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EGW HAMMER & SEAR AVAILABLE !


sinnsyk

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This is turning out to be a great weekend. I just received a big shipment of the new EGW hammer, sears and slide stops. All back ordered slide stop pins will be shipping out on Tuesday after Labor Day.

I did the first trigger job with the new EGW hammer and sear today. They are both of very high quality and the trigger came out just as expected - great. I have written up an article about it with some pictures so that it's easier to get a feel for them. You definitely have to have a gunsmith do it for you unless you are adept at doing trigger jobs yourself. The sear does require some fitting, mainly to make it fit with the thumb safety and to allow it to reset with the trigger bar. Once you've got that figured out you're onto the actual trigger job of stoning the sear to the correct angle. With a well executed trigger job you'll have a sweet crisp trigger with a short reset.

Check out the article:

EGW Hammer & Sear Trigger Kit Article

Parts available in shop:

Ultimate Trigger Kit in Shop

Edited by sinnsyk
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This is turning out to be a great weekend. I just received a big shipment of the new EGW hammer, sears and slide stops. All back ordered slide stop pins will be shipping out on Tuesday after Labor Day.

I did the first trigger job with the new EGW hammer and sear today. They are both of very high quality and the trigger came out just as expected - great. I have written up an article about it with some pictures so that it's easier to get a feel for them. You definitely have to have a gunsmith do it for you unless you are adept at doing trigger jobs yourself. The sear does require some fitting, mainly to make it fit with the thumb safety and to allow it to reset with the trigger bar. Once you've got that figured out you're onto the actual trigger job of stoning the sear to the correct angle. With a well executed trigger job you'll have a sweet crisp trigger with a short reset.

Check out the article:

EGW Hammer & Sear Trigger Kit Article

Parts available in shop:

Ultimate Trigger Kit in Shop

Awesome. Will Rich at Canyon Creek have these? I'm the guy in Texas that has been asking you a million questions about a Limited build. I just want to be sure and get the gun built with all your newest parts. I emailed Rich and have not heard back for a couple of days.
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I doubt anyone else has these parts, I bought the entire stock from EGW except for 5-6 kits pre-ordered by other people from EGW. If you want, get the parts from me, I'll send it to you and you send the gun to Rich or to me, doesn't matter. They're high quality parts and it'll be a nice trigger for sure. Make sure to get the Wolff spring and the X-Long Firing Pin at the same time for the ultimate trigger job. And add the EGW slide pin on top of it !

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I doubt anyone else has these parts, I bought the entire stock from EGW except for 5-6 kits pre-ordered by other people from EGW. If you want, get the parts from me, I'll send it to you and you send the gun to Rich or to me, doesn't matter. They're high quality parts and it'll be a nice trigger for sure. Make sure to get the Wolff spring and the X-Long Firing Pin at the same time for the ultimate trigger job. And add the EGW slide pin on top of it !
Can I order an Elite Witness Limited directly from you?
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The Hammer could be made to work for DA. It doesn't have the hole drilled for the interruptor, but that wouldn't be too hard for a gunsmith to do. If you're going to use it for Production you wouldn't be allowed to switch to an after market hammer, would you?

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  • 1 year later...

I think I will be getting these too! I ruined one match when the hammer wouldn't stay back, it was like shooting a single action revolver for the rest of the match, and I don't want to experience that again. :D Have you done something to these parts or are they straight from EGW?

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After I get them from EGW they are modified further by a secondary machine shop. EGW makes a great hammer, but they don't cut the hooks to the spec's where you can make a good trigger job very easily. When you get the parts from me they are functional as drop-in. If you want to make the trigger even better you can by continue to work on the sear. I can tell you the details of how to work on them to get a sub 2lb crisp trigger.

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  • 7 months later...
After I get them from EGW they are modified further by a secondary machine shop. EGW makes a great hammer, but they don't cut the hooks to the spec's where you can make a good trigger job very easily. When you get the parts from me they are functional as drop-in. If you want to make the trigger even better you can by continue to work on the sear. I can tell you the details of how to work on them to get a sub 2lb crisp trigger.

Henning, I tried to modify the hammer of my Stock 2 and cut the hammer hook to .012 I did not touch the sear. I'm not happy with the result, the creep was reduced however. What should i do with the sear, should I reduce the angle of the sear? Please help.

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dan 259> Can you expand upon what you don't like on the current trigger job you did? Its hard to give a recommendation of what you should change to fix it when the problem description is "I am not happy with the result".

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dan 259> Can you expand upon what you don't like on the current trigger job you did? Its hard to give a recommendation of what you should change to fix it when the problem description is "I am not happy with the result".

I'm not happy because I know I can improve it more to sub 2 lbs. The trigger pull is 2.7 lbs at present I'm using 14 lbs hammer spring and extended firing pin. I'm wondering what should be done with the sear to improve it. It is the only part I have not yet touched.

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dan 259> Switch to a 13lb hammer spring. Then polish the sear ledge that engages the hammer hooks with an appropriate polishing stone. That will lighten it up a little more. At that point you can polish other parts to help them slip across one another better but that usually just changes the smoothness of the trigger pull and not so much the trigger pull weight. The main things that affect the trigger pull weight after doing all the above is the Sear Spring and the Trigger Spring. You can tweak the springs to reduce their leverage on the parts they are retaining, but you need to sneak up on the adjustments because its easy to go too far and then you will not have reliable functionality. On most of the trigger jobs I have done I usually only have to tweak the sear spring a little bit to get the trigger pull down to 2lbs, but these are all single action only guns. The trigger spring on a DA/SA gun may be a lot stiffer than a SA trigger so you may have to tweak the trigger spring.

