ryridesmotox Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Put the stock plunger in. Then let me know how reset is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 The interesting thing is that with the henning trigger, NO disconnector and the reduced plunger spring the reset was very positive. I added the disconnector and the factory trigger and the reset is barely there. Just strange to me. My bigger concern is really the trigger itself and not the reset. If you're saying I have too much travel then something must not be right. I'm wondering if a new sear or trigger bar is in order. All of this is really to do nothing that will help me shoot better. Sometimes I wonder what's wrong with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Add a dab of axle grease to secure the pin in the bolo while assembling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 I just ordered a new sear. What the heck why not. I can mess around with one and have the other stock. I do think that perhaps there is some additional fitting needed with the BOLO. Reset isn't very positive but really it likely won't affect my shooting just my level of frustration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Have you tried the original plunger spring to see how that works with the reset that you are looking for? I've tried many different combos. The stock (original equipment) plunger spring doesn't increase pull weights much, if at all (with a good polish job). Try the original plunger spring and see how that works with reset. Might shorten it as well since the trigger bar with be held to the disconnector and sear cage with more force. Also, did you use the #37 drill bit to open up the frame during install? If you did, that is where all of that pre travel in single action is coming from... If you did, that sucks, adding tolerance to that part of the system adds pre travel. I really hope you didn't hog out that hole at all, that pretty much puts your frame out of tolerance and ruins the frame Just throwing a bunch of parts in the gun isn't going to make it run right. You need the right combo of springs and parts and they need to be fitted correctly. Edited January 8, 2017 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Have you tried the original plunger spring to see how that works with the reset that you are looking for? I've tried many different combos. The stock (original equipment) plunger spring doesn't increase pull weights much, if at all (with a good polish job). Try the original plunger spring and see how that works with reset. Might shorten it as well since the trigger bar with be held to the disconnector and sear cage with more force. Also, did you use the #37 drill bit to open up the frame during install? If you did, that is where all of that pre travel in single action is coming from... If you did, that sucks, adding tolerance to that part of the system adds pre travel. I really hope you didn't hog out that hole at all, that pretty much puts your frame out of tolerance and ruins the frame Just throwing a bunch of parts in the gun isn't going to make it run right. You need the right combo of springs and parts and they need to be fitted correctly.I tried the original plunger. Slightly better but that wasn't it. The reset is just not very precise. I wonder if it's the trigger bar against the BOLO. I didn't spend any time polishing or cleaning out the slot the BOLO would fit in because I wasn't planning on using a disconnector. I polished all the flats otherwise. I may take a look at that later. I didn't open up any holes in the frame. Not even sure what holes you were referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Underwhere said: I tried the original plunger. Slightly better but that wasn't it. The reset is just not very precise. I wonder if it's the trigger bar against the BOLO. I didn't spend any time polishing or cleaning out the slot the BOLO would fit in because I wasn't planning on using a disconnector. I polished all the flats otherwise. I may take a look at that later. I didn't open up any holes in the frame. Not even sure what holes you were referring to. Good, Henning fits their triggers with a looser pin hole and so the trigger bar frame where the trigger and the bar go together as I recall... Where the trigger attaches... That can be ruined if you try to make it the same size As the Henning hole in their trigger shoe... As far as the reset, it's a combination of how the springs work together. The original plunger spring will net the best results. I don't have your gun to diagnose here in front of me. So I don't know hoe the tolerances have been stacking. These guns vary so much, it's impossible to say one setup will be the same for all of us. Edited January 8, 2017 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Does your trigger stop moving forward the movement it resets? With Tanfos the ability to feel/hear the click is irrelevant to shooting them in USPSA in my experience. The trigger stops. That's where it resets. You come out past there and pull again. Shoot it like you will in a match (bill drills, fast pairs, etc) and paying attention to the way you don't use the click. I went through this with the M&P when switching from the "super click" Glock reset. A local GM convinced me the lack of click wouldn't be a problem with a few short practice drills. We don't actually use it. But everyone on the interent tells you it's important, so surely it must be. Edited January 8, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 The only gun I have where reset is important is my LEM trigger in my p2000. Otherwise... Memphis is right on with that assessment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: Does your trigger stop moving forward the movement it resets? With Tanfos the ability to feel/hear the click is irrelevant to shooting them in USPSA in my experience. The trigger stops. That's where it resets. You come out past there and pull again. Shoot it like you will in a match (bill drills, fast pairs, etc) and paying attention to the way you don't use the click. I went through this with the M&P when switching from the "super click" Glock reset. A local GM convinced me the lack of click wouldn't be a problem with a few short practice drills. We don't actually use it. But everyone on the interent tells you it's important, so surely it must be. I compete with Glocks (used to) so I'm very used to the reset. Typically I pay attention to reset it when shooting strong or weak hand only...but I can learn not to. Thanks for all your help. I'm waiting for the Tanfo trigger and new sear to arrive. I'll toss both in and see whether there is any affect. I believe I will not have a need to use both set screws in the SAO trigger if the BOLO is taking care of the reset for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 