Stock Glock Trigger

[Tattoo]

Hey All,

I have done nothing to my Glock trigger yet and today I shot a gun from a friend

and it was realllly light with no stacking, but the reset was very weak. I felt

like I was waiting for it to reset. My stock gun just snaps back on the reset and

I think I like it better. I may go to the 3.5 connector, but man that reset was weird.

T

[HSMITH]

I run all stock parts with a mild polish job, and my Glocks run a lot better than those of most of my shooting competitors......

I say that if I can't shoot a 5 or a 6 pound trigger I won't be able to shoot a 2 pound trigger either.

[kamann]

My 17 & has stock striker spring, polished RS trigger bar & plunger, (you could polish yours yourself) LWD 3.5 lb connector (stock one polished works well to) and housing w/overtravel stop, and a Glockmeister competition trigger spring. 3.2 lb break with a strong reset, and no light strikes.

If i put in a reduced power striker spring in the above setup, my reset gets sluggish to, unless i put the stock trigger spring back in instead of the Glockmeister one.

Edited April 14, 2007 by kamann

[Duane Thomas]

A great advantage to the lighter trigger is that it allows you to relax your shooting hand for more precise trigger manipulation, versus a heavier trigger pull which requires more hand tension while pulling the trigger. I don't believe the trigger reset on your friend's Glock is, in the overall scheme of things, really too soft. It's that, since you're used to the stock trigger with its more more powerful reset, your hand isn't relaxed enough to let the custom trigger snap forward the way it should - and can.

It all comes down to what you're used to. Trust me, you shoot a 2-pound trigger for awhile, you'll find the 5-pound trigger feels weird, the exact oppositie of your current situation.

[billdncn]

I just purchased a G17 with a 5 lb connector, and the pull is between 7-8 lbs.

My G35 has a home smithed 3.25 lb. pull, using the stock trigger return spring, and a reduced striker spring (like kamann touched on).

Yesterday my splits were a lot faster with the G35. Perhaps it's because I'm not use to the stock trigger of the G17. Like Mr. Thomas said "It all comes down to what you're used to. Trust me, you shoot a 2-pound trigger for awhile, you'll find the 5-pound trigger feels weird, the exact opposite of your current situation."

My trigger should be prepped as the front sight returns to the rear notch no matter what I'm shooting, It's just a matter of getting use to it. I just ordered a bunch of goodies for the G17, and hopefully I can duplicate my 3G5's trigger. I love it

For $10 try the LWD 3.5 connector. You'll probably end up liking it.

Good luck

Edited April 14, 2007 by billdncn

[atmar]

yup +1 on the LWD connector, it cured my reset problems, now i have a 1.5 lb. trigger w/ great reset

[kamann]

My 17 & has stock striker spring, polished RS trigger bar & plunger, (you could polish yours yourself) LWD 3.5 lb connector (stock one polished works well to) and housing w/overtravel stop, and a Glockmeister competition trigger spring. 3.2 lb break with a strong reset, and no light strikes.

If i put in a reduced power striker spring in the above setup, my reset gets sluggish to, unless i put the stock trigger spring back in instead of the Glockmeister one.

I should also mention that with the reduced striker spring setup my trigger pull dropped to about 2 lbs. The reason i went to the stock striker spring setup is because of the occasional light strike w/ Winchester small pistol primers, but mainly because of the proposed 3 lb production rule for 08. For me anyway, there wasn't any difference in my times or scores with the 3 lb trigger over the 2 lb trigger. Even if somehow the 3 lb rule doesn't go through i will probably stick with the 3 lb. I like the fact that i can go down to gun shop and buy any brand 9mm and not worry about it going bang. But with all that being said, experimenting is half the fun so we'll see.

[Tattoo]

Interesting comments by all. I have a 3.5lb connector and I beleive a reduced striker

spring and another spring ( not sure what it is ) that used to be in my G23 that a local

gunsmith put in it for me. I liked the lighter pull and the reset was not a light as my

friends. So what spring change causes the light reset? I reload with WSP primers and

don't want any light strikes or the "too" light reset. So what do I change to get this.

T

P.S. Can I do this on my own or has a GS do it?? Where are the best pics online

to disassemble the frame to get to the connector?

Thanks

Edited April 14, 2007 by Tattoo

[Tattoo]

I just looked in my parts bag and the other spring is about 1/2" long with a loop

on each end. What spring is this? I assume it was a reduced power spring

that went with the connector since they were in the same bag.

T

[open17]

I just looked in my parts bag and the other spring is about 1/2" long with a loop

on each end. What spring is this? I assume it was a reduced power spring

that went with the connector since they were in the same bag.

T

The spring with loops on each end is a trigger spring. A trigger spring for a reduced trigger pull is actually STRONGER than the stock spring.

Striker spring pushes trigger bar forward. Trigger spring pulls trigger bar back.

Striker spring push minus trigger spring pull+friction=trigger pull.

[Tattoo]

I just looked in my parts bag and the other spring is about 1/2" long with a loop

on each end. What spring is this? I assume it was a reduced power spring

that went with the connector since they were in the same bag.

T

The spring with loops on each end is a trigger spring. A trigger spring for a reduced trigger pull is actually STRONGER than the stock spring.

Striker spring pushes trigger bar forward. Trigger spring pulls trigger bar back.

Striker spring push minus trigger spring pull+friction=trigger pull.

