P.E. Kelley Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 IMG_20151212_094947.jpgIMG_20151212_095040.jpg Thank you for the photo...you sir have some BIG mitts! You may not be able to stop this issue as you are truly blocking the ejection port. Playing with recoil spring should help,,,but will change how the gun feels. Hopefully not worse! The HIGH grip mods under the trigger guard did not help the issue either. I have given up on any 1911 with ejection ports lowered TOO much, While I have been able to spring-them to reduce the issue I could not eliminate it. You MIGHT try to lower the ejector so it hits the case head lower and drives the case in a higher trajectory...then it might hit you in the face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 I've got a couple of ejector housings leftover from installing zev trigger kits to experiment with. Hopefully I can get it to match the ejection pattern of my 19. Or just start using my g20 for everything. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Broke down the 17 and 19 to do some comparisons and noticed this. G17 extractor on left is marked 1895, g19 extractor on right is unmarked. Edited December 12, 2015 by bstocker1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Swap them and see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NFLcavediver Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 I'm a lefty I'm glad I don't grip that high, I mess my hands up enough at work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerdug Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Change your grip, it ain't the guns fault. Based on the photos. Are you getting snake bit, by the slide too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 I don't get slide bite. That's as low as my thumb can get once my support hand is on the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Relative to the post of "tuning a Glock extractor using a set screw" to create more applied force to the extractor by compressing the spring. The ID of the bore is 4mm (.1575"). So the closet tap drill size to that is # 25 (.1495") for a 10-24 thread with a major diameter of .1900" without having to exceed the existing bore diameter. 10-32 would work also, same major diameter, but would require a # 21 (.159") tap drill. For either thread pitch, the "Tennifer" still has to be removed before taping. Tennifer is, of course, just another name for case hardening, similar to "Melonite" Both are salt bath nitriding, a very common process for steel surface treatments which produces a very hard surface and is corrosion resistant. This is not a process to use at home because it involves sodium cyanide and potassium cyanide running at about 1,100 digrees F. However this hard coating must be removed before running a tap, otherwise you will damage your tap, not especially a big deal, but you could break the tap off in the bore and that is a big deal. We have a minimum charge of $135 to burn a tap out. So that still leaves the problem of removing the “Tennifer” from a rather small bore, unlike abrading it off the flats of the slide. I’m not familiar with chemical processes to remove case hardening, but it looks a .125” dowel rod and steel wool should do it. Ok, after taping the bore and selecting a useable length set screw, you want at least 5 threads so for a 24 pitch that’s about .200” so I would use a .25” long. Of course some of the coil springs are going to have to be ground off to fit correctly because the set is much longer than the OEM spring loaded bearing. Then you are going to have to try shooting several rounds and see if that fixes the ejection pattern and the cover plate would have to be removed to turn the set screw. Now here is the problem I see, even if this fix corrects the ejection pattern, there is nothing to hold the set screw in place. It does not have a positive stop. So the constant cycling impact of the slide will back the screw out until it hits the cover plate and you will be right back where you started. I think a far better option would be to procure a longer depressor plunger spring and start grinding coils to get there, and since it’s a compression spring, you could use 2 OEM springs together. Beyond that I would be much more inclined to lathe up a new bearing out of Delrin, about 1mm longer, and just file it down until you get a satisfactory ejection pattern. The tolerance on the bearing is all clearance so it’s a 5 minute job. All this assumes that a greater compression spring force applied to the extractor will actually yield good results. Sounds to me like the Apex is a far simpler fix for the Gen4’s (according to GlockTalk results). Kinda of pricy but then it is machined from solid stock and it looks like the geometry is slightly different that the OEM. Our shop couldn’t make those for $56 retail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 It's like a Christmas ham with a little bit of barrel sticking out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 (edited) Relative to the post of "tuning a Glock extractor using a set screw" to create more applied force to the extractor by compressing the spring. The ID of the bore is 4mm (.1575"). So the closet tap drill size to that is # 25 (.1495") for a 10-24 thread with a major diameter of .1900" without having to exceed the existing bore diameter. 10-32 would work also, same major diameter, but would require a # 21 (.159") tap drill. For either thread pitch, the "Tennifer" still has to be removed before taping. Tennifer is, of course, just another name for case hardening, similar to "Melonite" Both are salt bath nitriding, a very common process for steel surface treatments which produces a very hard surface and is corrosion resistant. This is not a process to use at home because it involves sodium cyanide and potassium cyanide running at about 1,100 digrees F. However this hard coating must be removed before running a tap, otherwise you will damage your tap, not especially a big deal, but you could break the tap off in the bore and that is a big deal. We have a minimum charge of $135 to burn a tap out. So that still leaves the problem of removing the Tennifer from a rather small bore, unlike abrading it off the flats of the slide. Im not familiar with chemical processes to remove case hardening, but it looks a .125 dowel rod and steel wool should do it. Ok, after taping the bore and selecting a useable length set screw, you want at least 5 threads so for a 24 pitch thats about .200 so I would use a .25 long. Of course some of the coil springs are going to have to be ground off to fit correctly because the set is much longer than the OEM spring loaded bearing. Then you are going to have to try shooting several rounds and see if that