revchuck Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 (edited) Folks - When trying to lighten the DA, there appear to be three options: a) full length strain screw, much lighter mainspring, b ) somewhat shorter strain screw, somewhat lighter mainspring, and c) still shorter strain screw and full power factory mainspring. (I realize I'm ignoring the effect of the rebound spring...one thing at a time!) Is one method preferable to the others, or is it a toss-up? Or is the answer "none of the above"? Also, how much length is taken off the strain screw for one turn? TIA! Edited July 21, 2006 by revchuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Chuck, I can tell you what works for me. First, smooth your action as much as possible. This may go without saying, but if the action is glass-smooth, I don't notice a heavier trigger. Now, what I have done on my 625 and 610 is use standard springs in both the mainspring and the rebound spring. I back my strain screw out until I get a mis-fire and then back 1/4 turn. I locktite in place and shoot for a while to ensure 100% reliability. When I am happy with it, I will turn in the strainscrew until it bottoms out, counting the number of turns. Once I know how far it is, it is a matter of removing that much material. I'm sorry but I can't tell you the thread on the screw, but you can measure it thread to thread with your calipers easily. Now my disclaimer. I had a brand new sprain screw in my hand before I started screwing with my original. I still have that new screw, but I was a lot more confident in what I was doing knowing I could go back. Thats what works for me. It isn't one of Randy Lee's superslick, ultra-light bobbed hammer jobs, but the rounds go bang when I pull the trigger. Have fun dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 My goal in a competition DA revolver action is about 6 smooth pounds (give or take a little), which I believe is about the threshold for sustainable ignition reliability without having to get really fussy about ammo, moonclips, and maintenance. In accomplishing this, I bend the stock mainspring and usually reduce the length of the strain screw a bit. (Doing all the adjustment at the strain screw can cause knuckling if you go too light.) Years ago when I started doing revolver actions, I did all the mainspring adjustment by shortening the strain screw. (I had tried spring kits, but they usually seemed better than stock, but still way too heavy.) I was always paranoid about getting too close to the edge, because then the strain screw was ruined and I would have to run up to the gun shop and buy another. It never even dawned on me to bend the spring until one night before a pin match I was trying to do the action on a new revolver I really wanted to shoot. I got everything all done and went out to test-fire the gun, and was disappointed to find that it misfired every once in awhile. I had no extra strain screw and the gun shop was closed, and standing there looking at it, I decided--screw it--I'm gonna take vise grips and tweak that mainspring back just a little to give it a bit more tension. Needless to say, it worked fine, and kept on working fine. I then discovered if you could add tension by bending the leaf, you could also readily reduce tension by simply bending it the other way. So now when I set up an action (obviously, I also hone the internals to make everything nice and smooth), I buzz down the strain screw a little (can't tell you exactly how much), then bend the mainspring (again, can't quantify it, but I've done enough of them I can usually get it pretty close), then put it back together and test-fire. Usually I've got it a little too light and I have to increase the tension just a bit to make sure I will get no clicks. Then I balance the rebound spring (usually trimming 2 or 2.5 coils, sometimes more) to the appropriate tension--it's definitely a good idea to have a few extra rebound springs around, because you can't bend 'em back, and the worse thing you can have (other than a gun that goes click when it should go bang) is sluggish rebound. There's more to doing an action than just spring work, of course, but spring work is still the heart of a great competition revolver action. The factory sends them out so oversprung it's ridiculous. Bottom line--don't be afraid to bend 'em. You don't need to throw money away on aftermarket revolver springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 The best way to adjust trigger pull using the strian screw is to drill and tap the frame and install a set screw that goes thru to hold the strain screw in place. That way you do not have to alter the length of the strian screw and can make adjustments as the springs in the gun weaken or to match the primers you are using. In the event someting happens that you have to use factory ammo or different primers you can tighten the strain screw and have the gun function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Folks - When trying to lighten the DA, there appear to be three options: a) full length strain screw, much lighter mainspring, b ) somewhat shorter strain screw, somewhat lighter mainspring, and c) still shorter strain screw and full power factory mainspring. (I realize I'm ignoring the effect of the rebound spring...one thing at a time!) Is one method preferable