JonSnow Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Hi all, My mill is on the way and I'm planning out my first couple of projects; one of which is going to be building a 6" sight tracker. I really want the barrel rib to blend into the top of the slide. To do so I imagine I will need to do some machining of the rib in the slide. Does anyone have any advice for how to hold everything together while doing that? Can I modify the Yavapai slide jig to hold the barrel up into the upper lugs? Anyone ever do that before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) I made a small lock up jig out of round bar and a set screw. I fond some steel round bar about the same diameter as the spring tunnel and about 2/3 the length of the barrell, drilled and tapped a hole at one end then I bent a penny for something the screw could push on. Put the barrel in the slide put the rod in the tunnel screw at the lug end, put the penny on the barrel and tightened the screw. It applies upward pressure to seat the barrel into the lugs. Then vise, indicate and machine. I will try to take a pic of my setup. There may be a better way but that is how I do it. Edited October 8, 2015 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb06 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I would assume you would want to do this after the barrel has been fitted as if you are blending it to the slide doing prior to fitting you may end up with not nice looking fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Get the slide/frame fit done and fit the barrel. Install the recoil system and then you can put the whole assembly into the vise assuming the barrel fit is nice and tight. No need for an elaborate fixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonSnow Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) That makes sense. Next question: when flat or tri-topping a slide, do you cut it parallel with the top or bottom of the slide? If you do it parallel to the top, do you use parallels and shims in the vise to get there or is there a better way? Edited October 8, 2015 by JonSnow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Matt is a monster and I would give his technique a try but I would hardly call my little bar and screw an "elaborate" fixture. And my way does not need to have the whole gun together and in the vise but I also only have a little and very humble mill. Matt, on the other hand, has the best CNC money can buy. I will leave the thread to him... Edited October 8, 2015 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay870 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Matt is a monster and I would give his technique a try but I would hardly call my little bar and screw an "elaborate" fixture. And my way does not need to have the whole gun together and in the vise but I also only have a little and very humble mill. Matt, on the other hand, has the best CNC money can buy. I will leave the thread to him... I think any time a setup includes a bent penny it is de-facto elaborate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) <sarcasm> Yeah well the penny is really what makes the whole jig. I mean without it what's the point...</sarcasm> Edited October 9, 2015 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 OG's tool sounds pretty similar to this tool, which I've had for probably 15-20 years. Think I got it from John Nowlin, but not sure who made it or if it's still available. The hook part goes between the barrel lugs where the link swings. After the barrel hood is fit, you put this in place, use a Cherry Corner alingment block to square the barrel, then tighten the set screw to lock the barrel up in the slide. It was intended to hold the barrel in place while you cut the lower lugs with a Wilson cutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <sarcasm> Yeah well the penny is really what makes the whole jig. I mean without it what's the point...</sarcasm> a penny jigged is a penny earned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msg73 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I made a small lock up jig out of round bar and a set screw. I fond some steel round bar about the same diameter as the spring tunnel and about 2/3 the length of the barrell, drilled and tapped a hole at one end then I bent a penny for something the screw could push on. Put the barrel in the slide put the rod in the tunnel screw at the lug end, put the penny on the barrel and tightened the screw. It applies upward pressure to seat the barrel into the lugs. Then vise, indicate and machine. I will try to take a pic of my setup. There may be a better way but that is how I do it. Same here. I used 1/2" aluminum bar, cut it to length (~5" or so) and drilled/tapped it for the screw to push up on the barrel. The penny is used so you don't scratch up the bottom of the barrel. It's basically the 1911 barrel holder in the following Brownell's kit: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-fitting-tools/1911-auto-lug-fitting-kit-prod18787.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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