Newbie reloader/shooter

[Bigpops]

Hello all!

I recently purchased a Brazo High Performance Edge, and yesterday I ordered a 550 press from Brian. I have been researching, and researching a good load and have been recommended the following;

OAL - 1.22

Powder - 5.0gr VV N320

Primer - WSP or WSR

Brass - Remington

Bullett - 180gr Montana Gold JHP

All sounds great to me (hey...I'm new) My question is this - can I shoot this load in my Sig P226 also? And...what are your thoughts on this load to begin with?

Thanks,

BP

[mjbine]

Hello all!

I recently purchased a Brazo High Performance Edge, and yesterday I ordered a 550 press from Brian. I have been researching, and researching a good load and have been recommended the following;

OAL - 1.22

Powder - 5.0gr VV N320

Primer - WSP or WSR

Brass - Remington

Bullett - 180gr Montana Gold JHP

All sounds great to me (hey...I'm new) My question is this - can I shoot this load in my Sig P226 also? And...what are your thoughts on this load to begin with?

Thanks,

BP

I would worry about the oal. They might not fit in the P226 mags.

[00bullitt]

Nope.......too long for the Sig.

I think OAL max for the Sig mag is 1.145"

The load data is a good load. If you want to save some money and get the same performance......you might consider replacing VV N320 with Titegroup or Solo 1000. VV powders are way overpriced and hard to obtain.

I also don't care to load longer than 1.185" but I have my reasons.

[bkeeler]

Hello all!

I recently purchased a Brazo High Performance Edge, and yesterday I ordered a 550 press from Brian. I have been researching, and researching a good load and have been recommended the following;

OAL - 1.22

Powder - 5.0gr VV N320

Primer - WSP or WSR

Brass - Remington

Bullett - 180gr Montana Gold JHP

All sounds great to me (hey...I'm new) My question is this - can I shoot this load in my Sig P226 also? And...what are your thoughts on this load to begin with?

Thanks,

BP

Use the load data that Bob gave you I would use Titegroup. The load data Bob gave me has been great! (for your EDGE)

BK

Edited April 2, 2008 by bkeeler

[SA Friday]

TG, N320 and Solo 1000 are all great powders, but I would recommend a powder that would fill the case a bit more. I would recommend Universal Clays instead. I say this because you stated you were new to reloading/shooting and you are using a 550. There is nothing wrong with a 550 or being new, but as a new reloader it will be easier to identify a double charge or no charge of powder while reloading if you are using a powder that fills the case more. This will be safer as you learn IMO. After you get some good reloading habits and experience under you, then you can look at moving to some of the faster burning powders.

I started out with UC in my 40 cal reloads for these reasons, and have stuck with it.

[Bigpops]

TG, N320 and Solo 1000 are all great powders, but I would recommend a powder that would fill the case a bit more. I would recommend Universal Clays instead. I say this because you stated you were new to reloading/shooting and you are using a 550. There is nothing wrong with a 550 or being new, but as a new reloader it will be easier to identify a double charge or no charge of powder while reloading if you are using a powder that fills the case more. This will be safer as you learn IMO. After you get some good reloading habits and experience under you, then you can look at moving to some of the faster burning powders.

I started out with UC in my 40 cal reloads for these reasons, and have stuck with it.

I appreciate your concern. Trust me...I plan to be EXTRA careful. My job is testing aircraft and I plan to use those same QA skills (plus some) while reloading.

I have ordered two books and two DVD's....and have someone helping me on the first go-around.

Short of wearing a body condom, I am covered pretty well.

[Lee Bell]

TG, N320 and Solo 1000 are all great powders, but I would recommend a powder that would fill the case a bit more. I would recommend Universal Clays instead. I say this because you stated you were new to reloading/shooting and you are using a 550. There is nothing wrong with a 550 or being new, but as a new reloader it will be easier to identify a double charge or no charge of powder while reloading if you are using a powder that fills the case more. This will be safer as you learn IMO. After you get some good reloading habits and experience under you, then you can look at moving to some of the faster burning powders.

I started out with UC in my 40 cal reloads for these reasons, and have stuck with it.

I appreciate your concern. Trust me...I plan to be EXTRA careful. My job is testing aircraft and I plan to use those same QA skills (plus some) while reloading.