Open17,

That is an outstanding expanation. Thanks. I am going to try and replace my connector now and put in the stronger trigger spring, but I think, correct me if I'm wrong, I want to

leave the striker spring alone for now to guarantee good strikes on my WSP primers.

Does that make sense?

T

[open17]

[

Open17,

That is an outstanding expanation. Thanks. I am going to try and replace my connector now and put in the stronger trigger spring, but I think, correct me if I'm wrong, I want to

leave the striker spring alone for now to guarantee good strikes on my WSP primers.

Does that make sense?

T

My current Glock triggers:

Re-drilled trigger bar, rounded safety plunger with lighter spring, LWD 3.5 connector, Glockmeister trigger spring, stock striker spring.

Polish the heck out of everything, run a little slide-glide light on the face of the striker hook and between the trigger bar and connector.

Nice smooth trigger pull, usually right around 3 lbs.

Bill

[Tattoo]

Bill,

Thanks for the help, I am off to take my frame apart for the first time, wish me luck.

I don't have any Slide Glide but I have this moly paste I used on my AR with a Bushmaster

2 stage trigger. Its called Moly Slide and it should work kinda the same way.

Thanks,

T

[Tattoo]

Well Mission Accomplished!!

I had to do my teenage kids taxes first, but it went great. I put in my old 3.5lb

connector and the stronger trigger spring. While it was apart I flitzed the bejesses

out of everything shown in the .25 cent trigger job. And put alittle moly on the sliding

parts. It feels way better than the stock trigger, but not as light as my buddys 17.

I think he sent his to CGR for the trigger job. Plus mine has 500 rounds through

it and his has like 10,000, so hopefully it will get smoother.

Just happy it went back together and thanks for the help. I will try it out tomorrow

at a local match. Thanks again.

T

[kamann]

Thats great. I bet it does feel better. If you ever want it lighter like your freinds, install a Wolff reduced power striker spring, and put your stock trigger spring in, and that will drop it to about 2-2.5 lbs. Light strikes may occur, unless you use Federal 100 primers.

Have fun with it

[Duane Thomas]

I've been running a Wolff reduced power striker spring in my G34 for over 20K and the only misfire I've ever experienced was with one round of the Russian Wolf 9mm which has extremely hard primers. Never had a misfire with Winchester, though the vast majority of Winchester primers I've fired through this thing have been seated in factory ammo. Just remembered, one time I did fire about 50 rounds of a buddy's handloads with Winchester primers and never had a problem. Of course, he's about the most detail-oriented handloader on Earth, so....

[atmar]

for guys w/ misfire problems...try the lightning strike lightened steel striker

[Tattoo]

Well I went out and shot my "new" done by me trigger in a match today and it

ROCKED. Man it was so much lighter than the stock trigger. I really shot well with

it. Now I wonder if I could shoot even better with a reduced striker spring

I will have to give it a try and practice before the next match and get some new sights.

Thanks again,

T

[The Monster]

Re: overtravel stops

A long time ago I made one by putting a set screw in the back of the trigger housing. I didn't like the mushy feel at the rearmost trigger position caused by flexing of the trigger bar. In my opinion, any overtravel stop that attempts to limit travel at the striker end of the trigger bar will have this problem. You could also mess around with putting screws in the trigger pad itself or the frame, but a much better solution is to re-shape the "bird's head" on the trigger bar (the part that touches the connector).

Simply grind off material, shortening the length of the bird's head. Try to match the original shape of the curve, but don't worry if it's not perfect; it isn't critical. Start by taking off about 1/32" or so, then reinstall the trigger and test it. If it still goes back far enough to drop the striker, take it out and grind off some more. Repeat this until the striker won't release. Then lock the slide back, remove the rear cover plate and the striker, then remove the slide and take out the trigger. Now grind a little metal off the tab on the trigger bar that touches the striker (do keep it square to the striker hook) and test fit until the striker just drops. Be sure to re-polish everything once this is done.

Now what you have is a trigger with zero overtravel and zero mush because the trigger movement is being stopped by direct contact between the trigger pad (the plastic part) and the frame with no extra parts. Another benefit is it moves the position at which the trigger hits that "wall" (when trigger bar first hits connector) back closer to your hand, making it easier to manipulate the trigger properly.

[Flexmoney]

That is not all that dis-similar to how the guys are doing it with the M&P. I'm not sure I like the longer travel and longer reset that you get with the trade off.

???

[the duck of death]

I have 5 Glocks w/o overtravel stops and 1 with. Can't tell any difference, I think over travel is a problem, when solved, adds little in the way of accuracy/speed.

Now take up is another matter altogether.

[The Monster]

Flex,

This does increase takeup but decreases reset (I assume you mean the trigger travel to reset--it does not affect reset force). If you want to reduce takeup you can use pins or set screws in the trigger housing to adjust where you want the takeup to start.

Personally, I don't reduce takeup at all because I want to keep all the safeties functional and I wouldn't gain anything from it with the technique I use. I ride the reset so all I care about is the part of the trigger pull that actually interacts with the connector. I think limiting overtravel, and thus reducing reset as well, helps me achieve the splits that I do.

[Flexmoney]

Opps...it looks like I mis-typed in my previous post.

[Lee]

I'm with the Monster on this one. Doesn't matter how much take-up there is, I only use it on the first shot anyway. I do like the short reset from having the overtravel removed.