Underwhere Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 And yours is a limited Pro correct?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProYup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Sweet! Thanx!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 On 1/13/2017 at 9:48 AM, MissionaryMike said: This is wisdom. I'm repeating myself here, but all the effort I've put in chasing a light trigger hasn't proven as fruitful as I had hoped. Despite the array of support from PD, Henning, etc., you'll always max out potential with power tools. At some point, the tool that really needs training is the trigger finger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 1 hour ago, IronArcher said: Ok, I have heard conflicting information. Can anyone please measure a known extended firing pin block, and a "normal" firing pin block (or whichever you have). I have a Lim Pro, and heard to has the standard, and also heard to has the extended. With a BOLO, mine doesn't stop the firing pin.... at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Here's a pic. My LP with Titan/bolo would not block the fp w/stock fpb. Had to buy an extended one. Dropped right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I happen to have both out of the gun at the moment. Stock = .492" Ext= .507" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ty!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 One more if anyone has one laying around.I found a baggie with a spring in it labeled Henning ultralight trigger plunger spring.... thing is, I don't remember putting it in! (I put the oem parts back in the new bags so I know where they go).Can anyone measure a stock and/or Henning trigger plunger spring?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 So I put about 300 to 400 rounds through the gun today. Had quite a number of light strikes. So I put the 14 pound hammer spring in and removed the 13.I'm running a factory firing pin. Is the extended one necessary? Do I need to buy a new firing pin block if I get the extended firing pin? Also put the stock trigger plunger spring back in. The reset could barely be felt without it. Trigger pull is 2.5 pounds at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 The light plunger springs often let the hammer drop early in DA, so it's possible that you reduced how often you'll have light strikes right there. You won't need to change blocks based on firing pin. That's a factor determined by your sear/hammer combination. My suggestions: Take the firing pin block out entirely. Now that's a non factor. Take it to the range with factory plunger and 14 pound hammer springs installed. If it runs correctly, reinstall your firing pin block. If light strikes come back you've diagnosed it. If it still doesn't run 100% order a heavy firing pin, or switch to a heavier hammer spring. Either the EGD Light, Wolff 14, or wait for PD to release their 15.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 The light plunger springs often let the hammer drop early in DA, so it's possible that you reduced how often you'll have light strikes right there. You won't need to change blocks based on firing pin. That's a factor determined by your sear/hammer combination. My suggestions: Take the firing pin block out entirely. Now that's a non factor. Take it to the range with factory plunger and 14 pound hammer springs installed. If it runs correctly, reinstall your firing pin block. If light strikes come back you've diagnosed it. If it still doesn't run 100% order a heavy firing pin, or switch to a heavier hammer spring. Either the EGD Light, Wolff 14, or wait for PD to release their 15.5Makes sense. Thanks for your suggestions. I did "fit" the Fpb to make sure the firing pin wasn't dragging. Also it was a bit strange but I only noticed light strikes in the first 100 or 200 rounds. So maybe it's a friction thing somewhere that worked itself out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Did you put in the Titan hammer yet?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Did you put in the Titan hammer yet?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProYea. It's rocking the Titan hammer and BOLO. Extended firing pin block with factory firing pin. I used PD's firing pin spring and a 13 pound hammer spring. Then yesterday night I put the 14 pound spring in. Now I just need to find some day to get back to the range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I would put in the PDO firing pin. I'm confident it would help.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP9 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hey, I have one question regarding the safety, I'm getting a lim pro for idap/uspsa. I need to remove the right side safety, do I need to order a single side safety or is there something that can be done without buying a new one? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hey, I have one question regarding the safety, I'm getting a lim pro for idap/uspsa. I need to remove the right side safety, do I need to order a single side safety or is there something that can be done without buying a new one? ThanksI bought a new one. I honestly forget whether you could simply remove one side. It was the first thing I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Just remove the right side lever.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) So just another update: I got a chance to get back to the range with my 14 pound hammer spring. No more light strikes however it seems like the reset issues I was experiencing before (very weak and non-positive reset) is becoming worse. My trigger fails to reset when shooting fast. I actually had to take my trigger finger and help the trigger forward to reset it a number of times. I went home and removed the BOLO and the reset is much much more positive now. I'm now using the pre-travel screw to stop the trigger rather than count on the BOLO. I've definitely been hunting for the perfect trigger and have wasted an extraordinary amount of money on this thing. I've actually built 2 other guns with Cajun Gun Works parts and the triggers are far better than this and with no messing around. They work 100% as soon as the parts were put in. I wish Cajun would make parts for this gun. I'm a little disappointed with Henning on their SAO trigger as well as the Patriot Defense BOLO. This gun is