1911 trigger job

[ghost21]

Need some advice on doing a trigger job on a Rock Island 1911 in 38 super,(soon to be 9mm),

Using the trigger ,sear,disconnect combo from brownells.

Has anyone hear used this set-up to do a trigger job, or knows somebody that has, and how did it work out?

Thanks

Jeff

PS meant to mention that this combo is a matched set!

Edited December 30, 2007 by ghost21

[ghost21]

I originally posted this under a different heading.So hear goes!

Need some advice on doing a trigger job on a Rock Island 1911 in 38 super,(soon to be 9mm),

Using the trigger ,sear,disconnect combo from brownells.

Has anyone hear used this set-up to do a trigger job, or knows somebody that has, and how did it work out?

Thanks

Jeff

PS meant to mention that this combo is a matched set!

[Run n Gun]

Brownells sells several different sets but the one I've always had good luck with is the EGW "1911 Auto Ignition Parts Kit". Also at Brownells is this article that gives an overview of the process. With the EGW kit, an Ed Brown sear gauge, a trigger pull gauge and a 17# main spring I've done several 2-3 pound, very crisp 1911 triggers.

Ed

edited for stoopid spelling

Edited December 30, 2007 by Run n Gun

[HSMITH]

If the pin holes in the frame are on location and parallel the drop in matched kits will do fine, stay around 3 pounds, get below that and things need to be dead perfect for it to last. If the pin holes aren't on location and/or aren't parallel you will need the help of a good 1911 smith to get it worked out. If you are determined to do it yourself a couple hundred bucks in tools and a couple hundred bucks in parts to ruin while you learn will get you going. A GOOD trigger man has paid his dues in time and money to get there.

The "kit" I like is the C&S ultra light kit, also sold as the Extreme Engineering Ultimate kit. I buy my parts from Chuck at Shooters Connection, unless you have an FFL discount at Brownells Chuck is going to be cheaper.

[Seth]

Is there a cheap and dirty way to find out if a drop in will work? I don't have any problem spending $$$$ for top quality work, but am not at all afraid to get my hands dirty either. Can the C&S kit be dropped in and dychem or sharpied to determine if its got proper engagement?

Seth (thinkng a of a trigger job for my SA TRP)

[HSMITH]

BLUE sharpie marker, install dry and dryfire a dozen times or so, if the blue isn't worn off evenly you need help. If the blue is worn off evenly you will probably be able to get away with it.

[ghost21]

Thanks for the imput guys,Still have some thinking to do ,about the rout im going . but if I can i would like to do the work on the pistol myself. But always like to get all the advice I can .

Thanks

Jeff

[bountyhunter]

If the pin holes in the frame are on location and parallel the drop in matched kits will do fine, stay around 3 pounds, get below that and things need to be dead perfect for it to last.

I think Brownell's tech article section has an article on a "2.5 Pound" trigger (was it Weigand's?).

Anyway, it explains how to balance the sear spring forces evenly between the sear and the trigger return.

I also would not go below about 3# total pull with unfitted components.

[TBF]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...p;t=1&i=349

I cheaped out and got the Ed Brown jig , and some of the ceramic 90 degree stones from Brownells .

Several months and many sears later I finally got things figured out .

Save your components that work now in a safe place , modify new parts .

If you never plan on doing another trigger , have a real gunsmith do it and save time , money and cuss less .

Travis F.

[want2race]

I opted for the Marvel single roller jig. Love it. I've used another sear/hammer jig without rollers and the anno wears off after a few dozen jobs.