nickbfishn Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 So I had a full trigger job done on my 1911 with EGW parts, svi trigger, a Koenig hammer, and a 17lb mainspring. Everything works well and my pull is about 3lbs. However, I noticed a slight bit of creep and I would like to remove it. I don't want my smith to do it because he did my trigger job for free and I don't want to wear out my welcome with him. Therefore, can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing creep in my brand new parts?So far the new trigger has about 250 dry fire and 75 +/- live fire rounds though it. Should I perhaps just shoot it and dry fire it a few hundred more times before I tinker or what? And, I'd also like to get it down to 2lbs to match that of my limited 2011 that has all of the same parts, so any advise here is great too. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I would shoot it a little more to see if the creep improves. If you decide to fix it yourself, get a True Radius jig (or borrow one) and recut the primary surface. Once you have the sear/hammer geometry set up correctly, achieving a 2lb pull is only a matter of adjusting the legs of the sear spring. Here is an article by Jack Weigand. It should help. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
427Cobra Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 You might try a relief cut on the sear, the TR jig is on the list for me to get https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=335508 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) Stop and try to picture where the creep is occurring. Your finger is pressed into the trigger, no creep there. The trigger is pressed into the disconnector, no creep there. The disconnector is pressed into the sear, no creep there. The sear is pressed into the hammer/hammer hooks, no creep there. Okay, now what's left to cause the creep? The creep is being caused by the amount of travel that the sear has to move in order for the sear nose to slide up the hammer hooks to reach the release point. It doesn't matter if you use a traditional primary/secondary finish on the sear or a True Radius finish, the creep will still be there. I'd bet that if you measure the actual depth of the hammer hooks you find them to be .020" or more. If you have access to the correct tools (jig, stones, etc.) you can stone down the hooks .001" and see what the creep is like. 018" tall hooks is the norm. Be VERY aware that unless the sear primary face has been stoned correctly to mate perfectly with the vertical face of the hammer hooks, you may start having other issues, some very dangerous (full auto!). Edited June 13, 2016 by Pat Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickbfishn Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 All great replies. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 I would take it back to the smith, that way he and you can both learn to solve the problem. It would be of great benefit for him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Do you mean pretravel/takeup, or creep that occurs just before sear-hammer letoff? Creep shouldn't be used to refer to the necessary pretravel during which time only the disconnector has been engaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 The 2 lb trigger pull is possible but there are safety issues. One of the best references I've seen is this. You are probably just a bit of tweaking of the sear and disconnector legs of the leaf spring away from your 2-lb trigger pull, but before I tweak them down, I'd inspect hammer/sear/disconnector for proper dimensions and maximal engagement of interface surfaces. The overtravel screw, if any, has to be checked for not being too tight. If the trigger has pretravel adjustment tabs, those have to be checked for allowing enough pretravel for proper reset. Lots to understand unless you're schooled/experienced, but it's not rocket science. You just have to have the right tools, understanding, and take proper care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickbfishn Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 It's true creep, not take up. It travels about 1mm in take up and then a hair more with a slight crackle before it snaps. However, I've since talked to my smith and he actually did this on purpose because he wanted me to put a bunch of rounds trough it and then bring it back to him so he could finish his polishing and bring it down to no creep and 2 lbs pull. He has theories as to why he does them this way and frankly I trust him. He does a lot of trigger work for guys shooting 1000yard rifles as well as pistol sports and everyone agrees he knows his $hit. So, I'm taking it to the range again and out another 100 rounds though it and then taking it back for phase 2. I'll post updates.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickbfishn Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 The missing link here was that my dad was/is the middle man in this whole deal, and the smith told him this, but the message never got to me lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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