definitely going to take a few more range trips for me to feel comfortable that it's functioning properly. But after all this work, and incredible amount of polishing this is literally the smoothest gun I have ever shot by far. It's very flat shooting with 147gr over titegroup spitting it out at roughly 880fps. I have the trigger at 2.5 pounds....but would gladly trade 1 pound to make it as crisp, fast and reliable as a Cajun setup. Edited February 28, 2017 by Underwhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 You are still running the heavier factory trigger bar (plunger) spring, aren't you? Going light on that spring can cause exactly the issues you're having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 You are still running the heavier factory trigger bar (plunger) spring, aren't you? Going light on that spring can cause exactly the issues you're having.I'm back to the factory plunger spring and was running it when these issues occurred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 The saga continues: I went back to do some more testing. Solved a problem and 3 more came to light. To recap here is what's currently in the gun: Henning single action trigger with the rearmost trigger for shortest reach Stock plunger spring Reduced sear spring Factory one piece long sear Titan Hammer 14 pound hammer spring Extended firing pin block Extended left sided safety 10 pound recoil spring. Problems last time: The trigger would fail to reset. Even after I let go of it it would stay there. I had to push the trigger forward with my finger to reset it. Changes: Here is what I changed from the last time I shot: (Removed BOLO, put pre-travel screw back into the trigger, put the 10# recoil spring into the gun, loaded up a new cartridge with an OAL of 1.070 which is short but is necessary to plunk test successfully in my other CZ's) Problem Solved I no longer had any issues with the trigger resetting. Progess New problems - I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract. I'm short stroking the trigger. The only other gun I've done this in is a Ruger LCR. While testing I was pushing to see how fast I could get the gun to shoot and many times I would sit there pressing trigger only to realize I hadn't let it reset. I'm wondering what's going on here. There is nothing mechanically wrong with the trigger now. I'm wondering if the trigger being so far back (I bought the trigger that sits the farthest back) has any affect on this. Is the timing of the gun off? The only way for me to be sure to cycle is if I slap the trigger which I've really never done before and don't intend on doing now. When I'm shooting with 2 hands, my support hand is constantly depressing the mag release and dropping the damn mag. Do they make a more shallow mag release? Ideas welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 1) extra strength extractor spring 2) where is your right thumb when shooting? You mentioned that it was UNDER the safety correct? Getting it out from under the safety should give your support hand more room to move up.3) Trigger drills:Pull trigger to drop hammer.Keep trigger back and cycle the slideSet timer to go off in 2-4 secondsGrip and aimAt the beep, as fast as you can reset the trigger, pull and drop the hammer.... don't let the sight move.Repeat x10,000 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 5 hours ago, Underwhere said: I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract. Were there 2 UNFIRED rounds attempting to fill the same hole ? Or Was a fired case remaining in the chamber stopping one unfired round from being inserted? The first situation "fix" is to polish the breech face, extractor hook. The CHAMFER the bottom edge of the breech face by 0.050" or so and mirror polish the rib that goes from the breech back. The second situation needs the extractor tuned if it isn't holding tight. And a stronger extractor spring. the extractor hook could also be damaged. Or a few other oddball things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 12 hours ago, IronArcher said: 1) extra strength extractor spring 2) where is your right thumb when shooting? You mentioned that it was UNDER the safety correct? Getting it out from under the safety should give your support hand more room to move up. 3) Trigger drills: Pull trigger to drop hammer. Keep trigger back and cycle the slide Set timer to go off in 2-4 seconds Grip and aim At the beep, as fast as you can reset the trigger, pull and drop the hammer.... don't let the sight move. Repeat x10,000 Ok I'll look into the extra strength spring. Interesting that it's all of a sudden occurring now but I guess the extra strength spring couldn't hurt. My right thumb sits naturally on top of the safety. My support hand just happen to naturally hit the mag release. And yes...noted on the trigger drill. It's just a problem I've never had before. 7 hours ago, johnbu said: Were there 2 UNFIRED rounds attempting to fill the same hole ? Or Was a fired case remaining in the chamber stopping one unfired round from being inserted? The first situation "fix" is to polish the breech face, extractor hook. The CHAMFER the bottom edge of the breech face by 0.050" or so and mirror polish the rib that goes from the breech back. The second situation needs the extractor tuned if it isn't holding tight. And a stronger extractor spring. the extractor hook could also be damaged. Or a few other oddball things. There was a spent case in the chamber with a fresh round jamming up underneath it. I'll check the extractor hook and order a stronger spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Also clean the extractor and area. "Stuff" builds up there in around and behind the extractor from oil and burnt powder. It could be just dirty. But all my guns sport the extra power wolff springs. the factory extractor spring also historically weakens around 10,000 rounds, so it could be that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underwhere Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 Everything seems to be fine now. Extra power extractor spring, PD extended firing pin, new fit extended FPB, an xtreme SAO trigger, and a standard magazine catch instead of th extended limpro catch. Now it seems to be running smooth with no short stroking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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