Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

DA seems to be dropping early


ArrDave

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, kfd147 said:

Check and make sure the trigger bow spring screw is tight. Reduced or loose spring pressure on the bow will make the d/a pull shorter and short stroke the hammer.

 

Jason

I agree.  The trigger bow spring screw is the first thing to check.  If the screw is tight and you're still having the issue, make sure the trigger bow spring is putting enough upward pressure on the trigger bow to engage the sear, make sure the arms are running in the grooves on the underside of the trigger bow, and make sure the spring isn't contacting anything (like an inserted magazine).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

This is why you do things yourself to guns which aren't 1911s. ;) 

If you have some mechanical talent and some patience, the CZs are fun to work on.  Kneelingatlas has a terrific CZ tuning tutorial in the CZ forum, and there is a whole wealth of information on BE about these delightful machines. 

BE is also tremendously helpful for the 1911/2011s, which is useful is you live where there isn't a "competition-qualified" gunsmith around. (In our area we have a Colorado-trained guy who doesn't really know 1911s, let alone competition guns, and up north a very qualified 1911 gunsmith who doesn't do 2011s.  Shipping both ways is fairly expensive, and wait times can be pretty stiff.  Gotta learn what you can for the daily tuning and problem-solving issues, although more complicated stuff like slide and barrel fitting does take someone with both skill and equipment. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have some mechanical talent and some patience, the CZs are fun to work on.  Kneelingatlas has a terrific CZ tuning tutorial in the CZ forum, and there is a whole wealth of information on BE about these delightful machines. 

BE is also tremendously helpful for the 1911/2011s, which is useful is you live where there isn't a "competition-qualified" gunsmith around. (In our area we have a Colorado-trained guy who doesn't really know 1911s, let alone competition guns, and up north a very qualified 1911 gunsmith who doesn't do 2011s.  Shipping both ways is fairly expensive, and wait times can be pretty stiff.  Gotta learn what you can for the daily tuning and problem-solving issues, although more complicated stuff like slide and barrel fitting does take someone with both skill and equipment. 

 


Not afraid to tear into it, I didn't have the correct screw driver to break the staking on the screw holding the mag catch spring so I farmed it out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ArrDave said:


Not afraid to tear into it, I didn't have the correct screw driver to break the staking on the screw holding the mag catch spring so I farmed it out.

The Tanfos are more fun here:

 You grab the trigger bar plunger with a pair of needle nose pliers, rip it out the top of the frame, and the mag button jumps out the side of the gun (and shoots it's microscopic plunger across the room if you haven't done this before.)

Easier to take apart than a CZ. Not nearly as easy to put back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, MemphisMechanic said:

The Tanfos are more fun here:

 You grab the trigger bar plunger with a pair of needle nose pliers, rip it out the top of the frame, and the mag button jumps out the side of the gun (and shoots it's microscopic plunger across the room if you haven't done this before.)

Easier to take apart than a CZ. Not nearly as easy to put back together.

That reminds me of my one and only experience trying to re-install a Pre-B safety. I'll sell the gun before I try to do that again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very thin blades for the screw driver.  Like the old Browning A5's.  I got mine from Brownell's.  I've been told those screws will sometimes break but old surplus CZ 85's screw came loose (with a pop/crack).

I did notice, when I reinstalled everything that if I screwed the screw down past tight, it turned the spring pretty tightly up against the left side of the frame and then the spring didn't want to move up/down smoothly on the side.  I just very slightly turned the screw back the other way and that arm of the spring came off the frame and moved upwards to be level with the spring arm on the other side.  The screw can be staked down again, if you feel the need.  I just check mine every so often and it has not loosened up yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...