steel1212 Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I've been crimping around 375 or so and I'm thinking that might be a little tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I don't measure 9x crimp, I set to just flatten the case back against the bullet and maybe add a little shine to the case neck edge which shows some contact, but not enough to actually indent the bullet with the case mouth. I know I am there when the diameter of the case at the base of the bullet (measure at the bottom of the bullet bulge) is the same as at the case mouth and I can just see that little bit of shine were the crimp die kissed the case mouth edge. The measurement method of setting crimp is dependent on a specific size bullet being inserted into the case and may not work as well on a tapered case like the neener as it will on a straightwall case like .38 super and .45 auto. A .355 JHP will bulge the case a littlle differently than a .356 LSWC will when you seat it. Different brass is slightly different in thickness, etc, etc... BTW, the word crimp is a misnomer in a lot of "cases" (all pun intended). Mostly you just want to remove the bell of the case mouth put there for bullet seating reasons. In the case of a taper wall cartridge like the niner, you would ideally just want to return the case to the existing line of taper, but in practice, 9x reloads bulge a bit and setting crimp becomes more of an art than a science to make sure you don't dent/deform the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 (edited) Are you going to ask the crimp dimensions on every caliber (see that you asked the same question in the .40/10mm thread) or just look in a reloading manual once? I don't know if the mod's are watching, but flooding the boards with info like this is a waste of space (just my $0.02). Rich Edited November 25, 2006 by uscbigdawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Exactly why I responded Rich. This type of question deserves an explanation. There really is no hard and fast crimp solution IMO. I believe it should be sorted out on a case by case basis (pun intended again). There are too many variables to accept a one-size-fits-all answer here. Other than just flattening the case out again, there is no one answer to rely on for setting crimp. Just tossing out a measurement is a lot like just tossing out a charge weight without stipulating OAL, bullet vs. bore size and case volume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billdncn Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 (edited) Approx. 377" for me. Bullet dia. plus 2X wall thickness. I checked some factory loadings, and it was about .375". I don't think a thou. or two will kill it. No need to overwork your brass. Just do the math, and don't look back. Don't crimp to hold the bullet. Just take out the belling of the case mouth. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Are you going to ask the crimp dimensions on every caliber (see that you asked the same question in the .40/10mm thread) or just look in a reloading manual once? I don't know if the mod's are watching, but flooding the boards with info like this is a waste of space (just my $0.02). Rich Give the guy a break. Flooding the board with OT stuff would be a waste of space. Nothing wrong with his question. IMO your reply was a far more "waste of space". What does it matter if he ask they same type question for a different caliber? There are a lot of Nubee's here. No need to try, and give them a complex. I don't own a reloading manual.....I have the internet. Yes he could have done a search, and easily found info. I agree. I too am new to reloading the "9", so this question is of interest to me Lighten up Edited November 25, 2006 by billdncn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billdncn Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I've been crimping around 375 or so and I'm thinking that might be a little tight? Here's a good read......... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17887 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 (edited) I've been crimping around 375 or so and I'm thinking that might be a little tight? Here's a good read......... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17887 Damn guys I'm just trying to compare my measurements with the horde. I also already take the bell out as I've read that as well but there has to be a general measurements or one you won't go past. I know with diffrent bullets and what not the crimp will be a little diffrent. I've read the books but how often a lot of you load something that aren't in the books? I asked in each caliber I reload as I know someopeople crimp diffrently with lead over jacketed and I don't load lead in 9mm. Sorry I had a question. Edited November 25, 2006 by steel1212 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 The "add the bullet diameter to twice the case thickness" answer is as close as you are gonna' get to a measurement that works everywhere. Even then, this not exactly what a taper wall cartridge like the neener wants/needs. Eyeballing the case walls flat again and checking with a caliper that the case mouth has the same diameter as the bottom of the bullet bulge is about as close to a specific number as you are gonna' get. That measurement will not necessarily be the same as someone elses is which is why I won't say a number. IMHO, there ain't no such thing as an exact specification for the proper amount of crimp for any specific cartridge. Again, crimping is all about removing the bell from the case mouth, not squeezing it down in size. The size die sets the case ID and this tension on the bullet is what holds it, not after the fact crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansy Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 (edited) Instead of asking the same question in all calibers just post it once in the reloading main page I find that when I uses Plated stuff compared to jacketed like Montana Gold and Hornady.....I back off my crimp dies just a little....because it seem to crush the plated....and that Might (??) affect the flight of the bullet....didn't test that and I won't....easy enough to do. My jacket reloads do not have any marking on the bullets when pulled, and I want the same for the plated when I use them (indoor only so shorter distances) Edited November 27, 2006 by dansy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 For what it's worth, I crimp to .379-.380 with Berry's and Zero. I've had no problems with set back or feeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestDesRat Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 For what it's worth, I crimp to .379-.380 with Berry's and Zero. I've had no problems with set back or feeding. Same here. Shooting a stock Glock. If you have a tight chamber, you may want to chamber check a few rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I just taper size the case until the flare goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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