to the others, or is it a toss-up? Or is the answer "none of the above"?Also, how much length is taken off the strain screw for one turn? TIA! If it's s duty or defense gun, leave the springs alone. If it for sport shooting:Here's the easy option: blue Loctite on the strain screw threads. If the mainspring is stock, a good place to start is all the way in and back out 3/4 turns. You can keep coming out until you get a misfire and then go in about 1/4 turn. Second option: clamp the bottom third of the maonspring in a panavise (plastic jaws) and do a "mandrel bend" on the upper 1/3 of the spring. Use a round bending form (a large screwdriver handle works). I believe the Mikulek after market spring has a curved bend at the top. If you get the bend just right, it allows fully screwing in the strain screw. I NEVER GRIND SCREWS. WHY? Because then if I get a misfire, I am screwed (literally, not in the fun way). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 My goal in a competition DA revolver action is about 6 smooth pounds (give or take a little), which I believe is about the threshold for sustainable ignition reliability without having to get really fussy about ammo, moonclips, and maintenance. In accomplishing this, I bend the stock mainspring and usually reduce the length of the strain screw a bit. (Doing all the adjustment at the strain screw can cause knuckling if you go too light.) Years ago when I started doing revolver actions, I did all the mainspring adjustment by shortening the strain screw. (I had tried spring kits, but they usually seemed better than stock, but still way too heavy.) I was always paranoid about getting too close to the edge, because then the strain screw was ruined and I would have to run up to the gun shop and buy another. It never even dawned on me to bend the spring until one night before a pin match I was trying to do the action on a new revolver I really wanted to shoot. I got everything all done and went out to test-fire the gun, and was disappointed to find that it misfired every once in awhile. I had no extra strain screw and the gun shop was closed, and standing there looking at it, I decided--screw it--I'm gonna take vise grips and tweak that mainspring back just a little to give it a bit more tension. Needless to say, it worked fine, and kept on working fine. I then discovered if you could add tension by bending the leaf, you could also readily reduce tension by simply bending it the other way. So now when I set up an action (obviously, I also hone the internals to make everything nice and smooth), I buzz down the strain screw a little (can't tell you exactly how much), then bend the mainspring (again, can't quantify it, but I've done enough of them I can usually get it pretty close), then put it back together and test-fire. Usually I've got it a little too light and I have to increase the tension just a bit to make sure I will get no clicks. Then I balance the rebound spring (usually trimming 2 or 2.5 coils, sometimes more) to the appropriate tension--it's definitely a good idea to have a few extra rebound springs around, because you can't bend 'em back, and the worse thing you can have (other than a gun that goes click when it should go bang) is sluggish rebound. There's more to doing an action than just spring work, of course, but spring work is still the heart of a great competition revolver action. The factory sends them out so oversprung it's ridiculous. Bottom line--don't be afraid to bend 'em. You don't need to throw money away on aftermarket revolver springs. Could you please enlighten us as to where and how much you bend the mainspring to start? I realize the final answer will probably be a little different for each gun, but, a starting point would be helpful.. Maybe a before and after photo? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I NEVER GRIND SCREWS.WHY? Because then if I get a misfire, I am screwed (literally, not in the fun way). Like I said above, you just bend the mainspring back slightly and you're fine. Could you please enlighten us as to where and how much you bend the mainspring to start? I realize the final answer will probably be a little different for each gun, but, a starting point would be helpful.. Maybe a before and after photo? Thanks I put the bend more or less in the middle of the leaf. Can't really describe how much bend I give it, other than to say that only the last few turns of the strain screw seem to be adding tension to the spring. Usually my initial bend is a little too much, and I have to tweak it back a little to get 100% ignition. It's more art than science. You got nothing to lose by just digging in and working on it. (I don't think I've ever ruined a factory mainspring, but if I ever do, it's only a $4 part!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41mag Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Could you please enlighten us as to where and how much you bend the mainspring to start? I realize the final answer will probably be a little different for each gun, but, a starting point would be helpful.. Maybe a before and after photo? Thanks I made the first bend just big enough that I knew I had bent it for sure and that got me about half way there. 