Ghost Pro 3.3 vs. Evo Elite ?

[FightFireJay]

I'm setting up a Glock 40 M.O.S. for hunting. Probably either the Vortex Venom or a Burris FF III with 3 MOA dot (because I can get a smokin bargain on both) for the optic.

But the trigger is the real question. I figure I'll do springs and a $.25 trigger job, but the connector itself is the quandary.

I certainly would love to know what the difference in feel is between the Ghost Pro 3.3 and the Ghost Evo Elite. If you've shot both, hook me up!

(also, any advice on who's inexpensive +2 mag extensions to use and should I consider +10% springs?)

Thanks in advance,

Jay

Edited June 2, 2016 by FightFireJay

[taxil343]

I'll be able to let you know a little later this week as I just ordered a Pro 3.3. I've had the Evo Elite for a while now but just had it in a carry gun. Had some rest issues during the match last weekend so I needed a new connector in my production gun. I've always used connectors that gave a very light take up with a defined wall and clean break, basically a 2 stage trigger. When playing around with new connectors the other night it occurred to me that the rolling break of the Evo Elite would lead to a smoother trigger pull at speed and thus should be more accurate. I tested this theory in a match today and I'm sold. I'm hoping the Pro 3.3 will be very similar and noticeably lighter. I'll keep you posted...

[bigtimelarry]

I like the Ghost Edge.. Thats because I dont like stack up to a wall break, I like a rolling smooth break all the way thru.

[taxil343]

After the match today I'm thinking a rolling break is the way to go. For me the change yielded a significant reduction in charlies without placing any extra emphasis on accuracy. As far as the +2s go I'm not sure since they would have to be for large frame Glock mags and I have no experience with that, maybe someone else will chime in. In my experience with the Glock +2s on 17 round 9mm mags, if you want the slide to lock back after the last round you will need +10% springs.

[fatcat]

I like the Ghost Edge.. Thats because I dont like stack up to a wall break, I like a rolling smooth break all the way thru.

These recent Ghost connectors move the break point slightly earlier that stock patterned connectors. The "wall" is still there but barely percieved. My concern is now if the metal leg for the reset that rides will last as it is now thinner. Heard some people had issues ith that part breaking but Ghost should replace it. Anyone had that experince?

[bigtimelarry]

I got my Edge Connectors about 6 month's ago. I have about 15k rounds thru it and it feels the same as day 1.

The Lone Wolf's connectors crack after a while.. I had one crack and know several people that had theirs crack also.

If you want trouble free and dont want to worry about it, put the Minus Connector in.

[FightFireJay]

Great info, guys.

Taxil343, looking forward to hearing your direct comparison between the 2 connectors. I am also thinking that a "rolling break" as you put it, would work well in a hunting handgun where accuracy is most important.

Is the Ghost Edge roughly comparable to a Pro 3.3, but without the over travel stop?

[bigtimelarry]

I like it better. With the Ghost Edge there still is a Wall but it's not as hard as with other connectors. It feels perfect to me and everybody

that try's my gun loves it. I also use a Gen 3 Trigger Bar, Wolff 4.5 striker spring, Wolff RP Safety Spring and Stock Trigger Spring.

Edited June 6, 2016 by bigtimelarry

[taxil343]

The 3.3 arrived in the mail today. Got it installed and all tuned/tweaked to my liking. To me the ONLY discernible difference between the 3.3 and the Evo Elite is the $10 price delta. They both feel equally light and smooth with a consistent rolling/unexpected break. Reset is identical in length, force and quickness. I'm not saying that the 3.3 is no good, just that the Evo Elite is just as good IMO. That being said I am going to leave the 3.3 in the gun, mainly because I just spent $40 on it, in hopes that as it wears in it will get smoother/lighter. If I had known what I know now I would've stuck with the Evo and saved the money and time I invested in the 3.3. Good luck with your decision. I don't think you can go wrong with either one of these for your desired application. Let me know if there's anything else you would like to know.

[FightFireJay]

Taxil343,

Thanks for the input. If they are that close, I may have to flip a coin.

If anything else comes up later, let us know. (one is quicker to install, one makes the trigger sit further forward, one of them makes your butt look bigger, ANYTHING)

[taxil343]

They both took me about an hour to install. I use a dremel to remove material from the trigger control tab on these ghost connectors, and then smooth/polish. After the TCT is at the right length I get the reset where I like it by adjusting the angle of the connector. As far as the install goes it's a wash. I put this connector in a production 34 with a Vanek classic grandmaster kit and I did not have to adjust the pre/overtravel set screws. At half-cock the trigger is in the same spot with either connector and they both break at the same point in the pull, again a wash. Cycling the slide is a shade mother with the Evo in the gun but I'm sure the 3.3 will wear in. If I were you I would get the Evo and spring kit (4.5lb striker spring, rp fps spring and xp trigger return spring) and call it good. You can do this for the same price as the 3.3 alone and it will make much more of a difference in your trigger.

