Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

New Open Gun - Need Reloading Stuff


redwoods

Recommended Posts

I am getting a new open gun. I shoot and reload for 9mm, 45, and 40. Reloading for open from what I read is different. What should I get?

This is what I am thinking about getting

-Remington +p brass (38 super)

-Small rifle primers (win or Fed)

-JHP bullets in 125 grain (better than fmj?)

-I am getting load data from the previous owner for powder and 124 gr bullets

Here is the big question

Dies

-EGW U die

-Lee FCD

-What about the bullet seater? I don't want to spend a bunch on the Redding fancy dancy seater die if I don't have to.

How would I buy the dies? separately? I guess I would have to.

I have a 550b reloader.

Thanks for the info,

Redwoods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WITH A 550, I THINK YOU NEED A MINIMUM OF:

EGW "U" DIE

LEE FCD

REDDING MICRO SEATER

THE OPEN GUNS REALLY BENEFIT FROM A ROLL SIZER, BUT YOU CAN GET

BY WITH THE ABOVE COMBINATION.

THE OPEN GUNS ARE LIKE AN INDY RACECAR. THEY REQUIRE SPECIAL TOOLS

TO KEEP RUNNING. DON'T EXPECT TO WIN INDY WITH A CHEVY VEGA AND

A VICEGRIP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that you'll need only the EGW or LEE undersize die. The 38 brass is cylindrical not conic like 9 mm so the brass needs a more accuracy in reload. Plus if you use new brass in the match the gun will work really fine. The other dies maybe or dillon or lee both works fine in the reload but lee are less expensive. At last if you wanna to be more secure you can use on a single station press the lee factory crimp die to get ammo like news.

Nice shoot!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never had an issue using the stock Dillon die set for .38 Super. The Redding die makes adjusting seating easier - but if you're not switching things around a bunch, it only helps in that regard once. Theoretically, it also helps seat the bullet a bit straighter, as well. As you're starting out, its a luxury item that isn't required, right now.

+1 on Singlestack's comments re: JHPs...

Be aware that 125gr bullets are many times .356 diameter, and 124gr bullets are .355 diameter. You can run either, usually (some guns like one better than the other), but you may need to back off the previous owner's loading data a couple of tenths when going to a larger diameter bullet... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the good info. I do have a chamber guage. What about the .355 and .356 diameter bullet size? Will one wear out your barrel faster than the other? If I went with .356, I could use less powder, right?

Also, I have posted a thread in the reloading forum about seating my 38super bullet with a 9mm seater die. I have an extra set of 9mm dies. I am going to get an EGW U Die and a Lee Factory Crimp Die. Can I just use my 9mm bullet seater with it? I would get a redding micro competition, but once it is adjusted, it is set, unless you want to play with OAL.

Redwoods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everybody has different successes with and opinions about what to use. Maybe the brand of brass and the other stuff is important, maybe not. Some guns run most anything, Some guns are very picky about what they like. Everything "can" affect the round, but you have to check it on your gun to see if it makes a difference, some things will make a difference and some won't.

I am a C class shooter and shot Open for about 2 years. My gun, bought used, was extremely reliable, except once when the ejector broke and once when the extractor worn out.

Loaded 38 Super on a 550 (not 550B). I used 121, 124, 125 JHP with Winchester SRP. I started with Dillon dies and had no problems for a good while. Then started having more rounds not pass the check gauge. Bought the EGW and FCD, after that only once in a great while would one fail the gauge.

Used all sorts of brass. Winchester, Starline, Remington and any range brass I picked up and never had any trouble with any of them. Did sort brass by brand after tumbling, even had a bin for misc brands, but could not tell any difference in the way they shot, maybe a GM could. My gun seemed to run anything, including regular factory 38 Super. Your gun might be more picky about what it likes. The only brass I had any trouble with was brand new brass, it would want to stick on the powder die.

Your results may vary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for what ipscbob said, I have a 550b also, Starline supercomp brass and Dillon's standard three die set are working for me so farr! I'm still fairly new to loading for open. I've been using the Zero 124's, because a local dealer stocks them, but my comp has been leading up, and I'm about to order some 125 JHP's and give them a try! I've been using 8.7gr True Blue, but have noticed a few flat primers, Once I use up the what True Blue I have left, I'm going to try another powder, was thinking perhapse some Silloette. Suggestions?

Switch to starline supercomp brass and use the standard dillon resizer. Best advice I ever received from someone in the know......
Link to comment
Share on other sites

People have different results based on their gun set up, but I shot 3N37 untill it ran out, then got a good deal on VV340, and it works great in my gun. I used to shoot Win Action Pistol and it worked great in an older Gold Cup SS open gun that I have, but that powder ran out a long time ago...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...