I have ordered two books and two DVD's....and have someone helping me on the first go-around.

Short of wearing a body condom, I am covered pretty well.

SA Friday gave you some very good advise. Those that "are covered pretty well" when they start reloading often find out that they're not as covered as they thought. It is very easy to double charge with a 550 B. That's experience talking. My press is a 550 B. What you did in a past life does not prepare you to reload safely. Experience reloading does.

Quite a few competitive shooters load with Universal, even after they have the experience to use other powders safely. Personally, I started volume loading with Bullseye which, while not a bulky, is bulkier than the TiteGroup I currently use.

A couple of suggestions for you relative to reloading:

1. I suggest against using rifle primers, at least at first. Rifle primers tend to burn hotter and can increase pressure significantly. Those that use them generally didn't start with them. They started with pistol primers and worked their way up to the rifle primers.

2. Nobody can tell you just what formula is best for you. Different guns, even two as alike as possible, don't always like the same formula. Try a variety of powders, a variety of bullet types, weights and brands, and a variety of primers. Tune your powder and your powder to your gun. See what you, and your gun like best, then refine it until you have the best results possible.

3. Get a chronograph. Our sport is one of time, accuracy and power. It takes practice to shorten times and accuracy, but you have the ability to dial in the right power from the start, but you'll need a chronograph to do it. You'll want to understand what power factor you have and how it is affected by temperature.

4. Do not take anyone's word that any formula anywhere near the max recommended for the bullet and powder you choose, is right or even safe. Start low and work your way up to whatever you prefer. Watch for signs of pressure problems. Don't push it until you understand what those signs are.

Lee

[Bigpops]

TG, N320 and Solo 1000 are all great powders, but I would recommend a powder that would fill the case a bit more. I would recommend Universal Clays instead. I say this because you stated you were new to reloading/shooting and you are using a 550. There is nothing wrong with a 550 or being new, but as a new reloader it will be easier to identify a double charge or no charge of powder while reloading if you are using a powder that fills the case more. This will be safer as you learn IMO. After you get some good reloading habits and experience under you, then you can look at moving to some of the faster burning powders.

I started out with UC in my 40 cal reloads for these reasons, and have stuck with it.

I appreciate your concern. Trust me...I plan to be EXTRA careful. My job is testing aircraft and I plan to use those same QA skills (plus some) while reloading.

I have ordered two books and two DVD's....and have someone helping me on the first go-around.

Short of wearing a body condom, I am covered pretty well.

SA Friday gave you some very good advise. Those that "are covered pretty well" when they start reloading often find out that they're not as covered as they thought. It is very easy to double charge with a 550 B. That's experience talking. My press is a 550 B. What you did in a past life does not prepare you to reload safely. Experience reloading does.

Quite a few competitive shooters load with Universal, even after they have the experience to use other powders safely. Personally, I started volume loading with Bullseye which, while not a bulky, is bulkier than the TiteGroup I currently use.

A couple of suggestions for you relative to reloading:

1. I suggest against using rifle primers, at least at first. Rifle primers tend to burn hotter and can increase pressure significantly. Those that use them generally didn't start with them. They started with pistol primers and worked their way up to the rifle primers.

2. Nobody can tell you just what formula is best for you. Different guns, even two as alike as possible, don't always like the same formula. Try a variety of powders, a variety of bullet types, weights and brands, and a variety of primers. Tune your powder and your powder to your gun. See what you, and your gun like best, then refine it until you have the best results possible.

3. Get a chronograph. Our sport is one of time, accuracy and power. It takes practice to shorten times and accuracy, but you have the ability to dial in the right power from the start, but you'll need a chronograph to do it. You'll want to understand what power factor you have and how it is affected by temperature.

4. Do not take anyone's word that any formula anywhere near the max recommended for the bullet and powder you choose, is right or even safe. Start low and work your way up to whatever you prefer. Watch for signs of pressure problems. Don't push it until you understand what those signs are.

Lee

Thank you all!

Re reading my earlier response - I realize that sounds a little bold. Not meant that way.

Trust me when i say I am apprehensive. I have been reading EVERYTHING and taking it all in. I will double check, triple check, etc, etc.

