Getting The 1100cm To Run Light Loads

[bp78]

I recently picked up a Remington 1100 Competition Master. It runs high brass stuff & buckshot without a problem but the cheap game loads and winchester universal stuff at 1oz or 1 1/8 oz @ 1200fps just don't cycle.

I understand some folks enlarge the gas port, is this something you can do without a drill press or is it better left to a smith?

Any other tricks to get the 1100cm to run the cheaper, lighter loads? I understand that the tradeoff is fullhouse rounds will be rougher on the gun, but I plan on sticking to light loads and reduced recoil slugs.

Thanks,

bp

[Jaxshooter]

You do not need a drill press to open up the gas ports. It is better done by hand a little at the time. If you don't know how to do it , have someone who knows how work on it. Better to pay to have it done right than have to buy new barrel and start over.

Edited December 4, 2006 by Jaxshooter

[Carl]

I recently picked up a Remington 1100 Competition Master. It runs high brass stuff & buckshot without a problem but the cheap game loads and winchester universal stuff at 1oz or 1 1/8 oz @ 1200fps just don't cycle.

I understand some folks enlarge the gas port, is this something you can do without a drill press or is it better left to a smith?

Any other tricks to get the 1100cm to run the cheaper, lighter loads? I understand that the tradeoff is fullhouse rounds will be rougher on the gun, but I plan on sticking to light loads and reduced recoil slugs.

Thanks,

bp

bp,

Mine seemed to run lighter loads as it broke in. I don't know how many rounds yours has through it , but mine will run the 1250 fps 1 1/8oz #8 shot loads without a problem. I know it's not as light as you wanted, just thought I'd share what mine did. I've put about 500 rounds through it.

Carl

[nipplehead]

Yes you can make it run with out going crazy with a drill.

Polish the out side of the mag tube ,get it as smooth as possible using finer and finer grades of sand paper. I used 2000 grit on mine.

After that run the entire piston assembly , Orings ,and that polished mag tube shaft WET with Moble 1.

If after that you still cannot get it to run you might have to open the ports slightly, But if you do it will be a fraction of what most people have drilled their's too.

Do a search on 1000 gas ports for that info ...mine shoots light target loads 1145 fps...3dram

and might even shoot lighter then that. Its 100%.make sure you use new orings for competiion.

Also Patrick Sweeney has a post on the subject look for that one...he is an expert on shootguns amoung other things

Edited December 4, 2006 by nipplehead

[bp78]

I'll try breaking it in further and a polish job before touching the drill. Thanks for the responses, this site always has great info.

[Jimini]

I'll try breaking it in further and a polish job before touching the drill. Thanks for the responses, this site always has great info.

Dont forget the oil. It's the most important. If you fail to properly lube the spring and guide it will cause damage. Make sure it's wet.

Jim Norman-Florida

I'll try breaking it in further and a polish job before touching the drill. Thanks for the responses, this site always has great info.

Dont forget the oil. It's the most important. If you fail to properly lube the spring and guide it will cause damage. Make sure it's wet.

I'd do this first and then test before I spent a lot of time working. More than likely this will solve the porblem.

Jim Norman-Florida

[ShooterSteve]

Bigtime +1 on the oil! When my 1100cm was new it the action was kind of sticky, and not smooth at all. It took some break in time and oil for mine to get running. Now it runs like a champ! Take that forend off and oil it, and I do mean wet!

[bp78]

Thanks for the advice.

After today's pistol match, I took my 1100 out and it ran almost perfectly. Only the suggested thorough cleaning and a heavy 30w motor oil lube were necessary to run the cheap wal-mart stuff. I had 1 stovepipe out of about 40rds of a mix of cheap #8 & #7.5 rounds. No drilling necessary although I do plan to break it in some more before trying a 3G match.

Edited December 17, 2006 by bp78

[George]

Here is a link to parts diagrams and disassembly instructions for the 1100/11-87 guns:

http://www.3gunrules.com/documents/multi-gun-info/manuals/

3Dram 1.125 oz anysize shot oughta' run it fine with no drilling if it has a good O-ring in place and the gas system is clean & wet. Make sure the trigger group is also run wet (per Remington recommendations). I also recommend not drilling the ports until it is well broken in (500+ rounds). Then you will know what it needs for sure, if at all.

Use a synthetic, detergent motor oil so it won't carbonize. This will let the gas system just wipe clean if the parts are all polished to start with.

Get cheap, quality replacement O-Rings at : http://www.ericwesselman.com/

Change them everytime you clean the gas system (2-400 rounds).

[bp78]

Use a synthetic, detergent motor oil so it won't carbonize. This will let the gas system just wipe clean if the parts are all polished to start with.

The dinosaur juice did smoke a bit. I'll clean it up and try the mobile-1.

Thanks.

[uscbigdawg]

bp78,

Sure wish I'd have known there was a match today. I'd have driven up from Bragg. Damn it!

Anyways, pre-Benelli, I ran (and still occasionally will) my Briley built 1100. I love that gun. Briley and I tinkered with it for a couple of seasons years ago trying to make 'er 100% and like others have said, setup and broken in, you probably won't have to drill at all.

My big pieces of advice that keeps mine running 100% is keeping it clean!!! Specifically the trigger group, action bar deals inside the recever, the mag tube and ABSOLUTELY the gas ports inside the barrel ring. The Briley brush is perfect for this. Back it up with some pipe cleaners if your OCD is half as bad as mine.

Hit everything with a good heavy blow out with CRC Brakleen - Brake Parts Cleaner (you can get it at any auto parts store for about $3). Use in a well ventilated area and don't let it touch your skin (not corrosive, just has some harmful chemicals). Once dry a nice dusting with Corrosion-X and you're good to go!

Rich

[SGDM]

You do not need to do anything to the CM. I clean mine maybe 2 times a year, DPMS, Benning and the gun will run anything. I took it out of the box 2 years ago and has never even coughed.

So put yer drill and bits away and oil the crap out of the mag tube with a good synthetic oil from the o-ring back and go blast. Check the o-ring now and again and keep spares in your kit.

[ranger]

I shoot (at) lots of clay pigeons and I started competing in SC with a 1100. I never had problems keeping my 1100 or 11-87 functioning - I always kept my shell tube exterior well lubricated. When I saw a clay target shooter have problems with a 1100, it almost always was dry. Keep the 1100 well lubricated and that will solve most of your problems.