[FightFireJay]

They both took me about an hour to install. I use a dremel to remove material from the trigger control tab on these ghost connectors, and then smooth/polish. After the TCT is at the right length I get the reset where I like it by adjusting the angle of the connector. As far as the install goes it's a wash. I put this connector in a production 34 with a Vanek classic grandmaster kit and I did not have to adjust the pre/overtravel set screws. At half-cock the trigger is in the same spot with either connector and they both break at the same point in the pull, again a wash. Cycling the slide is a shade mother with the Evo in the gun but I'm sure the 3.3 will wear in. If I were you I would get the Evo and spring kit (4.5lb striker spring, rp fps spring and xp trigger return spring) and call it good. You can do this for the same price as the 3.3 alone and it will make much more of a difference in your trigger.

Thank you, again. I have been leaning toward the Evo due to your info. I am starting to wonder if the two trigger connectors would operate different depending on the trigger bar. Since (it appears) that Gen 4 trigger bars have a different angle/curvature where they contact the connector, I wonder if the modified geometry of the Evo was built for it?

Anyway... new info from Ghost. I had an email conversation with Oliver Codorniu at Ghost. He recommends the Pro 3.3 (what he has in HIS Glock 40) but that they are very close. He also recommends a 6lb striker spring (due to heavier striker weight) for reliability, and a Gen 3 Trigger bar (part #004417) due to the Gen4 steeper geometry.

He also recommends AGAINST polishing stock Glock parts...

Glock uses soft metals but coats them to keep them from galling and keep the part radiuses and angles true. Although polishing make the trigger pull feel better it leads to many issues and will make the pistol unreliable.

I would completely stay away from polishing any Glock in efforts to improve anything.

- Oliver Cordoniu

[Polymer]

Glock uses soft metals but coats them to keep them from galling and keep the part radiuses and angles true. Although polishing make the trigger pull feel better it leads to many issues and will make the pistol unreliable.

I would completely stay away from polishing any Glock in efforts to improve anything.

- Oliver Cordoniu

That sounds ridiculous. Soft metal? Try bending one or drilling a hole in one, very difficult. And using a 6 lb striker spring? The factory 5.5 lb is plenty strong enough. We're chasing a lighter pull, no one is going to increase the striker spring weight. I have no idea what the owner is talking about...no wonder why many don't like their products.

Edited June 11, 2016 by Polymer

[FightFireJay]

That sounds ridiculous. Soft metal? Try bending one or drilling a hole in one, very difficult. And using a 6 lb striker spring? The factory 5.5 lb is plenty strong enough. We're chasing a lighter pull, no one is going to increase the striker spring weight. I have no idea what the owner is talking about...no wonder why many don't like their products.

- I think when he says soft, he means in a relative way. Not all stainless is the same. In fact, the stainless that would be used in a press to shape the trigger bars, would be a relatively soft variant. And stainless steel does indeed have issues with galling when rubbing against more stainless. This is something that was an issue with firearms up until a few decades ago, allowing for all stainless revolvers and 1911s, etc.

But just how big of an issue is this? Hard to say. I'd be curious to get feed back from folks with 5k+ rounds in a Glock after they have polished the internals.

- Regarding the striker spring weight, several companies offer a 6 lb striker for carry/duty use, to ensure never having issues with light primer strikes on hard primers. It may not seem like a lot, but a half pound increase is about 9% stronger. The 10mm and .45 ACP Glocks legitimately have a heavier striker, so with the standard 5.5 lb spring, they would be moving slower than a 9mm or .40 S&W striker.

Again, just how big of an issue is this? My father has a Glock 29 and a Glock 20. Neither is new, and I think the Glock 20 is a late Gen 2, but they are also not high round count guns (by the standard of this forum anyway). He has never mentioned any light primer strikes to me. But that is only a single piece of hearsay anecdotal "evidence", lol.

Edited June 12, 2016 by FightFireJay

[taxil343]

I polish the locking block, barrel lugs, leading edge of the barrel hood, frame rails, ejector and all components that make up the fire control group on all of my Glocks. I do this to slick up the action and make them easier to clean. I have far more than 5k rounds through several of mine with polished internals and all are just fine.

[FightFireJay]

...I have far more than 5k rounds through several of mine with polished internals and all are just fine.

