Kevin J Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I just purchased a S&W 629 .44 Mag. After test firing a couple of rounds, I did my due dilligence, went home and broke out the cleaing gear. But to my surprise, I found that there was a hole in the underside of the barrel. It seems that when the smith was drilling the underside of the barrel to mount the underside weight, he went a little too deep. So basically, there is a hole that travels clean through the underside of the barrel. Thankfully it's a clean hole and looks just like a port would, just in a bad spot. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 (edited) Beat the gunsmith over the head with the gun. That would drive me nuts. I'd Re-barrel it, or sell it to a dumbsh*t brother in law. Edited May 4, 2006 by Derek45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Man. I wouldn't be too happy with (a) the "gunsmith" or (2) the guy who sold it to me. As long as the screw doesn't protrude into the bore, it probably isn't really hurting anything. Guess you could shoot it and not worry about it (and don't sell it without telling the prospective purchaser about the problem), or have a new barrel put on the gun. Don't feel too bad. I bought an expensive H&K rifle at a gun show once and discovered later that it had a bulged barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin J Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 I might just end up listing it with full disclosure. Any one have any perspective prices on rebarreling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I assume there's a screw in the hole (?) so it's not venting. Just shoot it for whatever purpose you originally intended. It won't hurt anything even though you know it's there. If the air gap between your cylinder and barrel doesn't bother you, and neither would a port, just run it like a rented mule. I wouldn't replace the barrel until it wears out or cracks (breaks). Of course, if you paid a premium price for what was presented as a flawless gun, you might have a chat with the seller regarding a rebate. If you got a good price to start with, consider the "feature" as factored into the price. The gun and your bullets won't care either way as long as nothing is sticking up in the bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revchuck Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Kevin - How long is the barrel, and where is the hole located? It might be worth your while to cut the barrel off behind the hole and have another front sight mounted. If you want to get another barrel installed, it'd probably be most cost-effective if you had the factory do it (unless you can find another barrel cheap, and know a local revolversmith who knows what he's doing - unlike the one who caused the problem). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I think S&W quoted me $50 labor plus the price of a new barrel. not unreasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 After a few hundred Lead Loads the hole might fill up. Might even forget it's there. But don't forget to tell any future buyers it's there. What is the Underside Weight that was added on? Is this for Silhouette Matches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin J Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 >>I assume there's a screw in the hole (?) so it's not venting. Yup, you got it right. There's an allen head machine screw threaded into the hole. It's too short to become an obstruction. >>If the air gap between your cylinder and barrel doesn't bother you, and neither >>would port, just run it like a rented mule. I wouldn't replace the barrel until it wears out >>or cracks (breaks). I'm starting to think along those lines!!! To be completely honest, I'm not really all that upset about the (w)hole thing (pun intended). I was just worried that maybe there was a saftey issue I was missing besides the obvious of an obstruction poking up through the "inappropiately placed porting". I picked this up off a guy that was cleaning out his safe for house money. I admit it was definetly a shock, but he and I have worked everything out for the better. The guy is really stand up, so no worries there mate. But for the life of me, I have no idea what this gun was made for! It might have been a Gun Smith School project, but the trigger job is way to good for that. I mean this thing's lock up is absolutly steallar. I actually was thinking of trading it for a new CZ TS, but who knows! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Looks like a Silhouette gun. The Wichita rib on the gun has four settings, one for each of the four ranges encountered in a full Silhouette match (50, 100, 150, and 200 yards). There's a little wheel with a notch in it and four allen head screws that fit into the notch in the wheel when the respective number is visible in a little window. They're a real bear to zero, but once you're there it holds zero well. The underlug looks like a standard PPC underlug, there to add some weight to keep the sights steady and recoil down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Figured it was something like that or a PPC pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Figured it was something like that or a PPC pistol. My PPC gun has the same rib. I use positions 1 & 2 for shooting 25 yards and 50 yards, respectively, when under a covered shooting position. Numbers 3 & 4 are for the same yardages under direct sunlight. You'd be suprised how much that extra light can affect where you hit! And I don't use a neck hold, I have a hard enough time remembering everything else when I'm shooting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Shot NMSS, civilian PPC, back in the '80's. Never used a PPC Revolver though. Even though you have plenty of time, the x-ring is so small it's so easy to try to finesse the shot. Which always cost me more than it's worth. .44 would be a little much for PPC, but I shot a .45 with Major Loads most of the time and did rather well. Used a stock m28 when I wanted to shoot Revo in it back then. PPC, Silhouette & Bianchi Cup Revolvers can get pretty wild. And Silhouette does use some MAJOR Loads that can really wear a pistol out quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Shot NMSS, civilian PPC, back in the '80's. Never used a PPC Revolver though. Even though you have plenty of time, the x-ring is so small it's so easy to try to finesse the shot. Which always cost me more than it's worth..44 would be a little much for PPC, but I shot a .45 with Major Loads most of the time and did rather well. Used a stock m28 when I wanted to shoot Revo in it back then. PPC, Silhouette & Bianchi Cup Revolvers can get pretty wild. And Silhouette does use some MAJOR Loads that can really wear a pistol out quick. PPC is like Bullseye with different shooting positions. It looks easy, and the times are generous, but over the course of 150 rounds it's easy for something to go horribly wrong. The matches are real close to home for me and fit my schedule. I also like the people I get to shoot with (but that's true of all the shooting games I play) and the trigger time you get. The average match for me is 456 rounds. Lots of opportunities to concentrate on that whole "sight alignment, trigger control" thing. Plus they feed you at the matches . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Hot damn. Nice heater. How's the lockup and cylinder gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin J Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 (edited) Hot damn. Nice heater.How's the lockup and cylinder gap? I'm no revolver expert here....but they are pretty wonderful from my perspective. How do you judge the lock-up? I've never really been shown, but what I'm looking for is how the clyinder moves when I pull the hammer. Is that right? --KJ Edited May 5, 2006 by Kevin J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 PPC is like Bullseye with different shooting positions. It looks easy, and the times are generous, but over the course of 150 rounds it's easy for something to go horribly wrong. Boy is that an understatement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Kevin, I don't know S&W's that well, so someone else will have to chime in. I always get confused between S&W and Colt as far as gauging lockup. Cylinder gap I generally just eyeball. Man...I wish I hadn't made a bunch of goofy expenditures lately because...well...that's a nice ride. I'd be PMing you an offer on it. What's not to like about a 44 mag that's set up for 200 yards? What a fun revo. E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I don't know S&W's that well, so someone else will have to chime in. I always get confused between S&W and Colt as far as gauging lockup. Cylinder gap I generally just eyeball. There are far more qualified people on this forum, but here's what I do: -With the hammer down, wiggle the cylinder side-to-side, note any excessive play. Do this for each cylinder. -If the gun has a single action, cock the gun and perform the same test as above. -While you have the gun cocked, try to move the cylinder back and forth (towards and away from the forcing cone). This will show excessive endplay. -The old MK I, Mod. 0 eyeball is fine for the cylinder gap check if you don't walk around with a set of feeler gauges. -After you get the owner's permission to dryfire the gun, observe the rotation of the cylinder to see if the gun carries up smoothly and fully on each cylinder. And if he doesn't give you permission, ask why. If he says its bad for the gun, tell him that's a load of crap. I'd be wary of anybody that doesn't let you dryfire a used gun, or test drive a used car. If you buy lots of used revolvers or need an excuse to buy another gadget you can get timing rods. They're caliber specific rods which are just at land diameter of the barrel. With the hammer cocked you run the rod down the barrel and see if it hits the cylinder face after passing through the forcing cone. Get them here from Brownells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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