Mark K Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 I just bought an STI Recoil Master (Light/Bushing version) from Brownells. This was going in my Para 18.9 LTD LDA. Installation went according to instructions, until I tried to rack the slide. As soon as the barrel comes out of battery, it is evident that the back of the Recoil Master is binding between the frame and the barrel. Is this because the Recoil Master does not have the U-shaped cutout that a conventional guide rod has? Advice? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I just bought an STI Recoil Master (Light/Bushing version) from Brownells. This was going in my Para 18.9 LTD LDA. Installation went according to instructions, until I tried to rack the slide. As soon as the barrel comes out of battery, it is evident that the back of the Recoil Master is binding between the frame and the barrel. Is this because the Recoil Master does not have the U-shaped cutout that a conventional guide rod has? Advice?Mark You are probaly right. My question is why you would want a recoilmaster in a 9mm para? Put the guide rod back in the pistol and play with spring wieght if you want to tune some. ---------------Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark K Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 I just bought an STI Recoil Master (Light/Bushing version) from Brownells. This was going in my Para 18.9 LTD LDA. Installation went according to instructions, until I tried to rack the slide. As soon as the barrel comes out of battery, it is evident that the back of the Recoil Master is binding between the frame and the barrel. Is this because the Recoil Master does not have the U-shaped cutout that a conventional guide rod has? Advice?Mark You are probaly right. My question is why you would want a recoilmaster in a 9mm para? Put the guide rod back in the pistol and play with spring wieght if you want to tune some. ---------------Larry Larry, Thanks. That's what I did for the time being. Why did I buy it? Why do any of us buy the aftermarket stuff? We are trying to improve performance, I guess. And sometime just because we can. Since you suggested it, I have 15# recoil spring now, what do you suggest? Higher, lower, progressive? I am new to the pistol game, not to shooting. Softening recoil sounded like a good thing. TIA Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 LTD 18.9 LDA is a 9mm right? Pick up an assortment from 12 and lower to see which one you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I run a 12 with my Para .40, so I agree with trying 12 lb and below springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I would almost bet you wind up at about 10#--------------Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Hello: I have a 9lb ISMI recoil spring in my STI 2011 9mm I built. I have tried and liked a 15lb spring in my Kimber 9mm. I would try a heavy spring then try a light spring to see which one you shoot better. I would use a clock and see your scores to see which is best for you. That is what I have been told anyways ;-). Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark K Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Thanks. OK, Gang. Educate me. Why lighter? When is it too light? When if fails to chamber a round? (BTW: I already use shock buffers (1)) I am trying to learn then ins and outs of the 1911/2011. Other than the slightly lighter Recoil spring I am now using, the only tuning I have tried is first a 17# and then a 15# mainspring to lighten the trigger. TIA Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 from my experience, going lighter helps tame the gun a bit (using the same loads). though taming a production 9mm shouldn't be too hard . going too light can cause frame battering and if your mag springs aren't up to par, you'll have some feed issues. shock buffs with a light recoil spring help to decrease frame battering but if not inspected frequently, you'll have some issues (shock buff starts flaring out and starts rubbing the insides of the frame). as for a 15# mainspring, it may cause light primer strikes especially if you have a standard weight hammer. a lighter hammer will help ignitine most rounds but its not 100%. i'm not too familiar with the LDA system so the mainspring tip might be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark K Posted November 13, 2007 Author Share Posted November 13, 2007 Update: Response from STI support suggested that I take off a little of the diameter of the recoil master. I did that, and it fits. I am going to give it a try, but I also ordered a few lighter conventional springs this afternoon, and will give them a try when they come in. Thanks all, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Good suggest from STI support Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark K Posted November 14, 2007 Author Share Posted November 14, 2007 Intital tests with the RM were pretty good. I think the time back on target was faster, but for a few rounds the chambering seemed to hang slightly. The gun needs cleaning, so I will try again later, when I compare with the conventional guide rod and lighter springs. Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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