41mag (Quote Carmoney:) I put the bend more or less in the middle of the leaf. Can't really describe how much bend I give it, other than to say that only the last few turns of the strain screw seem to be adding tension to the spring. Usually my initial bend is a little too much, and I have to tweak it back a little to get 100% ignition. It's more art than science. You got nothing to lose by just digging in and working on it. (I don't think I've ever ruined a factory mainspring, but if I ever do, it's only a $4 part!) Thank you gentlemen for a great bit of information that I put to use today. I installed the JM spring kit but was still over 11lb pull. I used the strain screw to lighten the pull until I had misfires with CCI and than started retighting until it was lighting them 100%. I was averageing 8lb 12oz on the Lyman gauge. With that info and goal in mind I started bending the spring and seating the strain screw home. The trick I want to add here is this....before you bend the spring lay it on its edge and trace its profile with a pen on a piece of paper. Bend, reinstall and test. If you need to add or remove bend you can compare how much to your trace. Make a new trace and reinstall. Repeat till your happy. I had to bend mine twice to end up with 9lb even. I will start over when I switch to Federal primers. love this forum 41mag ps I'm not very good with the quotes yet, sorry about the above hack job (hope its clear enough) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 After smoothing the action and cylinder rotation, I bend the main spring and adjust the rebound spring. I installed 2 pins on the fixture I have for straightening the rods so my bends are always in the same place and I can gauge the amount of bend. By bending at the top third, I am able to get light smooth actions that will fire all primers. Here is the fixture: Another view: Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haras Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Neat, what's the center to center on the pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Neat, what's the center to center on the pins? 3/4" Top pin is sized to the hook on the spring, bottom pin is slightly larger. Years ago, I used to narrow the width of the spring also. Eventually, they failed but they worked real well for PPC. Now I use stock springs most of the time but I still like the Wolfe springs for different applications. Carry guns get the Wolfe Power Rib standard spring and it is adjusted from there. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imashooter2 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Neat, what's the center to center on the pins? 3/4" Top pin is sized to the hook on the spring, bottom pin is slightly larger. Years ago, I used to narrow the width of the spring also. Eventually, they failed but they worked real well for PPC. Now I use stock springs most of the time but I still like the Wolfe springs for different applications. Carry guns get the Wolfe Power Rib standard spring and it is adjusted from there. Regards, Round_Gun_Shooter, I used an expedient version of your jig yesterday (appropriately sized nails in a 2 x 4). It made it easy to control the bending and a lot less hit and miss. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Just remember guys, this is art more than science. Each gun is different. That's why the various spring kits are so hit and miss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Just remember guys, this is art more than science. Each gun is different. That's why the various spring kits are so hit and miss. +1 on that. My jig is set up for bending to get full hits on all primers. I use other methods for Federal primers that give lighter spring tension. Reason for this is, a friend that is a commercial reloader gave me a bunch of slightly more than major PF 45ACP that I can use up and not have to reload for a while. Great practice and local match fodder and since that is all I will be doing, I can cover the press and just shoot Edited January 30, 2007 by Round_Gun_Shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 My jig is set up for bending to get full hits on all primers. I use other methods for Federal primers that give lighter spring tension. Ahemm, could you care to explain a bit more about that? Or are you giving away to much information to the competition if you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 My jig is set up for bending to get full hits on all primers. I use other methods for Federal primers that give lighter spring tension. Ahemm, could you care to explain a bit more about that? Or are you giving away to much information to the competition if you do? Well Roger, there is nothing more I do than what has been discussed at length. My bends for Federal primer loads are more toward the middle of the spring. I also use Wolfe springs at times. I am real fond of the Wolfe Reduced power main spring with a 13# rebound spring that has 2 coils cut off. Then shorten the strain screw a tad and use an extended firing pin that has been polished to make sure it travels free. All this after proper stoning of the internals to make sure everything functions smooth. Want some parts with those clip holders???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Hi Gary. OK, I get it. I have sent you a PM regarding parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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