Chrony ordered!

Again, thanks for the advice and concern.

Hell, where do you all live? I am in Maryland...come help me!

BP

[Bigpops]

TG, N320 and Solo 1000 are all great powders, but I would recommend a powder that would fill the case a bit more. I would recommend Universal Clays instead. I say this because you stated you were new to reloading/shooting and you are using a 550. There is nothing wrong with a 550 or being new, but as a new reloader it will be easier to identify a double charge or no charge of powder while reloading if you are using a powder that fills the case more. This will be safer as you learn IMO. After you get some good reloading habits and experience under you, then you can look at moving to some of the faster burning powders.

I started out with UC in my 40 cal reloads for these reasons, and have stuck with it.

I appreciate your concern. Trust me...I plan to be EXTRA careful. My job is testing aircraft and I plan to use those same QA skills (plus some) while reloading.

I have ordered two books and two DVD's....and have someone helping me on the first go-around.

Short of wearing a body condom, I am covered pretty well.

SA Friday gave you some very good advise. Those that "are covered pretty well" when they start reloading often find out that they're not as covered as they thought. It is very easy to double charge with a 550 B. That's experience talking. My press is a 550 B. What you did in a past life does not prepare you to reload safely. Experience reloading does.

Quite a few competitive shooters load with Universal, even after they have the experience to use other powders safely. Personally, I started volume loading with Bullseye which, while not a bulky, is bulkier than the TiteGroup I currently use.

A couple of suggestions for you relative to reloading:

1. I suggest against using rifle primers, at least at first. Rifle primers tend to burn hotter and can increase pressure significantly. Those that use them generally didn't start with them. They started with pistol primers and worked their way up to the rifle primers.

2. Nobody can tell you just what formula is best for you. Different guns, even two as alike as possible, don't always like the same formula. Try a variety of powders, a variety of bullet types, weights and brands, and a variety of primers. Tune your powder and your powder to your gun. See what you, and your gun like best, then refine it until you have the best results possible.

3. Get a chronograph. Our sport is one of time, accuracy and power. It takes practice to shorten times and accuracy, but you have the ability to dial in the right power from the start, but you'll need a chronograph to do it. You'll want to understand what power factor you have and how it is affected by temperature.

4. Do not take anyone's word that any formula anywhere near the max recommended for the bullet and powder you choose, is right or even safe. Start low and work your way up to whatever you prefer. Watch for signs of pressure problems. Don't push it until you understand what those signs are.

Lee

Thank you all!

Re reading my earlier response - I realize that sounds a little bold. Not meant that way.

Trust me when i say I am apprehensive. I have been reading EVERYTHING and taking it all in. I will double check, triple check, etc, etc.

Chrony ordered!

Again, thanks for the advice and concern.

Hell, where do you all live? I am in Maryland...come help me!

BP

Quick question (please keep in mind that I have not received my manuals yet)....can i simply weigh my newly loaded rounds after I have finished to verify uniformity and to eliminate double loads?

[Jman]

Yes you can. Using a digital scale makes that "double check" easy.

Jim M

[Bigpops]

Yes you can. Using a digital scale makes that "double check" easy.

Jim M

Do most of you double check in that fashion?

[Jman]

No. Most experienced reloaders visually check each case after the powder drop. Thats why it's important to use a bulkier powder when starting out. Universal Clays as mentioned by SA Friday is a good choice because it is very easy to see. I might weigh one loaded round in a thousand to check after being interrupted. Usually due to my beautiful wife distracting me. I just yell EXPLOSIVES!!! and her blue eyes get big and she runs off for a few hours.

Jim M

[98sr20ve]

It is very easy to double charge with a 550 B. That's experience talking. My press is a 550 B. What you did in a past life does not prepare you to reload safely. Experience reloading does.

Seat the bullet in station two just before you index the press and just after looking in the case for powder. Greatly reduces chance of squib and double charge. If you try and pull the handle twice the bullet is in the way.

[98sr20ve]

Quick question (please keep in mind that I have not received my manuals yet)....can i simply weigh my newly loaded rounds after I have finished to verify uniformity and to eliminate double loads?

