Phlier Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I spent a couple months researching the 550, 650, and 1050 prior to finally buying my 1050 which I've had now for just over a week. I've watched more youtube videos about Dillon presses than I'd care to admit. The winner: In ten minutes, this guy teaches you how to disassemble, lubricate, and reassemble your 1050. After watching it, you'll feel confident that you can do whatever you need to on your press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeinctown Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 I don't even have a 1050 and I watched that video. very well done indeed and it covers everything in a short amount of time. Should be added to a sticky thread somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonman16 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 The Disassembly/Reassembly is very well done, and handy to refer to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark R Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 I would lower the handle and die plate so the alignment pins are in the lower frame before tightening the die plate bolt. But still a good video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonman16 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 I agree with lowering the toolhead to engage the alignment pins BEFORE TIGHTENING the toolhead bolt. I believe the producer of the video just wanted to go fast and smooth in the video. I've heard some first time disassembly requires a real bit of force to loosen the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) Yeah, I agree with you guys. That's the only flaw in an otherwise very well done video; he didn't lower the handle prior to tightening the head bolt. @moonman16: Yeah, Dillon either has 300 pound gorillas or nerds with impact wrenches tightening all the fasteners on their presses at the factory. Even the dies themselves come so tight that a few of them required convincing with a rubber mallet to loosen. All of the jam nuts on my factory installed dies look like crap now after loosening them. The QA guys at Dillon really should talk to the guys tightening the fasteners. It's quite obvious they aren't using torque wrenches. Edited September 8, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Good video, glad I watched it. I'm ordering my 1050/Mr. B/Ammobot combo with all the fixins this week and that was a good crash course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark R Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 7 minutes ago, RippinSVT said: Good video, glad I watched it. I'm ordering my 1050/Mr. B/Ammobot combo with all the fixins this week and that was a good crash course. If you are going all out, you might take a look at the Mark 7 vs Ammobot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark R Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) 8 minutes ago, RippinSVT said: Good video, glad I watched it. I'm ordering my 1050/Mr. B/Ammobot combo with all the fixins this week and that was a good crash course. Clicked once, posted twice Edited September 12, 2016 by Mark R Clicked once, posted twice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 I considered the Mark 7, it looks like an incredible setup, but it'll bust my budget unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seadog_99 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 I ended up going the less expensive route with the Ammobot. I only load 40 S&W on my 1050 and the Rev 2 Ammobot has proven to be all I need and more. I think you'll like it but I HIGHLY recommend that you run the press by hand for a few thousand and make sure you have all of the kinks worked out. It took me a year and a half to get mine running smoothly enough that I trusted it to automate. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 On 9/8/2016 at 11:13 AM, Phlier said: Yeah, I agree with you guys. That's the only flaw in an otherwise very well done video; he didn't lower the handle prior to tightening the head bolt. @moonman16: Yeah, Dillon either has 300 pound gorillas or nerds with impact wrenches tightening all the fasteners on their presses at the factory. Even the dies themselves come so tight that a few of them required convincing with a rubber mallet to loosen. All of the jam nuts on my factory installed dies look like crap now after loosening them. The QA guys at Dillon really should talk to the guys tightening the fasteners. It's quite obvious they aren't using torque wrenches. You will probably find that it's not a case that Dillon doesn't use torque wrenches but your expectation of what the actual torque values should be is lower. 7/8-14 steel threads for dies on a aluminum tool head have a general max torque value of about 1400-1500 inch pounds (125 ft. lbs) granted that is not necessarily all needed, but remember the 1050 is a commercial grade machine. I personally torque my dies with a torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs and the tool head on the 1050 to 35 ft.lbs using the appropriate socket or adapter. I have never had a die or tool head come loose once all dies a centered and torqued and it takes moderate effort to remove them with a "long" handled box wrench. I use inspectors torque lacquer so that I have an instant visual reference should one actually back out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 What a great video... Been looking for a 1050 lubrication video for quite a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) On 9/12/2016 at 10:16 AM, Boxerglocker said: You will probably find that it's not a case that Dillon doesn't use torque wrenches but your expectation of what the actual torque values should be is lower. 7/8-14 steel threads for dies on a aluminum tool head have a general max torque value of about 1400-1500 inch pounds (125 ft. lbs) granted that is not necessarily all needed, but remember the 1050 is a commercial grade machine. I personally torque my dies with a torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs and the tool head on the 1050 to 35 ft.lbs using the appropriate socket or adapter. I have never had a die or tool head come loose once all dies a centered and torqued and it takes moderate effort to remove them with a "long" handled box wrench. I use inspectors torque lacquer so that I have an instant visual reference should one actually back out. Lacquer.. great idea. I'll have to try that. The toolhead bolt wasn't the fastener I was complaining about, really. I thought it was adequately torqued down. But there's just no reason to torque dies into the tool head to a level that requires a rubber mallet to get them free. IMO, in general, they really overdo the torque on stuff that really doesn't need to be tightened so much. Edit: forgot to mention... several of the dies that came pre-installed on the toolhead were so tight that they left marks in the toolhead where they had actually scored deep scratches into the toolhead itself. Now *that* is excessively tight. Edited September 14, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 8 hours ago, seadog_99 said: I ended up going the less expensive route with the Ammobot. I only load 40 S&W on my 1050 and the Rev 2 Ammobot has proven to be all I need and more. I think you'll like it but I HIGHLY recommend that you run the press by hand for a few thousand and make sure you have all of the kinks worked out. It took me a year and a half to get mine running smoothly enough that I trusted it to automate. