Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

S&W Revolver shoots right handed but not left?


rr4406pak

Recommended Posts

Check with S&W to see if they have a warranty repair gunsmith close. Maybe they do so you can take it directly to him/her and show them what the revolver does. Failing all else you may need to sell it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a 625 this summer and noticed the thing was shooting WAY right. 10" - 12" at 25 yards. Didn't think it was a technique issue..shot revos alot before switching to "bottom feeders" for a few years. Had a few others shoot it and called S&W.

During the shooting session, I noticed the BBL was screwed in too far (front sight clocked to the left). Told them that and they said it was a technique issue. I said NOOOO!!! and after a bit of discussion they email a label and fixed the "problem" by unscrewing the bbl so the sight is at 12 o'clock. It shoots dead nuts now.

Maybe take it to a match and get some ideas from other shooters or have a 'smith look at it then call them.

Be persistent and Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now I'm getting confused. I am looking at mine right now and on the barrel it says Model of 1989. Was there also a Model of 1988? I can't remember. Mine does not have tight chambers. Cases load and extract fine and accuracy is excellent with cast bullets. At this point I'd have to say that if S&W still made revolvers like they made this one I'd have nothing to complain about.

Dave Sinko

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He means Model of 1988.

The Model of 1988 (625-2) was the one with the problems. Tight chambers and floating hand. Both of which are fairly easy to fix, if you have the stuff. I recommend people avoid the Model of 1988s as shooters unless they can acquire them cheap enough to cover the cost of the gunsmithing work necessary to make them shootable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The floating hand was not limited to the 625 series, was it? Oversize chambers are inexcusable no matter how you look at it. If you're gonna make an otherwise good gun and screw it up because of laziness, incompetence or labor/management issues then I'd prefer that those problems can be easily corrected on the first attempt by a good gunsmith. I'd rather NOT have to return the gun for a new barrel or cylinder or whatever. ALL guns have issues; some are simply more severe than others. I don't buy very many guns but when I do buy one I always sweat out that first trip to the range. How will it perform? Will it let me down? Will it be a piece of junk? You just never know. In some ways it's even more important than evaluating your future wife.

Dave Sinko

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He means Model of 1988.

The Model of 1988 (625-2) was the one with the problems. Tight chambers and floating hand. Both of which are fairly easy to fix, if you have the stuff. I recommend people avoid the Model of 1988s as shooters unless they can acquire them cheap enough to cover the cost of the gunsmithing work necessary to make them shootable.

That must be right. 1988 not 1989.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a Mo. 27 with the same problem. Turns out it was the trigger pivot pin that was bent. The trigger didnt sit properly, and when your finger sat on the trigger differently that straight on and you cam the trigger over instead of back it would do the same thing.

Try calling the Performance center instead of one of the monkeys at the phones that may or may not know much about the guns per se.......Ask to talk to a revolver smith and tell them it sounds like the trigger pivot pin is bent, then tell them what is going on and that it is a new gun.

I love Smith and Wesson and the guns, but not so much all the people there with their east coast attitude......my east coast friends know exactly what I mean...... B);):cheers:

Good luck,

DougC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a mighty kind offer sir.

With these gas prices by the time I got out there I'd have spent enough to buy another (non-functional) new one...

Thanks for the offer though!

If you're still having problems we can meet at the Genessee Conservation League some Tuesday night and you can try my 610. If it's technique you should have the same problem with mine (which I doubt you will). At least you'll be able to truthfully tell S&W that its not you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turns out I took it to a local gunsmith because he did not believe me.

He practically laughed at me.

When I showed him his jaw about hit the floor.

Said he's never seen anything like that.

At that moment.... it stopped doing it!

It started to work left handed as well as right.

I could not repeat the left handed failure any longer.

At least the guy knew I was not crazy because he saw it for himself!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At least the guy knew I was not crazy because he saw it for himself!

Did you get a certified document proving you're not crazy or is this just hearsay? ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turns out I took it to a local gunsmith because he did not believe me.

He practically laughed at me.

When I showed him his jaw about hit the floor.

Said he's never seen anything like that.

At that moment.... it stopped doing it!

It started to work left handed as well as right.

I could not repeat the left handed failure any longer.

At least the guy knew I was not crazy because he saw it for himself!

I notice a difference in all the S&W revolvers I 've had between a right hand trigger pull and a left hand trigger pull. When I pull the trigger with my right hand, I can make it the cylinder stop engage the cylinder before the hammer falls. When pulling the trigger left handed, that's more difficult to do. Most of the time the hammer falls and the cylinder stop engages the cylinder slot simultaneously.

I have never seen the problem you have, but I certainly believe this can happen. You can put a lot of leverage on the trigger to one side, and change the functioning of the gun when doing so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Spook said, this shows up in LOTS of S&W revolvers, IF your "Trigger Finger" is SENSITIVE enuff...it is a well-known phenomenon to the old-time PPC shooters and gunbuilders...it occurs because when you pull the trigger RIGHT-handed, you are pulling the trigger--and therefore the HAND--TOWARDS the ratchets on the extractor/cylinder ass'y, and when you are pulling the trigger LEFT-handed, you are pulling the trigger--and therefore the hand--AWAY from the ratchets...gotta' have SOME "Tolerance" between the hand, trigger, handslot in the frame, etc., or NOTHING would "Move", right???...all this was explained to me by Lou Ciamillo, charter member of the "APG", and a HELL of a PPC gun builder...FWIW....mikey357

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...