rootacres Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 OK so I have a stock 2 in 9mm that I have installed the ben stoeger upgrade kit on and I am still having light strike issues occasionally. My understanding is that the extra power firing pin spring has more resistance than the stock firing pin spring. So I currently have the stock firing pin spring installed with the extended firing pin and wolffs 13lb hammer spring. Where else could I gain some help? Or am I doing something wrong? Would a different hammer help me in any way? thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 You could also try trimming one coil at a time from the firing pin spring. I use a wooden pencil with an eraser to test the strength of the firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rootacres Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into. Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 What primers are you using Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rootacres Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 What primers are you using Fiocchi factory brass ammo is where I have had the issues. I will be giving freedom munitions a try here shortly with their 147 gr reman ammo. . By the middle of summer I will be setup for reloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrmblr Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Freedom has been flawless for me in my S2 Xtreme, and it is seriously set up for Federal primers. CCI will ignite 95% of the time since I polished the firing pin channel. I reload all my match ammo, but I will buy Freedom ammo occasionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into. Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities. I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole. One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rootacres Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into. Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities. I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole. One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging. What is the best way to polish inside the FP hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny32182 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Any aftermarket firing pin spring will provide LESS resistance, not more. You want either an eric lightened spring, or to trim the stock one. You do not want an untrimmed stock FP spring and 13lb hammer spring. Also if your kit included the Eric firing pin, all my guns have also needed the extended FP block, and the block fit to the firing pin to keep from dragging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny32182 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 And even then, I still use Federals. I think Fioccis are known to be hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrmblr Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into. Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities. I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole. One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging. What is the best way to polish inside the FP hole? I used 800-grit metal polish with a bore mop on a cleaning rod in my drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 ^same basic idea. Wrap high grit sandpaper around a thin rod and use a drill to slowly spin it. Shouldn't take much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 And even then, I still use Federals. I think Fioccis are known to be hard. Fiocchis have been 100% in my gun with Xtreme Light hammer spring AND Light FP spring. Have not tried a lot of primers, but I got some light strikes with S&B primers so those are harder than Fiocchi. I don't think the primers are the problem, but that the OP is using the stock FP spring together with a light hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 One thing to note is that the FPB can contact the firing pin and cause drag. On the DA guns I've worked on I stoned the FPB "hook" very lightly until there is no contact at all when the sear is fully disengaged from the hammer. Without this the FPB causes drag, and you will get wear on the FPB and the firing pin, as seen on a few threads on here recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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