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Found 6 results

  1. Had a round jam in my 10/22 this week on a stage in a monthly SCSA match... The bullet lodged in the magazine and seemed to be jammed against the magazine's feed lip... wouldn't eject... when I removed the round it had a semi-circular notch in the top of the bullet. It's a standard Ruger clear 10 round rotary magazine... I've cleaned and shot it previously and it worked fine... After looking at the magazine I noticed that the metal feed lips are pretty rough... Wonder if it would help to polish the ramp surface with some fine sandpaper? Also wondering about the TandemKross nylon feed lips... Would they be smoother than the metal feed lips? Worthwhile upgrade?
  2. Hi, Is there a difference in lightening the carrier vs. the buffer? I mean if the total weight is the same. I have a low mass carrier but the buffer is a standard weight carbine with all the weights still in there. Should I take out some of them? If so, how many? And should they be swapped out with something else? Delrin? Happy for all tips and tricks.
  3. I just bought a Gold Custom for my first foray into the Open division of USPSA. I've been reading that the extractor my have trouble with the rimless "super comp" brass that I bought. I've read Henning's tuning page, however Eric G says "I actually use the rimless brass from Armscor which fits perfectly the Tanfoglio with a 9mm extractor powered with a Wolff extra power extractor spring". Has anyone tried this option over removing metal?
  4. The Wilson Bullet Proof slide stop, I attempted to use, locks up the slide some what. You have to pull hard for the slide to open. On the top of the section where the lower portion contacts the follower may be hitting something. Does this sound plausible?
  5. For those who are interested, I just posted the follow up to my JP build with pics over here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=213358 I was able to get the gas system tuned up nicely, and have the operating window functioning flawlessly with three different factory loads in 55 gr. Oddly, when I tighten the set screw to lock in the valve screw, the bolt fails to lock on an empty mag. When I back the set screw out a half turn, it goes back to perfect function. According to a phone call I made to JP during my build process, the carbon buildup locks the valve screw in place on the JP adjustable gas block, and that JP only recently added the set screw in response to the onslaught of questions they received about the design. Supposedly, they had adjustable blocks without the set screw for years that functioned well. I plan to give them a call Monday to ask about the set screw, but currently I am just curious if anyone has seen similar issues? I am perfectly content to run the rifle in its current setting and let the carbon lock the valve screw in, keeping the set screw backed off slightly, but I am definitely curious about it. Thanks, Al
  6. I have been reading quite a bit on adjustable gas systems and light weight bolts, buffers etc. The most common method of adjusting the gas block is to turn it up in small increments until the bolt holds open on the last round, then add anywhere from 1/4 to half a turn for reliability. Last night i was reading an article by a 3 gunner on the pro series and he mentioned that he would like to tune the gas system without the comp installed, then install the comp and tune it. What is the reason for this? What would you look for in tuning the gas system without the comp installed?
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