Open Gun Optic Question (please Help!)

[chad allred]

I finally got my own open gun!I have always wanted one of these and now that I got one I need a little advice.It is a Eaa witness single action comped 9mm.It came with a 30mm Tasco pro point and I have a lot of trouble finding the dot on my draws.After I find the dot I am fine.My question is:Should I Get a weaver mount and buy a C-more sight set up for this gun?I live right next to Piru and am only going to use it for the Steel Challenge matches.Any imput would be greatly appriciated!Thanks in advance....Chad

Edited July 9, 2006 by chad allred

[BritinUSA]

If you have been used to shooting an iron-sighted gun then adapting to the open gun will take some time. The dot sits much higher than the front sight.

I would suggest practicing the draw as much as possible at home (empty gun of course). In time you will find that you are able to pick up the dot much quicker. You have to adapt to the change in configuration with the gun compared to iron sights.

[Jon Merricks]

Not finding the dot comes from not having the proper draw. You would probably have the same problems with a cmore until you work on your draw. I fought the same thing for about half a season when I started shooting open.

I would also think that you could put the cmore on the mount you have. I can't really tell by the picture but it looks like you could just drill and tap the two holes for the cmore and be good to go.

Good Luck

[chad allred]

Thanks guys!You are probably right about the "draw".I have only shot iron sighted pistols so this optic thing is kinda new(and very cool) it just seems that a "tubeless sight" might be better?

BTW my scope mount has built in 30mm rings for the pro point,can I get a C-more on that mount if I machine off the built in rings and tap some holes?

[BritinUSA]

Actually the tube is better for learning as the view through the tube will indicate if it is pointed left/right or up/down.

For a good draw you should basically bring the gun up parallel to the ground in front of your face then push out towards the target. Practice this slowly at first and gradually bring the speed up.

Once you can pick up the dot each time then you may want to consider a C-More as it is a tad lighter and offers a wider field of view.

BTW my scope mount has built in 30mm rings for the pro point,can I get a C-more on that mount if I machine off the built in rings and tap some holes?

I should think that this would be possible, although I am no gunsmith. Perhaps someone better qualified can answer this one...

[ipscbob]

Assuming that the same mount is used, the dot in a tube sight will always be closer to where iron sights would be by almost an inch(thickness of CMORE body). Therefore, the problem would only be made worse by switching to a CMORE. Practice is all that is needed.

Once you can pick up the dot each time then you may want to consider a C-More as it is a tad lighter and offers a wider field of view.

I have heard this rationale before, but it really makes no sense. The difference in weight is less than an ounce typically and the field of view is NOT limited by the tube. Assuming that you focus on the target, you will not see the tube body at all.

Edited July 9, 2006 by ipscbob

[wide45]

Not finding the dot is usually caused by inconsistant grip in the draw. You need to work at putting your weak hand on the gun the same way every time. Try working backwards from your shooting stance to see how it comes together.

I could never work the up then out draw, like Jerry demonstrates in his videos. Voigt teaches the draw like what Benos has in the book.

[eric nielsen]

As they say, a C-more would only make your problems worse - right now anyway. May be the sight you want to go to eventually but it's challenging to find the dot. Try what Wide45 suggests, this applies to any new gun but esp. if you're new to Open:

-----

Start with the gun sighted on a target and work BACK to putting the gun in the holster. Do this as smoothly and efficiently as you can, ignore the draw from the holster.

As you come back from the target, look to keep the gun as high as you can, for as long as you can, held as level to the target as you can, within the limits of YOUR body mechanics.

Look to keep your support hand on the gun, wrist cammed down in a good grip, for as long as you can until somewhere in front of the holster it just HAS to tilt/pivot off of the gun. The finger under the triggerguard should be the last part to leave the gun. Then put the gun into the holster with as solid a grip and wrist cam as you can.

Pay attention to what the gun looks like relative to the target as you come back toward the holster. Your focus is out on the target. Just notice what's there, don't force anything.

Do this backwards motion about 3-dozen times in a row until you see what's going to work well for you and then do even more reps to make it feel natural.

Then start to slowly draw back onto the target. You should pick up some visual cues on the way out, also your hands & arms may feel like they've "been there" already. The dot should come into view a lot more consistently .

Edited July 10, 2006 by eric nielsen

[chad allred]

Thanks for the exelent pointers guys!!!

[wolfgang]

Ok , one more suggestion from me:

1st and esential thing: practice the draw. You can not buy a consistent draw and initial find of the Dot. No matter what setup you will choose.

Beside that:

my personal finds are: the higher the scope, the mor problems you will have. C-more is the worst in this.

I´ve shot Aimpoint for years and they are fine if they don´t break.

For one year I´m now playing around with Docter´s and find these ideal for fats target aquisition. It´s VERY close to the speed of iron sigths because you can really point the gun into the target and use the dot for precision.

But: you need to fix the cable problem (hot glue) in order to make the Docter last, even on a mount.

Another benefit of the Docter is the total clear ejection area. There is sinply nothing to catch the ejected brass, and so you will have a better reliability for your Open pistol.

See comparision of the scopes in the pict.

[Larry White]

Chad, nice pistol. If that is the mount I think it is the rings are held to the mount with a screw thur the bottom and may already have the holes for a c more. But I always found it easier to find the dot with a tube sight. Dry fire and practice are the answer for now. That pistol should be a really fun steel gun.-----Larry

[Radical Precision Designs]

Chad, nice pistol. If that is the mount I think it is the rings are held to the mount with a screw thur the bottom and may already have the holes for a c more. But I always found it easier to find the dot with a tube sight. Dry fire and practice are the answer for now. That pistol should be a really fun steel gun. (and/or 9mm Major!!! )-----Larry

I've been playing on and off with a CZ-75 Champion in 9mm with a JPoint and Docter red dot slide mounted. I am putting 9mm Major (not minor) loads through it and having a wonderful time while I work in one of my Hyper-Jet Comps for it. But even with the original factory comp it works nice. I do like the frame mounted base you have in your gun as it has the potential of accepting a C-More or Docter positioned to the rear to give you barrel ports clearance.