kneelingatlas Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) I bought some old school Tanfo parts on eBay once and the sear set came with this guide, I though I would share, see the new images below. Edited September 9, 2015 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 too awesome. This has convinced me to weld up my sear block and fit it properly. I always felt the last 2mm of travel in my trigger (out of a total 4-5mm) is due to the block walking a bit. With a tight fitted sear block I think it will be a much shorter and more consistent trigger. And that particularly sear block is one of the tightest ones I've played with in various model tanfogs. my stock 2 for instance was a bit looser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind bat Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 A buddy of mine has a (formerly) open 9x21 small frame blaster built by Kevin Toothman. The sear cage is welded just like in the instructions. The slide rails were also welded a little bit in the center and at the ends. It also had some pretty trick parts like a roller tipped trigger bar plunger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I take it that this is for through hardened sears? Wouldn't you get yourself in trouble with a case hardened one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I don't know much about hardening steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 The tanfog Sears are surface hardened but the surfaces they are talking about don't really wear. Only the blade has reall pressure on it from the hammer. Egw Sears are made of good quality tool steel and heat treated so are fine to grind on anywhere including the blade. But any work cutting the primary or relief faces on the blade needs to be done on a jig. It just can't be done freehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrtyWood Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Nice info, I'll be printing this and keeping, Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I'd like to print it too. Do you have it in an individual file you could link us to or post? Or should we just print it post by post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Here are the 8 1/2" x 11" scans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stician Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrtyWood Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eern Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 This is very helpful. I did an EGW sear for my limited with the trial and error approach. Got it done with one sear, but it was incredibly annoying to take it apart, put it together, function test, and then do it another 12 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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