessarily heavy double-action trigger pulls, at least for competitive shooting purposes anyway. Shooting (or dry-firing) a S&W revolver 10,000 times will not correct a misaligned yoke, or adjust the headspace and cylinder gap, or straighten a bent ejector rod, all of which are problems you often see with brand new revolvers straight out of the box. These days, when I acquire a new revolver, I do the action job immediately. In my view, there's not any point even shooting the thing until the trigger pull is brought within reasonable parameters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Jerry Miculek noted on one of his videos that doing a trigger job was basically doing the same thing as firing about 10,000 rounds. It just smoothes everything inside. Yeah, but shooting (or dry-firing) a revolver 10,000 times isn't going to do much to change the fact that stock S&W revolvers are almost always ridiculously oversprung, with unnecessarily heavy double-action trigger pulls, at least for competitive shooting purposes anyway. Shooting (or dry-firing) a S&W revolver 10,000 times will not correct a misaligned yoke, or adjust the headspace and cylinder gap, or straighten a bent ejector rod, all of which are problems you often see with brand new revolvers straight out of the box. These days, when I acquire a new revolver, I do the action job immediately. In my view, there's not any point even shooting the thing until the trigger pull is brought within reasonable parameters. I agree. I have the JM dvd and have seen the statement. It probably puts some perspective on how aggressive you should, or rather, should not be on stoning various parts; so it's a good place to start, but it's the tip of the iceberg on what must be done to a S&W revolver to get anywhere near its' potential. I probably still put a couple of boxes of full power factory ammo through any brand new gun I buy so I can get a warranty replacement if something major is wrong, but if the basic gun is sound, the work has just begun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viggen Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Before shooting any new Smith it might be wise to deburr and put most parts to a buffer. Of course an action job will take care of that but for starters a buffer is very necessary. QC is not their strong point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitEcRedNek Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 taildragger- so, I would need a M-22 to make weight for SSR/45 AR-acp; good excuse to buy another gun! ( I want one anyhow, old school class!) dagz- jerry miculek has a really good DVD that shows step by step how to a basic action job; I've done it his way on 4 or 5 guns and haven't busted any yet. And-another noob question:. do you have to retain your speedloaders after a reload like the bottomfeeders have to retain mags? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
festus1 Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 HitEcRedNek, No need to retain a moonclip on a reload IF there are no live rounds in it. Same goes for loose rounds - if no live rounds then dump on the ground. I tried my 625 in SSR with Auto Rim brass just for fun this past spring. One match spent picking brass was enough. The 125 PF was pleasant though. With a Ti cylinder and spurless Randy hammer my 625 V-comp weighs in at 38.9 ounces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 HitEcRedNek, No need to retain a moonclip on a reload IF there are no live rounds in it. Same goes for loose rounds - if no live rounds then dump on the ground. I tried my 625 in SSR with Auto Rim brass just for fun this past spring. One match spent picking brass was enough. The 125 PF was pleasant though. With a Ti cylinder and spurless Randy hammer my 625 V-comp weighs in at 38.9 ounces. You can throw the speedloader on the ground since it has (hopefully) no rounds in it. And, as mentioned, you can throw a moonclip down as long as there are no live rounds in it. Good point on the Ti cylinder. That ought to drop it down into SSR weights easily. I agree about picking up spent auto rim cases... I've only been shooting Revo for a few matches now and I LOVE picking up moonclips as compared to picking up brass from my bottom feeders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagz Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 (edited) Thanks for the inputs and replies. The serial number I saw on the 625-8 was sort of a laser etching/printing on the hinge that holds the cylinder(I apologize for my choice of words/terms used). As long as you don't warn me of any batch number to watch out I think my order will be fine. I opted for the 5 inch barrel(I am happy to find that there are still a few around here in the Philippines) since I'll be shooting it in IPSC-PPSA matches. IDPA is not that popular here, at least not yet. I figured revolver shooters are a rare breed(if my calculations are correct, barely 5% [or less] of PPSA total population). And I wanted to learn this discipline. What holster do you prefer for IPSC? (The issues on moon clips and moon clip holder are pretty well covered in this forum) Again thanks. All of you have been very helpful. -dagz Edited June 20, 2008 by dagz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chemepharmd Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 What holster do you prefer for IPSC? (The issues on moon clips and moon clip holder are pretty well covered in this forum) Not sure what everyone else uses, but mine is a CR Speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 What holster do you prefer for IPSC? (The issues on moon clips and moon clip holder are pretty well covered in this forum) Not sure what everyone else uses, but mine is a CR Speed. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 What holster do you prefer for IPSC? (The issues on moon clips and moon clip holder are pretty well covered in this forum) Not sure what everyone else uses, but mine is a CR Speed. +1 +2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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