No the case to case variation is too great and masks powder differences. You need to look in every case and be 100% positive you did not squib of double. A good light is helpfull

This is what happens if you try and double charge with the bullet already in station #2

[G-ManBart]

Quick question (please keep in mind that I have not received my manuals yet)....can i simply weigh my newly loaded rounds after I have finished to verify uniformity and to eliminate double loads?

Nope, won't work. Case to case, bullet to bullet and charge to charge variation all add up such that there's no way of telling by weighing loaded cases.

The load data you suggested is probably going to put you right about what you'll need to make major with a little cushion. I started off with 5.0gr of N320, Zero 180 JHP at 1.20" in my Dawson Supertuned Edge and it was around a 177 PF....just had to back it down a touch and it's a great load. N320 burns clean and is very soft shooting.

[CMV]

98sr20ve: "A good light is helpfull"

Where did you get that light if you don't mind? I like the ability to direct it and to have the lamp head not be in your way.

Edited for poor typing

Edited April 4, 2008 by CMV

[ChrisStock]

Bigpops,

Welcome aboard! I was in your same shoes a year ago myself. With the help of folks here and those I have met locally shooting at matches, I have learned a ton of things that I most likely would have never figured out alone. You've definitely made it to the right place to get rolling quickly.

I also bought a 550B from our host, and a good light shining onto station 2 is an excellent suggestion and a must have IMO. I also use a very bulky shotgun powder for my pistol loads, Alliant Promo, and it fills 9MM and .40 cases close enough to the top, making it physically impossible to double charge without dumping powder all over the shell plate.

The light comes in handy to ensure that no squibs are loaded, as it is very apparent where the top of the powder should be, and if if it is too little, you can snatch that round out of rotation and check your powder die and reservoir for obstruction. I picked up a gooseneck desk light from Office Depot for $5, and it serves this purpose wonderfully.

Quick side story related to above... I once had a marathon bullet pulling session and dumped all of the powder back into the reservoir for reloading. As careful as I was, a 115GR bullet made it into the powder reservoir. After 2 bad powder drops, I checked the powder die, and it appeared ok. I then dumped the powder reservoir and found the culprit. The desktop light saved me from making a ton of squibs which might have spelled disaster.

Feel free to post all of your questions here, and don't worry, I put up my share of them and got all of the answers I needed. We'll help you out through whatever it takes. Be safe and have fun!

[98sr20ve]

98sr20ve: "A good light is helpfull"

Where did you get that light if you don't mind? I like the ability to direct it and to have the lamp head not be in your way.

Edited for poor typing

Thats a $9.99 Harbour Frieght light. Comes in a two pack. You want to use the big one with the AA batteries. Also drill a hole into a .45ACP case add some poster putty and you have a adjustable holder for the end.

[sig2009]

Yes you can. Using a digital scale makes that "double check" easy.

Jim M

This method does not work! The reason is even if using all the same manuf brass the weights are all different and the weights can and do swing even to the high side over what you measure on the scale a case with bullet and a double charge of powder.

[CMV]

98sr20ve: "A good light is helpfull"

Where did you get that light if you don't mind? I like the ability to direct it and to have the lamp head not be in your way.

Edited for poor typing

Thats a $9.99 Harbour Frieght light. Comes in a two pack. You want to use the big one with the AA batteries. Also drill a hole into a .45ACP case add some poster putty and you have a adjustable holder for the end.

Awesome, Thanks

[Jman]

Yes you can. Using a digital scale makes that "double check" easy.

Jim M

This method does not work! The reason is even if using all the same manuf brass the weights are all different and the weights can and do swing even to the high side over what you measure on the scale a case with bullet and a double charge of powder.

Thank you for the opportunity to clarify. Secondly, my apologies to anyone I may have mislead. As I answered in post #12 no experienced reloader weighs loaded rounds to check powder drop weight. My crappy response may have given the impression that I do as a matter of course. I don't. Sorry. My standard 180gr 40 loads weigh an average of 257 grains loaded with 6.5grs of Longshot. Believe it or not I caught a squib like this many years ago. Hey at least I caught it. You are right sig and as I indicated back on post #12 we watch what we do not weigh what we did.

Jim M

[Bigpops]

Thanks again to you all. Especially for the pictures!

Trust me when i say ...you will be hearing more from me. I have a ton of questions!