I suggest getting a replacement Trigger and Sear springs so you can use those for fiddling with and keep the stock ones as backup in case you totally screw up one of the springs by tweaking it. You should also keep in mind that both the Trigger and Sear spring do break in over time so if you have new springs and tweak them to make a perfect 2lb trigger over time they will loose some of their tension and the trigger will lighten up. When I work with a new gun with new springs I will setup the trigger to 2lbs 4oz because I know that after a little bit of use it will lighten up to about 2lbs even.

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I also want to add that the stock trigger parts are not very solid. Once you start grinding on them and take off the outer hardening coating they are pretty soft and whatever effort you put into modifying them will quickly be ruined by the metal deforming as you use it. If you want a truly adjustable trigger that will hold its settings you need to use both the EGW Hammer and Sear.

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dan 259> Switch to a 13lb hammer spring. Then polish the sear ledge that engages the hammer hooks with an appropriate polishing stone. That will lighten it up a little more. At that point you can polish other parts to help them slip across one another better but that usually just changes the smoothness of the trigger pull and not so much the trigger pull weight. The main things that affect the trigger pull weight after doing all the above is the Sear Spring and the Trigger Spring. You can tweak the springs to reduce their leverage on the parts they are retaining, but you need to sneak up on the adjustments because its easy to go too far and then you will not have reliable functionality. On most of the trigger jobs I have done I usually only have to tweak the sear spring a little bit to get the trigger pull down to 2lbs, but these are all single action only guns. The trigger spring on a DA/SA gun may be a lot stiffer than a SA trigger so you may have to tweak the trigger spring.

I suggest getting a replacement Trigger and Sear springs so you can use those for fiddling with and keep the stock ones as backup in case you totally screw up one of the springs by tweaking it. You should also keep in mind that both the Trigger and Sear spring do break in over time so if you have new springs and tweak them to make a perfect 2lb trigger over time they will loose some of their tension and the trigger will lighten up. When I work with a new gun with new springs I will setup the trigger to 2lbs 4oz because I know that after a little bit of use it will lighten up to about 2lbs even.

I also install them but the hammer bonus back half cock once a while. Is that normal ????

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Limited Custom> The hammer bounces back to half cock when you are firing the weapon? Or when you manually cock the hammer and pull the trigger?

CHA-LEE It. bounce back when you firing or doing dry fire.....but it's not every time.

The hammer is contacting the trigger stirrup and basically recoiling back off of it. If you clearance the bottom of the hammer the problem will go away. Take the sear cage out and look at where the hammer is contacting the stirrup. That's the area you have to dress.

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Limited Custom> The hammer bounces back to half cock when you are firing the weapon? Or when you manually cock the hammer and pull the trigger?

CHA-LEE It. bounce back when you firing or doing dry fire.....but it's not every time.

The hammer is contacting the trigger stirrup and basically recoiling back off of it. If you clearance the bottom of the hammer the problem will go away. Take the sear cage out and look at where the hammer is contacting the stirrup. That's the area you have to dress.

Will that be a problem if I leave it like that? My gun smith said that's normal. Should I get another guy to look at that?

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Limited Custom> The hammer bounces back to half cock when you are firing the weapon? Or when you manually cock the hammer and pull the trigger?

CHA-LEE It. bounce back when you firing or doing dry fire.....but it's not every time.

The hammer is contacting the trigger stirrup and basically recoiling back off of it. If you clearance the bottom of the hammer the problem will go away. Take the sear cage out and look at where the hammer is contacting the stirrup. That's the area you have to dress.

Will that be a problem if I leave it like that? My gun smith said that's normal. Should I get another guy to look at that?

The gun will work, but it's a little annoying when dry-firing.

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If the hammer is dropping to half cock when you fire the gun that isn't good. If you drop the hammer on an empty chamber and it bounces back to the half cock then work on the area that R. Elliot is talking about.

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dan 259> Switch to a 13lb hammer spring. Then polish the sear ledge that engages the hammer hooks with an appropriate polishing stone. That will lighten it up a little more. At that point you can polish other parts to help them slip across one another better but that usually just changes the smoothness of the trigger pull and not so much the trigger pull weight. The main things that affect the trigger pull weight after doing all the above is the Sear Spring and the Trigger Spring. You can tweak the springs to reduce their leverage on the parts they are retaining, but you need to sneak up on the adjustments because its easy to go too far and then you will not have reliable functionality. On most of the trigger jobs I have done I usually only have to tweak the sear spring a little bit to get the trigger pull down to 2lbs, but these are all single action only guns. The trigger spring on a DA/SA gun may be a lot stiffer than a SA trigger so you may have to tweak the trigger spring.

I suggest getting a replacement Trigger and Sear springs so you can use those for fiddling with and keep the stock ones as backup in case you totally screw up one of the springs by tweaking it. You should also keep in mind that both the Trigger and Sear spring do break in over time so if you have new springs and tweak them to make a perfect 2lb trigger over time they will loose some of their tension and the trigger will lighten up. When I work with a new gun with new springs I will setup the trigger to 2lbs 4oz because I know that after a little bit of use it will lighten up to about 2lbs even.

Cha-Lee> thank you for your suggestions. Actually I did all of the above but when I lightened the sear spring with corresponding adjustment with trigger spring, the hammer follows. Maybe I have cut the hammer hook too far (0.012) I cannot use EGW much that I wanted too because it is not legal for Production category IPSC. I noticed too that the sear is soft once it was polished.

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