Trigger Job on a Stock II

[slavex]

so been playing with my new SII and have done some polishing to various parts, plunger, hammer, sear, etc. just wondering what others have done? I've found that the plunger made the most difference to the feel of the trigger pull, it was very rough, machine marks visible on it rough, and polishing it to a mirror finish made a huge difference. For a nicer reset I polished the bottom edge of the sear that the trigger bar rides on, and then connects to. huge difference to reset. I suppose for USPSA you guys could try changing angles in that area (trigger bar/sear) but for IPSC we can't obviously.

any one have any other hints for the SII that are different from the SA guns?

I am now sitting at 1454 round through this gun in the last 1.5 weeks. I'll be putting another 4-500 hundred through it this week, at least, if not more.

Edited September 5, 2007 by slavex

[Josh Biondi]

so been playing with my new SII and have done some polishing to various parts, plunger, hammer, sear, etc. just wondering what others have done? I've found that the plunger made the most difference to the feel of the trigger pull, it was very rough, machine marks visible on it rough, and polishing it to a mirror finish made a huge difference. For a nicer reset I polished the bottom edge of the sear that the trigger bar rides on, and then connects to. huge difference to reset. I suppose for USPSA you guys could try changing angles in that area (trigger bar/sear) but for IPSC we can't obviously.

any one have any other hints for the SII that are different from the SA guns?

I am now sitting at 1454 round through this gun in the last 1.5 weeks. I'll be putting another 4-500 hundred through it this week, at least, if not more.

Firing pin, firing pin safety, trigger bow, polish it to a mirrow finish, it will help.

[slavex]

did the trigger bow already, although I didn't do the sides that can contact with the frame (you around the parts that go around the mag well) as there is no contact there, I just lube that area. What I basically did was look for areas that showed wear from the first few hundred rounds I put through it, and then polished them. I'll definitely look at the firing pin safety though, but not sure why the firing pin itself? just where the safety engages on it maybe?

[sinnsyk]

- Check the inside of the trigger bow as well, make sure no parts of it is contacting the magazine.

- Do you have to leave the FP safety in the gun to be production legal? Though a safety feature and do at your own risk, so I can't recommend you do it, but I take it out on my guns. Lightens the trigger.

- Polish trigger plunger

- Try lightening the trigger spring, but leave enough to get a solid reset

- Lighten the sear spring (bend it to relieve it)

- Probably polish contact points between trigger bar and interruptor

Anyone else?

[slavex]

FP safety has to be left in, but I can clean up any rough areas on it too, I have enough trouble getting the sear spring back in, not sure I'd want to mess with it, and besides that, those nasty PD rules jump in again, same with lightening the trigger spring. I hope Tanfoglio really is working on getting some new parts out to us. I'd like a bigger set of safeties for my fat thumbs to sit on, preferably ones that didn't work as safeties........ hmm would that make the gun PD legal still????????? the interupter hasn't shown any signs of contact with anything, any hints on where it should be cleaned up?

Edited September 5, 2007 by slavex

[Mo Hepworth]

hammer spring inside and out, hammer strut, and the cavity it rides in.....

sear on side it rubs against inside of sear housing. The sear spring pushes it against the wall of the housing.

Edited September 6, 2007 by Mo Hepworth

[Mo Hepworth]

I have a NIB CZ Shadow. If I am correct, the Sear pressure is less on the CZ than on the tan. Do you think this is due to the different Sear springs? Hammer angle looks slightly different.

I am going to take the CZ apart and compare the sear springs.

Edited October 28, 2007 by Mo Hepworth

[Mo Hepworth]

I wondered why in the previous post by Josh Biondi, he mentions polishing the FPB, and firing pin. I think I know why now. I have been using the same ammunition for the last 2 years, and it is really great. I used it in my HK, my CZ, and this gun. I also sold some to guys who have shot it out of an XD, Glock 17, and Sig. NO one reported any problems. USing the stock hammer spring, (16lbs), and with all the OEM put in it by Tanfoglio, I will get some Jesus weird primer strikes. I would say once in a 100 I will get a light primer strike. All other primer strikes are hard,.....hard enough to make a pencil with eraser fly out the end and stick into a cardboard box.....but the strange thing is, I can't figure out what is causing this,....did I ride the slide to the point it just barely closes,,....is residue causing problems? or is it the FPB, which looks very rough. Maybe it is getting caught up on the firing pin, or riding against the firing pin and causing it to slow down, or some type of problem.....

ALso, the firing pin looks rounded, not at all like the CZ I have, which is sharper at the point. I am going to polish the FPB, and FP, and see what happens after 500rds. Maybe dirt getting in the firing pin channel is too blame.....?

Edited October 29, 2007 by Mo Hepworth

[Gary1911A1]

Please keep us posted. I'm interested in this too as I have it in my mind to shoot production this winter with either a Witness Stock or a CZ SP-01.

[Mo Hepworth]

I like this gun so much, that I am thinking of trading or selling my HC Edge.40, with stainless magwell and FOsight in order to get the LC2.

Very comfortable to shoot.

[Mo Hepworth]

my Custom safety was rubbing against the trigger bar as it moved under it in DA. it gave it a gritty pull,...little bit of smoothing and it has cleaned up a bit. ALso, I think it was very close to rubbing under the sear housing....little polishing there just in case it rubs.

Edited February 20, 2008 by Mo Hepworth

[R.Elliott]

Polish the mainspring channel and hammer strut and then dump in some nice gooey grease. Polish not only the trigger plunger but the race it rides in using a craytex disk. Polish the contact points on the disconnector and the corresponding slots on the slide (they are usually rough with tool marks).

Use graphite grease (trigger slick) on the trigger plunger and on the sear cage ramps and the contact surface on the interruptor. Keep your springs well lubed as well with grease of a nice thick oil. This includes the plunger spring. These guns run best a smoothest when kept nice and juicy.