Barrel Link & Slide Stop

[Bdavis]

I've got an SA GI that I am wanting to build into a custom gun. As would be expected there is slight movement when you push down on the chambere/Hood when the gun is in battery. When I "miked" the slide stop pin it measures -- .197; while the bottom hole of the link is at .207.

I have yet to check the barrel in the slide and the slide on the frame without the slide pin inserted. Will be doing that when I get home. As a quick question: should there be that much difference between the pin and the link hole? Would replacing the slide stop help with the slight movement in the barrel?

I was thinking about replacing the factrory barrel, but this should 2" groups at 25 yards. But the incorrect fit does bug me.

Bill

[Guy Neill]

Are the bottom lugs of the barrel contacting the slide stop pin? This is what should be controlling the lockup. Since you are getting movement, it indicates the bottom lugs are not in contact with the pin as they should be.

The largest slide stop pin diameter, as I understand it, is 0.200", so the 0.207" hole in the link seems okay to allow rotation on the pin.

Guy

[38stupid]

I had a simular problem with my SA 1911. The gun was locking up on the link.

In addition, I had excessive head space in the barrel. I purchased a head space gage set

and measured the relationship of the head of the gage to the hood (on a CMM) and found

out I needed a new barrel.

Bob

[Bdavis]

I understand that the lock up takes place between the lugs and the pin. I was just hoping that could be fixed by something than a new barrel. I guess I should have known, the fit of the hood is quite sloppy, but the gun is accurate. Thanks for the reply

[jpl]

Bill, try an EGW slide stop. They generally run .199 to .200. If that doesn't tighten it up you could try a shorter link, but be mindful of the timing and how the barrel will bed.

[Radical Precision Designs]

I've got an SA GI that I am wanting to build into a custom gun. As would be expected there is slight movement when you push down on the chambere/Hood when the gun is in battery. When I "miked" the slide stop pin it measures -- .197; while the bottom hole of the link is at .207.

I have yet to check the barrel in the slide and the slide on the frame without the slide pin inserted. Will be doing that when I get home. As a quick question: should there be that much difference between the pin and the link hole? Would replacing the slide stop help with the slight movement in the barrel?

I was thinking about replacing the factrory barrel, but this should 2" groups at 25 yards. But the incorrect fit does bug me.

Bill

Earlier today, a friend called me to ask if he should buy a similar gun as a base for a custom project. I suggested not to, as he had in mind and extensive list of changes, and he would be buying a brand new gun to start with. I told him to purchase it and leave it alone as it came, as a "nostalgia" thing.

While this gun mimics in looks the original GI is by no means the same. It is made with better materials and fitting parts, and normally makes a good casual shooter. In order to customize it there are a lot of changes necessary requiring a tidy sum of money for the parts. And then you would have a bunch of perfectly good "seconds" which you paid for with no home. I recommended my friend to start from scratch with the parts he wanted, and he would be better off.

Considering the gun as it comes from the factory it is loaded with cast parts for everything other than the barrel, but they are serviceable and tolerances are usually within or better than GI specs.

When you push the barrel down to test for movement, make sure the hammer is down, and if possible push forward at the rear of the slide to eliminate your pushing back the slide as you push down on the barrel, giving you a false "reading".

As you seem to like the grouping as it is ... ... leave it alone.

My $0.02 IMHO.

[benny hill]

I agree.

[bountyhunter]

I understand that the lock up takes place between the lugs and the pin. I was just hoping that could be fixed by something than a new barrel. I guess I should have known, the fit of the hood is quite sloppy, but the gun is accurate. Thanks for the reply

If you change the link and stop to take out the play, be advised: the link controls the movement of the barrel as it goes in and out of lockup. The change would cause it to "push up" into the slide cuts earlier in the lockup motion. It might be no problem or it might cause interference and round over the edges of the upper barrel lugs. That destroys a barrel.

If it shoots well, I vote for the camp whose philosophy is don't try to fix something that's already working....

Edited July 13, 2006 by bountyhunter

[Bdavis]

I understand that the lock up takes place between the lugs and the pin. I was just hoping that could be fixed by something than a new barrel. I guess I should have known, the fit of the hood is quite sloppy, but the gun is accurate. Thanks for the reply

If you change the link and stop to take out the play, be advised: the link controls the movement of the barrel as it goes in and out of lockup. The change would cause it to "push up" into the slide cuts earlier in the lockup motion. It might be no problem or it might cause interference and round over the edges of the upper barrel lugs. That destroys a barrel.

If it shoots well, I vote for the camp whose philosophy is don't try to fix something that's already working....

Gentlemen,

thanks for the information. I did replace the slide stop with an EGW and it helped considerable. I am getting very light rub marks on the slide stop pin with the lower lugs would make contact. Gun shoot very good, goes bang every time I pull the trigger. I also should mention that I won the gun at the Single Stack Nationals, that is what allows me to make all these changes. Having a riot doing the work and learning a great deal about the complex interaction of the system.