fixes the ejection pattern and the cover plate would have to be removed to turn the set screw. Now here is the problem I see, even if this fix corrects the ejection pattern, there is nothing to hold the set screw in place. It does not have a positive stop. So the constant cycling impact of the slide will back the screw out until it hits the cover plate and you will be right back where you started. I think a far better option would be to procure a longer depressor plunger spring and start grinding coils to get there, and since its a compression spring, you could use 2 OEM springs together. Beyond that I would be much more inclined to lathe up a new bearing out of Delrin, about 1mm longer, and just file it down until you get a satisfactory ejection pattern. The tolerance on the bearing is all clearance so its a 5 minute job. All this assumes that a greater compression spring force applied to the extractor will actually yield good results. Sounds to me like the Apex is a far simpler fix for the Gen4s (according to GlockTalk results). Kinda of pricy but then it is machined from solid stock and it looks like the geometry is slightly different that the OEM. Our shop couldnt make those for $56 retail. Along those lines the H.R.E.D. from white sound defense might be worth a try. Edited December 13, 2015 by bstocker1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 bstocker, isn't it cool how all these aftermarket guys are always coming up with new fixes and cashing in with new gizmos while Glock has no clue, or doesn't care so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarosean Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 It's like a Christmas ham with a little bit of barrel sticking out. Yeah I would say you need to find a bigger gun. Maybe something like a CZ TS where the ejection port is smaller and more out of your way. bstocker, isn't it cool how all these aftermarket guys are always coming up with new fixes and cashing in with new gizmos while Glock has no clue, or doesn't care so much. Why would they care? They make a mint selling mediocrity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 (edited) It might be a visual impression, but stronger ammo ejects more upwards with Glock. Brass of the weak ammo that barely makes Minor PF are lazily fall on the side. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Changing extraction pattern might be because of the change in grip. I did some experiments with weak factory ammo and Glock - just a tiny bit of less support from the hand, far from being limp hand, results in a different extraction patterns and stovepipes. Having said all that, I'm Glock 19 Gen 4 leftie owner, but a shoot Glock a lot less than I shoot Tanfoglio. My grip is below, no problems so far. You may like CZ Tactical Sports, as already mentioned, and also Arsenal Firearms Strike One. There is also pretty lot of metal in TS to tune grip to your taste with a file. Edited December 14, 2015 by arkadi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 (edited) What was I thinking? You have to indicate center of the 4mm bore and then end mill near the half moon cut of the slide with before you can run the tap in, otherwise the tap could walk off center. Edited December 15, 2015 by 9x45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hceuterpe Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Wow those are some beefy fingers. I must have skinny phalanges and short thumbs, as I don't use the backstrap at all (I actually switched from the 92, as it's frankly too wide of a grip for me). On my 34, I would have to stick my thumb completely out very intentionally, to block the port with the slide locked. Not very shootable this way. What about something like a hogue grip? My hunch is that would both make the grip wider, and longer, too... And yes, even with a recent Gen4 34 (mine was manufactured in April 2015 according to the spent case included in the package), with pee shooter loads, I'm quite good at catching casings with my right arm If you can't really largen the grip, I suppose you can try this suggestion from Jerry (22:59)? (22:59)But don't do this at 22:31. Edited December 24, 2015 by hceuterpe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bafsu92 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) I had the same problem, lefty with big hands and high grip and this fixed it for me: http://cpwsa.com/products/white-sound-defense-hred Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 10, 2016 by bafsu92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthoefer Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Broke down the 17 and 19 to do some comparisons and noticed this. G17 extractor on left is marked 1895, g19 extractor on right is unmarked. It's the same part, just marked differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Ordered a couple of the white sound defense H.R.E.D. extractor spring assemblies. Also going to do a d.i.y. silicon carbide grip texture job. I'm going to build up a few layers with j.b. weld first to match the G20 grip dimensions. Hopefully this will help alleviate some of the crowding issues I have. One of the other problems with small frame guns is the tip of my trigger finger drags on the top edge of my support hand. The g20 grip is just a better fit for my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstocker1 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Ejection issues solved ! Have been experimenting with different parts and now have a setup that ejects all brass up and over my thumb into a consistent pile at about 3:30-4:00. First thing I tried was the white sound defense extractor plunger and spring. No success. Ejection was just as inconsistent and anaemic as stock, some brass hitting thumb, some ejecting straight up and landing back on top of the gun. Had 3-4 inline stovepipes in a 200 round range session. Next up was the apex failure resistant extractor. This part solved 99% of the problem. Super consistent ejection pattern. Lastly I removed the "large" non beavertail backstrap and installed the magloc beavertail with thumbrests. This did a few things. The thumb rests, combined with how it wraps up and around the sides a bit, pushes my thumb out away from the slide a few mm. Hand sits just as high as before for good recoil control, but gives a little more clearance at the ejection port. The added girth and trigger reach positions the trigger nicely in the center of the pad. Perfect straight to the rear trigger presses seem to come more naturally now. One range practice session and a three gun match so far with this setup and zero issues. Hooray ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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