That's good enough for me. This will be a hunting and recreational handgun, and probably won't get more than a few thousand over a decade.

[rocket99]

they seem pretty similar to me in my 34

[FightFireJay]

they seem pretty similar to me in my 34

Gen 3 or 4?

[IDescribe]

Last week I installed the EVO Elite in my Gen4 G17. It's a different pistol now -- my only major complaint about the pistol is gone. I can't speak to a compare/contrast to the Pro vs the Elite, but Ghost says they're the same but for 3.3 vs 3.5, and I've read bunches of end-users say they can't tell the difference. It's a couple ounces. Not sure that means much. I was picking between EVO/Pro and the Rocket. EVO vs Pro seemed like a wash.

FYI, my pistol now has zero over travel, and it is less stagy, obviously lighter, and has a shorter stroke and reset. And when you see it said that it eliminates the the bump or glitch, it does, and here is how I would describe it. If a two-stage trigger is a draw to a wall, plus a little extra to climb over or break that wall, and a single stage is a two-stage minus the draw to the wall -- just the wall, then an EVO Elite is a two-stage trigger minus the second stage -- it's just the draw backward. The break isn't crisp or mushy because there is no break. The break is absent. You pull back and at it just falls off a ledge. There's nothing in terms of feel that lets you know the next little bit of travel is going to release the striker. It's nice.

I have changed nothing else in the fire control group, and this trigger is now a very good trigger. I haven't even polished yet. And when I do that (soon), I'm expecting it to get better, and I'm already happy with it. At this time, I have no plans to start swapping springs, except maybe the fpb.

Edited June 23, 2016 by IDescribe

[FightFireJay]

Great info on the Evo, thanks.

[Forrest Halley]

I run the ghost and ghost spring kit in my 10mm. I think the rolling trigger break is where it's at also. The increased trigger spring and the lighter striker spring have given me no issues. 2&change# pull.

Where I'd spend money would be in a fully supported barrel so that I could turn the volume up.

Edited June 25, 2016 by Forrest Halley

[IDescribe]

The internet never forgets. Even when it should.

[FightFireJay]

I run the ghost and ghost spring kit in my 10mm. I think the rolling trigger break is where it's at also. The increased trigger spring and the lighter striker spring have given me no issues. 2&change# pull.

Where I'd spend money would be in a fully supported barrel so that I could turn the volume up.

Which Ghost trigger do you have?

What Gen is your G20?

The internet never forgets. Even when it should.

I assume you mean the "not fully supported" chamber thing? I've seen aftermarket barrels that actually measure out further forward (less support) on the brass than Gen 3/4 barrels.

IMO, what Glock currently has is a LOOSE chamber. If they still had an unsupported issue, then the "bulge" would be much further back on the brass. I understand this was a legitimate issue on Gen 1 Glock 22/23s.

[IDescribe]

The internet never forgets. Even when it should.

I assume you mean the "not fully supported" chamber thing? I've seen aftermarket barrels that actually measure out further forward (less support) on the brass than Gen 3/4 barrels.

IMO, what Glock currently has is a LOOSE chamber. If they still had an unsupported issue, then the "bulge" would be much further back on the brass. I understand this was a legitimate issue on Gen 1 Glock 22/23s.

Correct. And even the language is wrong. When we say the Glock doesn't have a fully supported chamber, that implies that others do, but very few of the modern pistols we deal with are fully supported. If your pistol has a feed ramp, and the chamber end of the barrel drops during cycling to accept the next cartridge, that barrel/chamber is in all likelihood not fully supported. So when someone talks about going to a fully supported barrel, what they're actually talking about is going to a slightly more supported, but still not fully supported barrel.

I like the way you phrased it with "unsupported issue". It's not whether or not the chamber/barrel is fully supported -- it's almost certainly not. It's whether or not there's an issue with it. And Glock took care of that issue some time back.

[Forrest Halley]

I run the ghost and ghost spring kit in my 10mm. I think the rolling trigger break is where it's at also. The increased trigger spring and the lighter striker spring have given me no issues. 2&change# pull.

Where I'd spend money would be in a fully supported barrel so that I could turn the volume up.

Which Ghost trigger do you have?

What Gen is your G20?

Gen 3 29. I use the 4# striker spring and the heavier trigger spring. What ever the disconnect from about a year and a half ago is...is what I use.

The bulge sucks whatever the reason why. The 1911 has much better support and less bulge and better chamber dimensions. I don't think they fixed anything. I believe the chambers are left sloppy for reliability. Any agency is going to use the cases likely just once so why sacrifice reliability to appease the smallest sliver of the market?

Edited June 29, 2016 by Forrest Halley