pistolsmith Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Hi all, Trying to install an Apex hammer in a 929, and noticed that I'll need to fit the sear. The sear is contacting the hammer on rebound, preventing it from popping back above the trigger. I'm not sure if I should reprofile the sear, so that it's round and should slide over the trigger, or if I should stone the bottom so that the dimension is shorter and it slides over that way. I've tried to detail this with my super awesome MSPaint skills, as I'm not sure I'm describing it well. Thoughts / opinions? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistolsmith Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Try the photo again... https://goo.gl/aXgNh4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Maybe the screen name should be AspiringPistolsmith? Kuhnhausens book will tell you all you need to know. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/the-s-w-revolver-a-shop-manual-5th-edition-prod73553.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistolsmith Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Pistol != Revolver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 (edited) You want the forward-most tip of the sear to contact the top of the trigger first. That promotes the correct movement between the mating parts. If the sear first contacts farther back, as with the rounded design, the sear will tend to pivot backward as the trigger is pulled, then pop forward as it reaches a certain angle. In summary, you want to keep the bottom flat and at the original angle, with a small radius on the forward bottom corner. As you shorten the sear, check for 2 things - a smooth transition from the sear to the second stage of the D/A pull, and clearance for the sear to spring forward and reset when the hammer is raised by the rebound slide. The best way to check for smooth transition is to rock the hammer and trigger back and forth without any springs and observe the relationship of the 2 parts as they move together. Edited July 25, 2016 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 ^^^^ What Warren said. There is a good picture on page #50 of (The S&W Revolver A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 This is what I do. I am not a gunsmith. I remove the sear from the hammer. Using a stone, I remove >.001 at a time keeping the angle or profile the same. Lather, rinse, repeat until it fits as designed. That's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 This is what I do. I am not a gunsmith. I remove the sear from the hammer. Using a stone, I remove >.001 at a time keeping the angle or profile the same. Lather, rinse, repeat until it fits as designed. That's it. What he said!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistolsmith Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Perfect, thank you all!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistolsmith Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Worked like a charm, thanks again all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizz0 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 I know this in an old post, but to shorten the sear...are you slowly removing material from the horizontal surface of the sear or the 45 degree slope at rhe bottom of the sear?Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 On 6/14/2017 at 8:29 AM, rizz0 said: I know this in an old post, but to shorten the sear...are you slowly removing material from the horizontal surface of the sear or the 45 degree slope at the bottom of the sear? Bottom of the sear. See illustration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizz0 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Ty, thank you that is exactly what I needed to know I really appreciate You taking the time to help me out Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Delete Edited June 20, 2017 by alecmc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizz0 Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Update....the hammer went in with no modification.It seems like I got a very good gun from the factory. I didn't have any of the typical flaws or fitment issues that some people have with the performance sener 929. My cylinder gap is even and in .My accuracy and barrel are good. My Crane to frame fitment is good. And best-of all the Apex hammer went in without having to stone or modify the sear.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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