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Sako extractor for R700


bigbrowndog

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At the CMG match held this past weekend, I lost a fair amount of time trying to put 2 rounds into the chamber at the same time. The fired round would stay in and not eject/extract. I could reseat extractor/bolt and the case would easily come out, the loads were not HOT.

It appears that the extractor needs replacing, the question is should I stick with the original or convert to a Sako type extractor. It seems to be a common conversion, however I also seem to recall people voicing opposition to the conversion.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.

Trapr

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Trapr,

Is is an older action, with a rivited extractor? Has the extractor been removed and any brass shavings that might have been deposited there cleaned out? The stock extractor can be easily replaced if it's the new style. I had do to that once on one of my XP100's. Tubb has an extractor conversion kit with all the pieces needed. I have a project rifle that is going to get one.

I've seen pros and cons to the conversion. All of it seems to be opinion, not hard facts. Take a look at www.6mmbr.com.

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My unscientific bias is against Sako extractors. A guy in our town had the extractor blown into his eye when an overpressure fireforming load KBed his 700. Maybe he'd be just as blind in that eye, Sako or not, but I'm sticking with the factory style.

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John,

Can't argue with your logic. I've seen a similar reference to the extractors being blown out. I wonder if it has to do with the location of the extractor. I've loaded some very hot rounds in a Sako action, with no problems. I used a powder that was a bit too fast. The rest of the rounds were taken down, not fired.

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Trapr, I have four custom rifles from GA Precision and none of them have the sako conversion. They all still have the REM extractor that came from the factory. I would not get it unless it just something you want to have done. B)

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Trapr,

Give Shawn Carlock a buzz (www.defensiveedge.net). He has done the Sako conversion and (IIRC) has done a conversion using an AR extractor. I think Shawn usually sticks with the factory extractor for the above reasons. Unless you needed to be absolutely self sufficient in BFE, it's hard to justify.

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Thanks guys, those are the same rumors i'd heard. I looked carefully at my extractor and it seems to not make enough contact with the case rim. Thus leading to failure to extract, what i'm having a hard time figuring out is if its riveted or unriveted, there does seem to be a "pin" holding it in place next to the ejector, is this easily removed and replaced or does it need a gunsmith.

Trapr

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  • 1 month later...
OK, easily removed HOW?

Trapr

It just pops out like an internal snap ring, run a small screwdriver under it to start it. Unless you have a riveted one, which was used on the older 700 series (and a bunch of other series numbers). If yours is riveted, you can see the rivet from what I remember. It goes right through edge of the bolt. It is also a good idea to place a small drop of oil behind the extractor so it doesn't bind on the bolt body.

The extractor can crack, chip, and build up brass under it causing it to fail to extract. As long as you clean and maintain it, it should be fine.

Regarding the Sako concept, remember the marines beat the tar out of the 700 308 and they didn't request a change to a Sako extractor.

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I've pretty much decided to just replace the factory extractor with another. As to the Marines not breaking their extractors, that may be true, but did they hand off any of their rifles to Fireman after they were done with them. :rolleyes:

thanks guys i'll try getting the old one out tonight.

Trapr

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It is the extractor with the rivet, it came out with some help from a BFH. Now to order the replacement, BTW, what do you do to the rivet when you are replacing it?

Trapr

Trapr,

I do believe that Brownells also carries the riveting tool, or at least what would be used for the anvil.

By the way, you drill out the rivet, not beat it out!!!!

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