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Which gun for Single Stack?


Rather-B-Huntin

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I would take a close look HERE, but ya better be fast

Thanks Z. I didn't want to look like I was pushing this on someone so I held off. Now that I've decided to keep it I'll say this.

I love the Trojan (I've said it before I know)

I don't have experience with the Spartan but I have to believe it is a decent "budget" gun too.

If you are set on the .40 I won't try to talk you out of it but --- IMO SS=.45

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1911's are individuals, not like Glocks so there is always a chance that the gun you end up with isn't what you expected. My vote would be for a used example from the BE classifieds, STI Spartan, or older used Kimber (internal extractor).

My data set for the STI Spartan is only N=1 but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. 600 USD, replace the front site with a narrower one from Dawson Precision and have your smith work on the trigger, mine was just over 4 lbs out of the box. I'd rather buy bullets than guns, of course that is with 6 1911's in the safe. :) Buy two Spartan's and have a backup.

If you're looking for a .40, STI Trojan all the way or a Kimber if you run across one.

Edited by chrisjohn
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  • 2 months later...

there was a review in Front Sight over the Spartan a while back. it seemed like it worked really well. i have one now, and i really like it. i would have to say that it is imo the best way to get into single stack, especially if you are on a budget. you can install a wilson combat mag well for $20 and you can lighten the trigger if you know how. the fo front sight and nice bomar style sights give it a good feel, and best of all they are uber tight. just my two cents. GTG

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I would say get the sights you want,some trigger work some quality magazines and forget the match barrel and all that. How necessary is a match grade barrel in the first place when we arnt exactly shooting a bullseye match and how many are shooting that well,(fast enough to be competitive as well) that a match grade barrel is really going to help them. Maby the GMs and a few TOP Masters? As long as you have decent accuracy and the gun hits where you want it to you should be good to go. Trigger wise you sould be able to get in the upper 2pound-low 3 pound range for pretty cheap using mostly the stock parts with a little work. On a budget there is no need to drop a couple hundred on custom trigger parts and work and end up out 250-300 bucks to get a sub 2 pound trigger pull.

You can always add more later if you want to but if your on a budget start with the basics and then go from there.

A used Pre series 2 Kimber would be a good place to start as the quality of the earlier ones blows the new ones away.

Accuracy matters and not just to GM's.

Consider this.

A typical metal plate measures 8" in diameter.

Let's think about taking a long shot at a plate with a gun & load capable of 4" accuracy at that distance.

The net effect is that your aim is resticted to the interior 50% of the target.

If your sights stray outside that sweet spot, the gun may do the rest and throw the bullet completely off the steel.

For all intents and purposes you are now shooting at a 4" target instead of an 8" target.

Think of it this way. The difference between a handgun that groups 1" and a gun that groups 4" is the difference between shooting at a 4" plate or a 7" plate.

That's going to translate into mikes or make up shots.

I want the bullets to land where the gun is aimed when I break the trigger.

I need to know that if I missed, it was because I missed.

Is a tack driving gun an absolute must?

Of course not, but it will make a difference.

Only the guy behind the trigger can decide how much importance to attach to it.

Tls

That has always been my thoughts for pistol, or rifle. If they are more accurate, I don't HAVE to be! :cheers:

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