Busted P9 Slide Stop

[Gillster]

The slide stop on my son's P9 open gun broke in 2 the other evening, shooting minor loads for steel shooting, and I was wondering about the best place to get a new one or an alternative. In a search, I saw some folks using hardened pins as replacements. Any advice on how/where to get a couple? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

[davidwiz]

EGW should still have slide stops for the P9.

[Chuck D]

EGW (Evolution Gun Works) used to make hardened pins...they were quite good.

You could contact Tanfoglio directly, they make stronger slide stops for their Custom guns and they are NOT the same part number as the ones offered for the stock versions of their guns. You need to order one for the correct size frame version of the Gold Custom or Gold Custom Eric models.

[L9X25]

Measure the diameter of the rod and you will learn that it is a common size that can be purchased at almost any metal supply house. Buy a 12" piece and you will have enough material make numerous replacements. All it will take is 2 minutes with a dremel to duplicate the tapered end that is retained by the spring. You can choose hardened "drill rod" or other metals. Others might be able to recommend a particular "hardness" or type of steel.

The slide stop on my son's P9 open gun broke in 2 the other evening, shooting minor loads for steel shooting, and I was wondering about the best place to get a new one or an alternative.  In a search, I saw some folks using hardened pins as replacements.  Any advice on how/where to get a couple?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

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[Carlos]

All good advice; EGW for a custom part, Tanfoglio for supperior factory part or make your own (non-lock back slide).

The CZ/Tanfoglio design results in extremely high slide velocity compared to a 1911. This is fine but for the punishment imparted to the slide stop. My CZ (the standard IPSC model) came with 3 replacement slide stops in anticipation of IPSC Major loads & rugged use.

[Bob Hostetter]

Actually the problem is not so much the slide velocity as the way the gun is designed to stop the rearward movement of the barrel during the unlocking cycle.

The cutout in the lower barel lug impacts the slide stop pin which is what stops the barrel. The pin is asked to absorb all the energy without help which in a lot of cases results in the pin breaking. The 1911 for example catches the barrel by the lower lug striking the frame which is why there isn't a breakage problem. However if the frame on a 1911 is improperly cut forcing the barrel link to catch the barrel at the end of the unlocking arc, then the link will break.

You have a couple of choices........You can and should replace the pin with a hardened pin (we use heat treated 416 stainless) but if you do this with major loads there is a possibility of breaking the lower barrel lug unless the barrel is striking the pin and the frame at (or close to) the same time in order to share the impact energy. Depending on the gun and the barrel you might need to build up the contact points on the frame or lower the contact points on the barrel which is actually the proper with to build a CZ/P9/EAA/ etc...................

[L9X25]

Everything that Bob says below, and add the fact that an Open gun has the added weight of a longer barrel and comp added into the equation. The barrel "lug" and slide stop pin are very stressed!

Leo

Actually the problem is not so much the slide velocity as the way the gun is designed to stop the rearward movement of the barrel during the unlocking cycle.

The cutout in the lower barel lug impacts the slide stop pin which is what stops the barrel. The pin is asked to absorb all the energy without help which in a lot of cases results in the pin breaking. The 1911 for example catches the barrel by the lower lug striking the frame which is why there isn't a breakage problem. However if the frame on a 1911 is improperly cut forcing the barrel link to catch the barrel at the end of the unlocking arc, then the link will break.

You have a couple of choices........You can and should replace the pin with a hardened pin (we use heat treated 416 stainless) but if you do this with major loads there is a possibility of breaking the lower barrel lug unless the barrel is striking the pin and the frame at (or close to) the same time in order to share the impact energy. Depending on the gun and the barrel you might need to build up the contact points on the frame or lower the contact points on the barrel which is actually the proper with to build a CZ/P9/EAA/ etc...................

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[Jager1147]

I shot a Tanfoglio TZ-75 small frame 9x21 major for ipsc for about 12 years. I broke 1 slide stop, the original one because they are too hard and brittle, and recoil spring was too weak. I used special recoil springs from george Heuning and slide stops purchased from EAA, problem solved. Get the springs from EGW, his slide stop pins are just as good also.

Edited September 27, 2005 by Jager1147