Cast vs Fmj load questions?

[rustybayonet]

I seem to get the best info on the dillon section so lets see.

I want to load a fmj round, with a powder that only has cast bullet data. Question: when going from cast to fmj, do I want more power/powder or less.

[GrumpyOne]

More.

[BrianKr]

Well, yes, more, but your pressure might be greater so more might not be best. It all depends what powder you're using.

Since the core is swaged into the jacket (it's not plated, correct?), it's soft lead, so I would compare load data to other jacketed bullets of the same weight. Understand that bearing surface will also affect things so be sure to start low and work up. Plated bullets would be slightly different and more like cast especially if the plating isn't heavy plate.

Since few of us have pressure barrels a chronograph is our best friend and they aren't terribly expensive. They're certainly less expensive than a handgun and a trip to the emergency room. You can use data that you have and it compare it to your velocity. Just be aware that it's not a true reading of pressure, but it is an indicator.

Unless you are shooting loads that are about to destroy your handgun, and are at or beyond proof load pressures, there are no pressure signs that can be read with primers and brass in semi-auto handguns that I would trust.

[Dirty Rod]

Misunderstood the question. Ignore.

Edited March 15, 2016 by Dirty Rod

[frag316]

You should be able to start with cast data and work up to determine the safe load for FMJ. Start with the lowest load and work your way up, checking for pressure signs until you either get signs or you reach the desired effects.

Do not do that in reverse, by the way--you should not use FMJ data to determine safe loads for a cast bullet.

[rustybayonet]

I knew I would find an answer here. Smart people buy a dillon I am loading .308 with 2400, lyman 49 has a load for cast, but all I have are fmj. Being I am a poor fellow, I use what I have on hand when ever possible, so I will keep it in the cast range and see how it goes. I like to stay with my old military standards and want to hit a 2'x2' target at 500 meters.

Edited March 14, 2016 by rustybayonet

[Brenden]

you're looking for data for a rifle, using magnum pistol powder. The cast bullet guys do that for powder puff loads, I think you should look at a different powder.

[rustybayonet]

you're looking for data for a rifle, using magnum pistol powder. The cast bullet guys do that for powder puff loads, I think you should look at a different powder.

This is my first batch of rifle rounds, and my wheel gun is gone, so Im just using up my last lb. of powder. I hate letting anything go to waste.

[Miranda]

... do you buy fertilizer?

smokeless powder is a pretty good plant food.

I tend to want to use powder to make ammo so I do understand.

for me, tossing a pound of powder into the trash is

something I'd avoid out of concern about the odd dumpster-diver.

... trade it?

miranda

[rustybayonet]

Hold my beer and watch this... I have found out, I need to lower my standards and hope for the 100m target. And the old jewish reworked K98 is designed with evacuation ports to protect against over charge, in case they mixed some MG ammo in the stripper clips.

[BrianKr]

Yikes! It's only powder and it's inexpensive, everything considered.

It makes for a spectacular 4th of July fire plume if you don't want to use it on the grass or the garden. The last pound of powder I burned this way, on a boulder in the middle of a field, yielded a fire "geyser" at least 15' tall and lasted for maybe 5 seconds. It was rifle powder from the year 190x and was definitely degraded.

Or why not hold onto it? You might find a use, or just trade it as miranda suggested.

I'd rather not see you or your rifle hurt.