So I was thinking about this at work today. If I have my stock trigger and rack my gun (putting it into SA) there is a bunch of takeup in the trigger. (Let's call this Point A) If I press the trigger and work through that takeup, the trigger actually stays there (Let's call this Point B). It doesn't move back. Also if I break the shot and rack the slide and ride the trigger to reset, it stays at Point B. Once the trigger moves to Point B it never goes back to Point A. To me that's some sort of spring or friction issue preventing the trigger from getting to Point B in the first place? Or am I just going nuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 2 minutes ago, Underwhere said: So I was thinking about this at work today. If I have my stock trigger and rack my gun (putting it into SA) there is a bunch of takeup in the trigger. (Let's call this Point A) If I press the trigger and work through that takeup, the trigger actually stays there (Let's call this Point B). It doesn't move back. Also if I break the shot and rack the slide and ride the trigger to reset, it stays at Point B. Once the trigger moves to Point B it never goes back to Point A. To me that's some sort of spring or friction issue preventing the trigger from getting to Point B in the first place? Or am I just going nuts? I'd like to see how ppl diagnose this. Happens to my stock 2 as well. My guess is that it's some sort of slop due to some design issue in the trigger mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 So I got my flat trigger and new one piece sear. I threw them in. It made no difference whatsoever... So yea that was a waste of $110So I tossed the hemming trigger back in with the BOLO and Titan hammer. I fit the safety leg of the sear. I am under 2.5 pounds, sometimes almost at the 2 pound mark depending on where I catch the trigger. Here is the problem. I double checked my firing pin to ensure that it was blocked by the FPB. It no longer works. My guess is that the Titan or BOLO somehow did that so I'll need to order an extended FPB? I have the factory firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) Yes, the Titan means you need the extended fpb. The geometry that messes up the safety relationship also gives less motion for the fpb. Edited January 13, 2017 by johnbu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Yes, the Titan means you need the extended fpb. The geometry that messes up the safety relationship also gives less motion for the fpb.OK thanks for the confirmation. Can I ask a few questions before I place yet another order 1. Does the Titan do anything except have slightly different hooks for less travel? Does it improve ignition? I am sort of at the point of no return because I modified the sear for the safety... But I'm considering the stock hammer and removing the BOLO. 2. Do I need a new firing pin with the extended block? 3. Do I need a new spring with the extended block? I also want to mention that if you buy a Tanfoglio flat trigger it doesn't come with the set screws. That's really annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) The titan moves weight up so it hits harder. it also moved back further in sa so it hits harder. The back further is what messes up the safety timing . The factory firing pin is fine. The PD optimized is better. But not required. The old fpb spring is used. But a spare tiny spring is cheap insurance! And it sounds frustrating about the screws. Edited January 13, 2017 by johnbu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 52 minutes ago, johnbu said: The titan moves weight up so it hits harder. it also moved back further in sa so it hits harder. The back further is what messes up the safety timing . The factory firing pin is fine. The PD optimized is better. But not required. The old fpb spring is used. But a spare tiny spring is cheap insurance! And it sounds frustrating about the screws. Got it. Another order to go. Then I need to find time to put some rounds through it. Thanks for all the help. I feel like I'm almost there (though I felt like that before BOLO and Titan and Flat trigger and new sear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Just remember... no matter how far you go, there you are. Or to paraphrase, Memphismechanic, . At some point you need to step away from the tools and go shoot stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 3 hours ago, johnbu said: Just remember... no matter how far you go, there you are. Or to paraphrase, Memphismechanic, . At some point you need to step away from the tools and go shoot stuff! This is wisdom. I'm repeating myself here, but all the effort I've put in chasing a light trigger hasn't proven as fruitful as I had hoped. Despite the array of support from PD, Henning, etc., you'll always max out potential with power tools. At some point, the tool that really needs training is the trigger finger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 This is wisdom. I'm repeating myself here, but all the effort I've put in chasing a light trigger hasn't proven as fruitful as I had hoped. Despite the array of support from PD, Henning, etc., you'll always max out potential with power tools. At some point, the tool that really needs training is the trigger finger. Agreed. I'm not even someone who cares about having the best trigger in the world. Hell I like my Glock 34 trigger. I'm just caught up in the chase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ok, I have heard conflicting information.Can anyone please measure a known extended firing pin block, and a "normal" firing pin block (or whichever you have).I have a Lim Pro, and heard to has the standard, and also heard to has the extended.With a BOLO, mine doesn't stop the firing pin.... at all.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ok, I have heard conflicting information.Can anyone please measure a known extended firing pin block, and a "normal" firing pin block (or whichever you have).I have a Lim Pro, and heard to has the standard, and also heard to has the extended.With a BOLO, mine doesn't stop the firing pin.... at all.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI put in a BOLO and a Titan hammer. My factory fpb stopped working. I bought the extended and fit it. Now it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I have no Titan.Just want to be sure I am not buying a part I already have.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 I have no Titan.Just want to be sure I am not buying a part I already have.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProThe extended is definitely longer. I literally just fit mine last night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 And yours is a limited Pro correct?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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