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Stock 2 Firing Pin? Light Strike Issues


rootacres

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OK so I have a stock 2 in 9mm that I have installed the ben stoeger upgrade kit on and I am still having light strike issues occasionally. My understanding is that the extra power firing pin spring has more resistance than the stock firing pin spring. So I currently have the stock firing pin spring installed with the extended firing pin and wolffs 13lb hammer spring.

Where else could I gain some help? Or am I doing something wrong?

Would a different hammer help me in any way?

thanks guys

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What primers are you using

Fiocchi factory brass ammo is where I have had the issues. I will be giving freedom munitions a try here shortly with their 147 gr reman ammo. . By the middle of summer I will be setup for reloading.

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Freedom has been flawless for me in my S2 Xtreme, and it is seriously set up for Federal primers. CCI will ignite 95% of the time since I polished the firing pin channel. I reload all my match ammo, but I will buy Freedom ammo occasionally.

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Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into.

Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities.

I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole.

One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging.

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Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into.

Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities.

I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole.

One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging.

What is the best way to polish inside the FP hole?

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Any aftermarket firing pin spring will provide LESS resistance, not more. You want either an eric lightened spring, or to trim the stock one. You do not want an untrimmed stock FP spring and 13lb hammer spring.

Also if your kit included the Eric firing pin, all my guns have also needed the extended FP block, and the block fit to the firing pin to keep from dragging.

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Have you polished the gun guts yet? Polish the firing pin and the hole it goes into.

Oh yeah, I have polished everything internally with the exception of the firing pin and fpb cavities.

I'd polish the FP hole and the firing pin block hole.

One test is to launch a new pencil out the barrel (eraser gets hit by FP). Then remove the firing pin block and repeat, the heights should be the same or very close. If not, the block may be dragging.

What is the best way to polish inside the FP hole?

I used 800-grit metal polish with a bore mop on a cleaning rod in my drill.

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And even then, I still use Federals. I think Fioccis are known to be hard.

Fiocchis have been 100% in my gun with Xtreme Light hammer spring AND Light FP spring. Have not tried a lot of primers, but I got some light strikes with S&B primers so those are harder than Fiocchi.

I don't think the primers are the problem, but that the OP is using the stock FP spring together with a light hammer spring.

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One thing to note is that the FPB can contact the firing pin and cause drag. On the DA guns I've worked on I stoned the FPB "hook" very lightly until there is no contact at all when the sear is fully disengaged from the hammer. Without this the FPB causes drag, and you will get wear on the FPB and the firing pin, as seen on a few threads on here recently.

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