GregJ Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) A local shop (Immortal Arms) has a package deal on Dillon 1050 Super all set up with MBF and an Ammo Bot, so I put one on layaway. This will be my first Dillon, I've been reloading on a LNL for several years, so it should be fun. This will be set up for 9mm Minor, as I will be shooting that more next year. My elbow is getting older (as is the rest of me), so I wasnt looking forward to cranking out several thousand rounds over the winter. Anyway, looking for suggestions for any additional bits and pieces I should have on hand for the 1050. I have read here that the bearing kit and guide rod upgrade from Level 10 innovations and the swaging Rod from Fast & Friendly Brass are probably good recommendations. I will be using a mixed brass, so I expect I will run into a lot of crimped primers, so a swager is a must. Any others? I have Dillon's DVD on the way, and have watched mulitple videos, so I should be pretty comfortable with it when it arrives. TIA Edited October 13, 2016 by GregJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler2you Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 This simple gadget solved all of the issues I was having with inconsistent primer seating depth: http://www.evergladesammo.com/ega-hold-down-die.html It's the best $20 I've spent in a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Congrats! I got my 1050 a few months ago. It did take me quite a while to get it tuned and running right, but now that it is, it's a true race car. I don't measure my production by the hundreds now, but by the thousands. One of the best resources for the 1050 I found was this short, ten minute video on how to disassemble/reassemble and lube the 1050. Check it out: here Once you get to the point where you're really comfortable with the press, and start pushing your production up higher, you may run in to a problem where the case feed plunger doesn't correctly align the incoming shell with the shell plate. This is supposed to fix that problem, but I haven't installed it yet. I definitely recommend getting (at a minimum) the lower mass shell plate detent ball. You might also consider getting one of the shell plate roller bearing kits, too. Powder jumping out of cases can be a real hassle. The low mass ball and bearing kit will help a lot. Enjoy your new press! Edit: You'll also want to get at least four more primer tubes. The Frankford Arsenal Vibra Prime is a big help, too. It is a very fiddly little thing, but once you get the hang of it, it really makes filling primer tubes so much faster. I have to bend the primer tray on mine in juuuuust the right way in order to get mine to work right. Edited October 13, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 12 minutes ago, tyler2you said: This simple gadget solved all of the issues I was having with inconsistent primer seating depth: http://www.evergladesammo.com/ega-hold-down-die.html It's the best $20 I've spent in a long time. +1! Very nice addition for the 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thanks guys, just what I was looking for. I saw the video on how to lube it, very good video. Keep it coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Just thought of another... Primer pocket go/no go gauges are very useful for setting up your swaging station. There is a very fine line between over swaging (which will leave your pockets too loose to hold a primer) and under swaging (which will result in, at a minimum, smeared primers in unswaged military cases). Setting your swaging station so that the go gauge fits nice and snug into a military case takes out all of the guess work. Don't have a link to one handy, but they're widely available. Edit: and yet another! I don't have a link to it right now (I'm on my laptop), but someone makes a nice little mirror, mounted on a fully articulating arm, that attaches to the top of the case feeder. Really handy way to see how many cases are left in your feeder hopper. Edited October 13, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I highly recommend the spare parts kit for your 1050. +1 on the FA vibra prime. woof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I'd probably run the s1050 without ammobot if possible when you start, the learning curve can be pretty big for some. My first s1050 is still bone stock, other than the MBF that I added recently. I wouldn't start changing parts unless you have a reason, at this point I haven't seen much of a reason to upgrade or swap parts The one exception for me would be a primer catch replacement, I normally size/decap on another press. Moving forward I plan to use an automated s1050 to process brass before it gets reloaded in my second s1050. Keep it simple, and go from there. ~g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Congrats on the nice setup. Here are a few items you should get. Extra primer tubes Spare Parts Kit Indexer Return Spring - 13944. Have at least 1 spare. If it gets pinched and snaps, it puts you out of commission. Spent primer bracket (so you can connect a tube that goes to a bottle etc) Heavy Duty Index Pawl. The standard ones are so weak and will go bad with a autodrive. Heavy Duty Swage Rod. Won't need it yet, but replace the stock one with this when yours goes out. Primer Pocket Swage Gauge I would start without the ammobot and get a feel for the 1050. then add it in when you feel more comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 On 10/14/2016 at 3:18 PM, ams30gts said: I would start without the ammobot and get a feel for the 1050. then add it in when you feel more comfortable. +1! And congrats on the purchase, money very well spent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 On 10/14/2016 at 2:18 PM, ams30gts said: I would start without the ammobot and get a feel for the 1050. then add it in when you feel more comfortable. That was my plan exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thetimb Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) On 10/13/2016 at 10:43 AM, GregJ said: A local shop (Immortal Arms) has a package deal on Dillon 1050 Super all set up with MBF and an Ammo Bot, so I put one on layaway. This will be my first Dillon, I've been reloading on a LNL for several years, so it should be fun. This will be set up for 9mm Minor, as I will be shooting that more next year. My elbow is getting older (as is the rest of me), so I wasnt looking forward to cranking out several thousand rounds over the winter. Anyway, looking for suggestions for any additional bits and pieces I should have on hand for the 1050. I have read here that the bearing kit and guide rod upgrade from Level 10 innovations and the swaging Rod from Fast & Friendly Brass are probably good recommendations. I will be using a mixed brass, so I expect I will run into a lot of crimped primers, so a swager is a must. Any others? I have Dillon's DVD on the way, and have watched mulitple videos, so I should be pretty comfortable with it when it arrives. TIA I just started reloading on a 1050 and I would probably run the machine for several thousand rounds before adding a bullet feeder or anything else. My machine was super finicky at first and I am still working through 1-2 primers not being indexed every 150 rounds. Minus that the machine is consistent and allows me to crank out a lot of rounds in a short amount of time. Edited October 25, 2016 by Thetimb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) 17 hours ago, Thetimb said: My machine was super finicky at first Mine too. 17 hours ago, Thetimb said: I am still working through 1-2 primers not being indexed every 150 rounds. One very important tip: DO NOT thread the Magazine Shield Cap (part number 13957. See the 1050 diagram) on tight! If you do, you will put too much pressure on the blue plastic part on the end of the magazine tube, and you'll have primer feeding problems like crazy. The manual warns you about this, and it's very important I had problems missing primers occasionally, and the above cured it for me. If it doesn't, you'll want to replace the plastic end on the primer magazine tube. They send you an extra one. It's a consumable part. It's a pain to remove the big metal tube that surrounds the primer magazine tube the first couple of times you do it, but gets easy afterwards. On my press, the primer magazine access bolts were screwed in so tight I darn near broke a wrench getting them out. Often, it's difficult to just look at one of those plastic tips and say "yup, it's worn out". Any doubt at all, just replace it. If loosening the Magazine Shield Cap doesn't fix your problem, you have most likely damaged that little plastic tip. Edit: Just read your wording again...do you mean the primer slide doesn't move back and forth? Edited October 25, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thetimb Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 The primer slide was not going all the way back and still had some movement back. I called Dillon and they told me to adjust the the bar that engages the primer slide with the handle down. That solved all of my problems and I ran 400 rounds through the machine with no primer issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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