v1911 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I'm looking to get into reloading .223. I've read a bunch of threads on here and on other sites. I have the reloading components, now I need to get my equipment in line. I'll be reloading on a Dillon 550b. I'll be looking to use 2 tool heads. Tumble brass in walnut to clean. Then lube before proceeding to stage 1. Tool head 1: Station 1: Deprime and swage using a Lee universal decamping die then swage using a Swage-It. Station 2: empty Station 3: Dillon RT 1200 to size and trim Station 4: Lyman M die (loading 55gr FB bullet) Tumble brass in corncob to remove lube then proceed to stage 2. Tool head 2: Station 1: Prime Station 2: Powder Station 3: Seat bullet Station 4: Lee FCD (remove flare from M die) So I have 2 questions regarding my set up. Is there anything I may be overlooking? Is there anything that may be redundant or unnessicary? I don't know what dies to purchase to get the best bang for the buck. I was thinking Dillon carbide 3 die set for .223. Then steel size/trim die for the RT1200. I've already purchased the Swage-it and RT1200. Just need to decide on the dies. Any suggestions and recommendations are greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I use a small base full length die (Dillon carbide) with decapper in station 1 of the processing head set to almost completely size the case, that way the resize is done in 2 steps with the trim die, makes the stroke a bit easier. At the bottom of the stroke, pause for a 2 count to get a good trim. Otherwise looks good... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v1911 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 I suppose it would be pointless of me to buy a carbide 3 die set if I didn't use them. With my initial setup, the only die of the set I was going to use was the seater. If I skip on the Lee decapper and FCD, I could utilize the Dillon dies instead and get more out of the set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 You can get just the sizing die from Dillon, and the crimp die from Lee...or use the Dillon crimp die, it does just a taper crimp without sizing anything like the Lee FCD. I prefer the Dillon crimp on rifle, but use the Lee fcd on pistol. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dauntedfuture Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Your on the right track. You will not be able to swage-it on a 550. You might look at chucking a primer pocket crimp remover cutter in a drill, its fast and easier then swaying a primer pocket. You might consider a rcbs lube die in station 1 or a Redding recapped. The lee recapped is picked as the recapping pin rod is .20, I kept banging brass into it. The Redding unit is tapered and the rcbs unit is smaller as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v1911 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) So on tool head 1: brass cleaned and lubed Station 1:Dillon carbide sizing die/deprime & Swage-it for primer swaging. Not 100% sized as the rt1200 will size and trim. Station 2 or 3: Dillon RT1200 will finish sizing and trim Station 4: Lyman M Die to help with flat base bullets. Tool head 2: brass polished to remove lube Station 1: Lee universal decapper to remove any media in primer flash hole Station 2: powder Station 3: Dillon seater Statikn 4 Dillon crimp. Remove any flare. Would using the Lee to remove media be an issue? Edited January 18, 2017 by v1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Or you could just buy pre-processed brass that has been cleaned, resized, trimmed, and had the primers de-crimped. Then it is just one trip through the press with just one toolhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Chills beat me to it. Purchase a couple thousand pre-processed brass to get you started. Initially it will get you started shooting sooner as well as prove that you have toolhead #2 setup properly. Save your brass and later on get toolhead #1 set up. During the off-season process your brass and set it aside until needed. I keep about 2500 pcs of processed brass on hand so I can load just about anything that tickles my fancy. From my limited experience, different barrels like different recipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v1911 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I shoot a local carbine match that produces plenty of brass for me to work with. I've looked into processed brass, but in the years to come, doing it all myself will be a more cost effective route. Thanks for the suggestion though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dauntedfuture Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 The instructions for the rt1200 and rt1500 specifically say that not to size your brass before using one of them. You need to deprime , then size. There is a debate as to if you need to debur or mdie, I say you need to do something to remove the sharp edge. I would seriously consider buying some prepped brass to get started. Get the trimmer later. This is especially true if your shooting three gun as you will not pick your brass up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v1911 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) I've already got the trimmer in hand so no stopping now. Taking the advice from RiggerJJ, I will partially size with the carbide sizing die in station 1. Then finish sizing with the trimmer. The idea is that it reduces the force needed to resize on either station. As far as the deburring goes, I'm playing it safe and using the M die to help with the flat base bullets. My concern now is what was posted in regards to the Lee universal decapper die. Is there going to be an issue using it to remove media from the flash hole? Edited January 20, 2017 by v1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Shouldn't be any issue using the universal decap die, in fact, its usually recommended after processing and tumbling to clear the primer pocket. (I missed the post advising against it) I've been using one on my loading heads for 223 and 308 for years. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now