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What 625 model is best for trigger work?


Matt Griffin

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Houngan, I'm not an expert but it makes lettle difference. You can go lower on DA pull with the frame mounted. I used to think the other way until I tried a few of the frame mounted ones. I don't use the 625 even though I have one. I am not happy with the way "I" can shoot it. :angry2: I use the L frame revos.

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Houngan, I'm not an expert but it makes lettle difference. You can go lower on DA pull with the frame mounted. I used to think the other way until I tried a few of the frame mounted ones. I don't use the 625 even though I have one. I am not happy with the way "I" can shoot it. :angry2: I use the L frame revos.

I'm in the same boat Bubber.I can shoot a N frame pretty quick,or I can shoot an N frame pretty accurately,just not both at the same time.And as far as reloads go,I'm so slow the big holes and good moonclips are a wash too.Mike mine a K or L please.-Mike

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The -3's will still have the silly floating hand. Not the worst thing in the world to replace, but obviously easier if you don't.

Most of the 625-3s I've seen do not have the floating hand. That was actually one of the design changes when they switched to 625-3, but some of the earlier guns left the factory with the floating hand. (Typical of S&W, they always try to use up everything they have laying around, even when they know if doesn't work real well....)

The floating hand is pretty easy to fix, just take off the hand, pull the pin, and replace with a traditional hand.

For a gun to shoot, I wouldn't avoid anything other than a 625-2 (and I wouldn't avoid one of those if the price was right). My personal favorite of the lot is the 625-6, which in .45 ACP is generally found with a frame-mounted FP and (gasp!) MIM parts, but no key-lock.

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Many shooters who have guns with frame mounted firing pins complain bitterly that they can not fire loose rounds and are useless without the moonclips. All three of my 625s are -4 versions with hammer mounted firing pins and they DO fire loose rounds. I even trimmed some brass to see how short I can go and it fired everything DA, including .45 GAP as long as the gun wasn't pointed straight down. Most competitive shooters won't care about this, but all my revolvers see service use so I always seek out revolvers with hammer mounted firing pins.

Dave Sinko

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I have 2 625-3's. One has the floating hand, the other does not. Both have hammer mounted firing pins. Both run 100% and fire all 45acp cartrdges, regardless of primer brand and with or without moonclips. Sure, the triggers could be slicker, lighter, etc. But they're good enough for me.

Gary

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625-3's. One has the floating hand, the other does not

Gary

I have one "model of 1989 625", don't know the -#,it is a hammer mounted firing pin, don't even know what exactly is a floating hand and why the regular one is lot better.

Please explain.

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:surprise:

Seems "MIM" parts have and undeserved bad name the only ones that Ive ran into

that are junk are some of the Para early parts and I cured that problem with having

them cryo treated, Ive sorta just started to mess with S&W revolvers see no problem

with their MIM parts if I should doubt some of them Id take them over to the CRYO place

and get em froze up.

Jim/Pa

Sailaors :devil::ph34r::D

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625-3's. One has the floating hand, the other does not

Gary

I have one "model of 1989 625", don't know the -#,it is a hammer mounted firing pin, don't even know what exactly is a floating hand and why the regular one is lot better.

Please explain.

Open the cylinder and look inside at the frame where the yoke enters, you'll see the -X number designation.

Mine's a -4, and I'm in the market for a backup gun, or a primary if I can get the trigger even lower. Since these are strictly competition guns, trigger pull does make a big difference in ease of use.

H.

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Ive sorta just started to mess with S&W revolvers see no problem with their MIM parts if I should doubt some of them Id take them over to the CRYO place

and get em froze up.

Watch out for those cryopractors....always trying to convince you to do more treatments and pay more money! ;)

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The -3's will still have the silly floating hand. Not the worst thing in the world to replace, but obviously easier if you don't.

Most of the 625-3s I've seen do not have the floating hand. That was actually one of the design changes when they switched to 625-3, but some of the earlier guns left the factory with the floating hand. (Typical of S&W, they always try to use up everything they have laying around, even when they know if doesn't work real well....)

The floating hand is pretty easy to fix, just take off the hand, pull the pin, and replace with a traditional hand.

For a gun to shoot, I wouldn't avoid anything other than a 625-2 (and I wouldn't avoid one of those if the price was right). My personal favorite of the lot is the 625-6, which in .45 ACP is generally found with a frame-mounted FP and (gasp!) MIM parts, but no key-lock.

what about the trigger on newer modles like the 625-8 R they OK.

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:roflol:

Ive got some Para LDA's out their with some pretty nice triggers on them,Its hard as heck to

get the sears to stay at the right angle unless I have them cryogenically treated,Ive also done

some of para's barrels in a before an after grouping= all the barrels I did this with tightend

up with grouping after the cryo treat. Im sold on the process, the fella I have do this treating

does cutting blades of various kinds for conagra and they say it improve the life of the blades

as much as 40 %.He Does airplane engine parts for those folks who race the pylons seen some of

their dyno test results it is allmost unbeleavable.

Jim/Pa

Sailors :sight::devil::sight:B)

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