10mmdave Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) Here's a manual off the web site, exploded view looks like the cyl is like a S&W. A call/email to the company sounds like a good idea. Edited November 19, 2012 by 10mmdave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) Here's a manual off the web site, exploded view looks like the cyl is like a S&W. A call/email to the company sounds like a good idea. 827 (*) PDF0494 Taurus 44, 45, 607, 608, 657, 658, 827, 837 Schematic W/ Parts List 2 581070 Cylinder Retaining Bushing A local gunsmith say to me " Taurus cylinder full disassembly it's a HOT job " Advice to me, put the full assembly in fuel for 24 hours and after dry with air and lubricate He said: is bettere dont' try to open it, reassembly it's very difficult Patrick, It looks like part #2 (cylinder retaining bushing) is the issue. Maybe wise to follow the gunsmiths advice. Edited November 19, 2012 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Thanks This Taurus is the model 627 and I see this model has a lot of piece than this one in the pics exploited The completed full assembly cylinder and yoke is 16 pieces With the new forum style I can't find the way to attach pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) Thanks This Taurus is the model 627 and I see this model has a lot of piece than this one in the pics exploited The completed full assembly cylinder and yoke is 16 pieces With the new forum style I can't find the way to attach pics Patrick, looks like schematic is page #20 compact frame (10mmdave's post) get out the magnifying glass. Numrich does not show a larger schematic for that model (627). If you were able to carefully remove the cylinder and record the orientation of the parts reassembly is probably easy. But gently tapping off the cylinder because of the cylinder retaining bushing could prove to be a problem depending on how much force is required. A good clear schematic would help. Part #'s 2,3,6 and 69 could present a headache. Unless I had to I would make life easier and just flush, dry and oil. This is something that if I screwed it up I could take to Toolguy. He would look at it for a few minutes, fix it and make me look stupid. It would only take him a few seconds to figure out the problem but he would ponder for a few minutes to make me feel better. Edited November 19, 2012 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Just finish to polish and reassembly the Taurus 627. Another question about it.. Even when we went to pick her up I realized that the timing was at the limit and I'm reminded of Carmoney's words "they did develop a reputation for going out of time very quickly" Well.. I did some work before this summer on the yoke with the laser welder and has held up very well, it could be good to add a lightweight material on hand and then take it with a file to correct height, to making like a oversize hand ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) Just finish to polish and reassembly the Taurus 627. Another question about it.. Even when we went to pick her up I realized that the timing was at the limit and I'm reminded of Carmoney's words "they did develop a reputation for going out of time very quickly" Well.. I did some work before this summer on the yoke with the laser welder and has held up very well, it could be good to add a lightweight material on hand and then take it with a file to correct height, to making like a oversize hand ? I heard Warren talk about Ron Power bending the tips of Smith and Wesson hands by heating them up and hitting them with a hammer in some sort of jig with a step in it. The hand is hard steel and holds an edge like a knife. Welding the hand, if not re-hardened correctly, may make the hand soft and not want to stay in time. Warren (Toolguy) is a machinist and metal expert, he would know, you could PM him here at his vendor site (Protocol Design). Usually you can just slightly bend the hand pin so the tip of the hand is twisted inward slightly. Using needle nose pliers grasp the hand and apply pressure with the hand still attached to the trigger. Warren refers to this as adjusting the unadjustable, he can give you a better explanation than I can. Edited November 23, 2012 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Patrick, I just pulled one of my 608's out and refreshed my memory on disassembly. Pull the cylinder/crane assembly out, unscrew the center pin (remember it's left hand threaded) with some empty cases in place to prevent damage to the guide pins, and then pull the ejector/star out of the cylinder. Hold the crane and the cylinder should come off with a tap of a soft mallet. There's a collar in the cylinder that locks into a groove on the crane...as long as the star is in the cylinder, the collar can't flex enough to allow the crane to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Thank you all guys, really good tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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