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650 or 1050


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Going to start loading. Trying to  decide between the two.  Some say 1050 faster. Others are telling me 650 . Easier to use. Also the big one for me is that the no bs warranty does not apply to 1050. 

 

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It depends on what you are reloading. I went with the 1050 because of the swaging station and priming on the downstroke. I have not used a 650 so I can't give you a comparison. The 1050 is very easy to use. However, it is very expensive to add additional calibers. I have a separate toolhead for each caliber I load. It takes me about 15 minutes to change from small to large primer setups. I don't have a Mark 7 (which would be nice), but I do have a MBF and it takes me about 3 minutes to load 100 rounds by hand. I have had to get one replacement part, but it was because of my negligence. They sent the part with no questions.


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So I need to explain a bit more about my situation.  I actually have a 1050 that is about 10-15 years old. I got it second hand about 4years ago. Never used it  just did not have room or inclination. Then decided to get started. And had a flood in the basement 5 in of water so the 1050 got some surface rust  I cleaned most of it of. I called Dillon they said it's going to cost 350 to do a complete rebuild.  I think that is fair, but it would be 0 if it was not a 1050. So since I am starting from scratch.  Maybe I should sell the 1050 and get a 650. 

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1 hour ago, 1911vm said:

  Maybe I should sell the 1050 and get a 650. 

 

You can have a 1050 for $300, or a 650 for $700 ....

 

The real important question, as camarros mentioned, is what are you going to do with the reloader?

 

How many calibers?   How many rounds/month?   :) 

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4 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

 

You can have a 1050 for $300, or a 650 for $700 ....

 

The real important question, as camarros mentioned, is what are you going to do with the reloader?

 

How many calibers?   How many rounds/month?   :) 

 That is 300$ additional.  I am not sure what a 1050 sells for. 

9mm 500-1000 / month 

223.  200-500 / month 

.45. 100 / month. Max 

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650 is running fine after some tuning on my mark7. Cannt tell you anything about 1050, but speed is not the point. Warranty does matter, got several replacement parts until now. 

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You do realize that automating the 650 voided your warranty? And you are absolutely correct, speed is not the "only" point... don't forget consistency, reduced processing steps and quality of the finished ammunition.

 

Adjustable primer seating depth and priming on the down stroke are worth the price of admission of a 1050 over a 650 alone IMO.

 

 

Going to start loading. Trying to  decide between the two.  Some say 1050 faster. Others are telling me 650 . Easier to use. Also the big one for me is that the no bs warranty does not apply to 1050.   

 

 

If you have a 1050 that can be rebuilt for $350, by all means your decision has been made - don't even think about buying a 650!

 

Never understood all the drama about 1050's being more difficult to run either. Using and maintaining a 1050 isn't any harder than running a 650 - if anything it's less fiddly because you're not asking the press to do quite as much multi-tasking at each station (think priming here).

 

Setting up spare tool heads is definitely more expensive, but your well ahead in that respect vs buying a new press.

 

M

 

 

 

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Unless your going to load thousands of rounds at a time, including military primed brass go with the 650. Good luck.

Why? In the OP's case, why spend $810 for a 650 with case feeder, when he can have an $1,779 1050 for a meager investment of $350 for rebuilding the 1050 he already owns?

And you are also making a pricing assumption based on volume alone. Volume and primer pocket swaging are not the only reasons to choose a 1050 over a 650. A 1050 inherently cranks out more consistent and more accurate ammunition than a 650 as well.

- Adjustable primer seating depth eliminates seating primers by feel
- priming on the down stroke requires less effort to cycle the machine
- the swaging station expands the case mouth without belling the case providing more consistent neck tension
- dies move to meet rounds rather than the other way around providing more concentric bullet seating and crimping, and
- you pick-up an extra station for a bullet feeder or powder check.

There's nothing wrong with a Dillon 650 - certainly miles ahead of any other 5-stage press out there, but it's not a 1050.

Now the 1050 is hellishly more expensive upfront (as are spare tool heads and caliber changes), but here? In this instance? Geez it would actually cost the OP more money to get less capability.

M


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I hava Hornady LNL AP and startet from scretch with 650 and Mark 7. Took me a view Weeks including new (Rev 2) parts from Dillon, all the after market bearings staff and now I do not use my arm for a press any more. The mashine runs and I do other things. I changed one thing to get the powder cop and a seating and seperate crimping die running. Use the Hornady Powder Dropper on Stage 1, Powder Cop on Stage 2 that stops the Mark, so I have a good feeling of non wrong bullets. With the Mr. Bullet Feeder it is nearly perfect running, but some times the bullets are upside down or do not dropp, but the spilled powder in the basket is not a big deal.

Maintenance is also very easy, I do it after every 100kg deprimed brass, thats all.

Priming is one necessary step before loading until I use the Stage 1 for the Powder Dropper, but I just fill in the 100 primers in the tube with the Hornady 1911 until the mashine needs them.

 

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only one caliber and you already have a 1050? 1050 without hesitation.

 

The 650 is a capable machine, but it excels over the 1050 if you're going to be doing multiple calibers. Only one caliber? the 1050 excels in pumping out one caliber. The 1050's biggest weakness falls to multiple calibers, as it becomes very expensive to run multiple toolheads versus the 650.

 

Even more so if you can get a new 1050 for $300 versus buying a 650. But then there is the question on if you really need a rebuild. I have you gotten it together to see if everything still moves? Some surface rust isn't a huge deal, as long as everything still moves freely and consistently.

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