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk That's my plan. I'm going to get every subsystem running smoothly first and separately, then I'll add the Ammobot. Hoping I can get her dialed in at around 500-1000 rounds, as I've got about 12,000 to load for the spring season and I don't feel like pulling that handle 12,000 times in a couple months. What upgrades, sensors, etc would you recommend? Any little stuff I should buy in triplicate? One of the reasons I'm buying the Ammobot is because on my ~$4000 budget I can get every single aftermarket doodad available for the 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seadog_99 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I recommend the bearing kit and guide rod upgrade from Level 10 innovations. I also installed the swaging Rod from Fast & Friendly Brass that seemed to help my priming issues. Plus you'll have a spare in the factory swaging Rod in case you break the F&FB one in a pinch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 3 hours ago, seadog_99 said: I recommend the bearing kit and guide rod upgrade from Level 10 innovations. I also installed the swaging Rod from Fast & Friendly Brass that seemed to help my priming issues. Plus you'll have a spare in the factory swaging Rod in case you break the F&FB one in a pinch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk okay cool. I was planning on the guide rod and bearing kit already. Is the pocket check sensor a waste of time? I was gonna add that but won't waste the $160 if don't have to. How about the powder check alarm? That one seemed like a no-brainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark R Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 6 hours ago, RippinSVT said: okay cool. I was planning on the guide rod and bearing kit already. Is the pocket check sensor a waste of time? I was gonna add that but won't waste the $160 if don't have to. How about the powder check alarm? That one seemed like a no-brainer. If you run a powder check die, it will be immediately after the powder drop, then if you run a bullet feeder in the next spot, that only leaves you one left for bullet seat and crimp. I guess it would work if you have a combo seat/crimp die. I don't run a powder check, but I either sit low with a mechanics mirror on the station out of the powder drop (visual powder check) or I sit high on a stool and can see down in the case before a bullet is place on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Finally! I saw this video before I had my 1050 and havent been able to find it again. Couldnt remember what it was called. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 20 hours ago, seadog_99 said: I ended up going the less expensive route with the Ammobot. I only load 40 S&W on my 1050 and the Rev 2 Ammobot has proven to be all I need and more. I think you'll like it but I HIGHLY recommend that you run the press by hand for a few thousand and make sure you have all of the kinks worked out. It took me a year and a half to get mine running smoothly enough that I trusted it to automate. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I was going to suggest this myself. I would be especially concerned tuning the sizing decapping and primer shuttle/seating stationse. Even running manually, If a sucked up primer gets past station one it's a pain in the butt. Only now after my second season with it would I even contemplate running a AmmoBot or other drive unit. Then again, I would personally get a Mr. Bullet feeder first, but my budget and current requirements don't justify it as RippinSVT's does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seadog_99 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I don't have any other sensors but I suppose if you didn't have too many crimped pockets you could run the primer sensor and just process rejected cases separately. This is certainly one of the MkVII advantages, swaging and sensing.I'd mount up the MBF right off of the bat. It was a straightforward setup and let's you watch everything else going on instead of looking at the bullet tray for the next projectile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 12 hours ago, Mark R said: If you run a powder check die, it will be immediately after the powder drop, then if you run a bullet feeder in the next spot, that only leaves you one left for bullet seat and crimp. I guess it would work if you have a combo seat/crimp die. I don't run a powder check, but I either sit low with a mechanics mirror on the station out of the powder drop (visual powder check) or I sit high on a stool and can see down in the case before a bullet is place on top. Excellent, good to know. I think I'll pass on it then. Seating and crimping in two steps is a must for me. Plus, I don't think I've ever missed a charge on the 6-7 progressives I've used, that wasn't my own fault. 9 hours ago, seadog_99 said: I don't have any other sensors but I suppose if you didn't have too many crimped pockets you could run the primer sensor and just process rejected cases separately. This is certainly one of the MkVII advantages, swaging and sensing. I'd mount up the MBF right off of the bat. It was a straightforward setup and let's you watch everything else going on instead of looking at the bullet tray for the next projectile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Great thanks. I think I'll run some processed/roll-sized brass first during the initial automation runs to avoid issues. I was thinking about just setting it up to process 10-15k pieces of 9mm to start, then going back and loading it. Is that dumb? I had a pretty well known shooter, who had several auto 1050's, tell me that he'd never run unprocessed brass through an automated setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seadog_99 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 I know several guys running mixed 9mm that process before they load. I run mixed 40 unprocessed brass when I load and don't have any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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