lucas Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 The Wilson Bullet Proof slide stop, I attempted to use, locks up the slide some what. You have to pull hard for the slide to open. On the top of the section where the lower portion contacts the follower may be hitting something. Does this sound plausible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 If I understood the post correctly, it is harder to rack the slide with the new slide stop? If that is true, measure the pin on the old slide stop and the new slide stop, I'm betting the old one has grooves worn it it, or is slightly smaller than the new one. If the slide is hard to pull all the way back then the slide stop might be contacting the slide, when there is no mag in the pistol, you want .005-.01 or so clearance between the top of the slide stop and the bottom of the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 +1. The Wilson BPs I've measured all had .200" pins. The extra .001" on the diameter is there to accommodate for wear on the bottom lugs. Take the recoil spring out. Mark the bottom of the lugs with a magic marker. Reassemble and cycle by hand a dozen times. Disassemble and examine the bottom lugs. If the marker has been rubbed off of the flat and the curved section at the rear, I don't think I'd touch it. If the marking is off the top part of the lead-in ramp, you have a little barrel bump. In that case, removing a slight bit of material from the ramp section where it is shiny will cure that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I called Wilson. I was told the bullet proof slide stops were made to lock up tight and unless shooting it a little doesn't free it up ,I may have to file a little the link hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 No you don't file the link hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 If the marking is off the top part of the lead-in ramp, Please, explain? If he did not blue this area, only the barrel lug area, how would you know? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 kimber.., I told him to mark the bottom lugs and see where the markings had worn off. If you turn the barrel over and examine the bottom lugs you'll see there is a ramped lead in area with a large radius that leads to the flat part of the lug. If everything is fit properly, the marking would be removed from the very top of the lead in radius, the flat and the curved section behind the flat. If the marking has been worn off the lead in radius and only a little bit off the flat, etc., you have barrel bump. The slide stop pin hits the ramp/radius and the barrel jumps up over it into position. If that is the case, you reprofile the ramp/radius to eliminate the bump. Since the only thing the OP did was replace a slide stop, he wouldn't have to remove more than a couple of thou to cure the bump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Yes, know I understand and now I can visilize what your saying. Thank you, that makes perfect sense. Ideally, you would want the rubbing only on the flat part of the lugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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